[reflog]

This is supposed to be an original 327/350 camshaft. Since so many companies are having problems with cams would it be worth it to purchase an old technology camshaft and use it in a rebuild? I have a 350 4 bolt that I want to put into my 32 later and I think that this would be a very nice cam to run. Any thoughts on this and what does everyone think this cam is worth if you were buying it?

Steve

[ericnova72]

The "151" cam has been used in more engines than probably any other cam, ever. You are right it isn't the latest, most modern thing, but it is pretty trouble free and will work fine. Maybe if funding is there through some 1.6 rockers on to bump the lift another .030" or so. If this cam is used, stay away from it, it is too big a risk for failure, and you can buy this grind from almost anywhere (Elgin and Sealed Power/Speed-Pro come to mind) pretty cheap.

Elgin #E903 (GM#3863151) $54.95 w/lifters $89.95 from Competition Products in Oshkosh, Wisconsin. Very good to deal with, big in the budget circle track world, one of my go to sources. Get new springs while you are there too, good prices, #98214 is the Z28 spring $27.95. www.competitionproducts.com

Northern Auto Parts in Souix City,Iowa has Speed-Pro #cs179r GM3863151 "Blueprint" cam.

[reflog]

"If this cam is used, stay away from it, it is too big a risk for failure, and you can buy this grind from almost anywhere (Elgin and Sealed Power/Speed-Pro come to mind) pretty cheap."


What did you mean by this comment???

Steve

[ericnova72]

I guess I thought from your post that you had found an old original "151" cam that had been run in another engine and was used. Using a used cam in a different engine than it was originally broken-in is a recipe for failure as no two blocks are exactly the same on lifter bore positioning and machining tolerances. "Grind" is a slang term for camshaft specifications.

If it is new or new old stock disregard what I said, I read the question wrong.

[reflog]

No!!! It is a new unit still in the factory packaging. Some of the guys on the Corvette Forum indicate that they have been having trouble with the new camshafts from Crane, etc. during break-in. They claim that the cams are only running a short period of time before they start to flatten the lobes. They claim it is from inferior casting and hardening. I thought that with an OEM cam produced back in the 60's/70's I wouldn't have to worry about that and I could break it in just like was recommended back then. Any idea what the cam alone may be worth???

Steve

[ericnova72]

Like I said, the cams can be bought new pretty cheap, and the cores and hardening are no different than they ever were. What is different, however, is the formulation for today's motor oils. They have taken out all the high pressure "sliding component" wear additives (zinc, phosphorus, and sulfur compounds) out due to the fact that they pollute the catalytic converters on newer cars, and the new cars don't need this additive because they all have roller lifters now. People who don't know better blame the camshaft maker for an inferior product, but it isn't their fault.

Do a search on camshaft break-in and motor oils and you will find 1000's of post on this, it is becoming well documented.

[reflog]

Thanks Eric,

I know the oil is different from the old stuff. I have had to change my oil brands and weights in both cars now. Most everyone on the CF say they use the normal break-in set up with the recommended break-in oil and then add either Shell Rotella or another oil with the ZDDP additive. But they say that there isn't enough additive in either one to protect the engine sufficiently. I am not so sure. I use the Shell oil in my 32 now. It seems OK. I have been using Valvoline 20/50 Racing oil in the 66 for a period of time now. Both engines are older in that the engine in the 32 has never been rebuilt and the 66 was rebuilt in 1979. Everything seems to be OK with both engines now running what I do run.

Will put this one to bed now. I thank you for your advice. I won't worry about it any longer. Will just make sure I break it in the correct way and use the correct additives/oils when I decide to re-do it.

Steve