SBC Cooling ?? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2012, 10:12 PM
Greg T's Avatar
www.krusinklassics.net
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Escanaba, MI.
Age: 60
Posts: 1,075
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 32 Times in 27 Posts
SBC Cooling ??

Got a 388 that runs great and doesn't really overheat, but it has an electric water pump that kinda worries me. I've got a 180* stat in there now but the electric fan control turns on at 200 and off at about 180*. So, usually, once it turns on it never shuts off. I was thinking I may go to a 160 engine stat and change the fan control to a unit that is on at 185* and off at 170*. That way while cruising faster than 30mph or so the fans will be off. I know this means my temp will cycle between 185 and 170 at low speeds, so would this 15* temp cycle cause any problems?

I'm also wanting to go with a high flow stat because the electric pump is always at the same flow. When i run on the dyno or make a good hard road pull the temp rises quickly and takes a bit to come down.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2012, 01:02 AM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,182
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 2
Thanked 292 Times in 289 Posts
The electric water pump was never designed or intended for a street car.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2012, 03:46 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 50 Ply wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pottstown,Pa
Posts: 571
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 20 Times in 20 Posts
Here's something to remember for all car guys who watch the temp gauge more than they watch the road:
Most all temperature sensors for the gauge are located near the thermostat housing. So what are you actually seeing on the gauge?
Well as the coolant circulates throughtout the motor, it picks up heat from internal metal surfaces. So it keeps moving picking up heat and as it passes the sensor it will register the temperatur of the coolant.
BUT.....here's where everyone gets crazy with seeing the gauge..........the coolant is at it's hottest is leaving the motor. You are not gauging the temp of what's in the motor.You want a motor to run in the 190-210 range for making max HP. You run a motor too cool and you are not burning the fuel totally and you can have excess gas wash down the cylinders.
If the fan,pump, and radiator have done their job, the coolant coming back into the motor on the bottom hose should be 15-20 degrees cooler............but again, you are not gauging those temps.
Stop watching the gauge and enjoy the drive..........and firebird is correct..........electric pumps are for race cars, not the street.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2012, 06:37 AM
Greg T's Avatar
www.krusinklassics.net
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Escanaba, MI.
Age: 60
Posts: 1,075
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 32 Times in 27 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunsetdart View Post
Here's something to remember for all car guys who watch the temp gauge more than they watch the road:
Most all temperature sensors for the gauge are located near the thermostat housing. So what are you actually seeing on the gauge?
Well as the coolant circulates throughtout the motor, it picks up heat from internal metal surfaces. So it keeps moving picking up heat and as it passes the sensor it will register the temperatur of the coolant.
BUT.....here's where everyone gets crazy with seeing the gauge..........the coolant is at it's hottest is leaving the motor. You are not gauging the temp of what's in the motor.You want a motor to run in the 190-210 range for making max HP. You run a motor too cool and you are not burning the fuel totally and you can have excess gas wash down the cylinders.
If the fan,pump, and radiator have done their job, the coolant coming back into the motor on the bottom hose should be 15-20 degrees cooler............but again, you are not gauging those temps.
Stop watching the gauge and enjoy the drive..........and firebird is correct..........electric pumps are for race cars, not the street.

I understand this, but since the pump was on there when I took ownership, and it's working fine for the street I thought I'd leave it there. My questions were more about the fans than the pump.

With my current setup, the fans are supposed to turn off at 180* but since the stat is a 180*, and we all know that stats and fan controllers have some tolerances, once the fans turn on the temp never gets cool enough for them to sut off. Even on the hiway the fans run. Since I've never had any great experiences with adjustable fan controllers, I thought if i dropped to a 160* stat and a controller that shut off at 170* my fans would not be running on the hiway.

As far as effeciency at temps, I made my first dyno pull at 180*. At the end of that pull the temp was at 230*, so, I idled the truck with some huge blowers running good aie thru the rad and got the temp down to 200*. I made the second pull and lost about 35 hp and 44 lb/ft, I'm assuming from the higher temp. Now, as I said before, I think this is because of the stready coolant flow from the elecrtric pump, and was wondering if a higher flow stat would help the temp spikes on a hard pull.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2012, 06:53 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 50 Ply wagon
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pottstown,Pa
Posts: 571
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 20 Times in 20 Posts
First thing is all t-stats open at there given temp........but they are not full open till 15 degrees above said opening.
So a 180 opens at 180 but it is not full open till it hits 195.
Also another thing about your temps on the highway. With an electric pump only pushing X number of GPM(gallon per minute)the pump cannot help cool the motor when it is running at speed like 60mph. When doing 55-60 mph , the motor is making more hp to move the car at said speed. And more HP = more heat but the pump is still only pushing the same GPM as if you were at idle. Taht's why with a belt driven pump you can increase the pump speed with RPM, electric pump can't.
The fans do have some leeway in tolerances and some do come on at given temps but I have also seen them vary plus or minus 10-20 degrees. It's something you will just have to live with.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2012, 07:00 AM
Greg T's Avatar
www.krusinklassics.net
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Escanaba, MI.
Age: 60
Posts: 1,075
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 32 Times in 27 Posts
It's not a big deal, really. Hiways temps range in the 185 to 190 range which is fine with me. I just don't care for the iddea of the fans running constantly, AND, i don't want an over ride switch. Too easy to forget.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2012, 07:36 AM
killeratrod's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,950
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 160
Thanked 332 Times in 296 Posts
Change the water pump , Sell it you will get your money back for the new pump & few extra bucks for GAS!! Your motor will thank you in the long run. Keep it and down the road i smell head gaskets or maybe a total rebuild! Your truck Your choice!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:48 AM
Greg T's Avatar
www.krusinklassics.net
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Escanaba, MI.
Age: 60
Posts: 1,075
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 32 Times in 27 Posts
I've got a nice Stewart pump sitting here. Maybe I'll stick that on there, but that still doesn't stop my fans from running all the time.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cooling SBC 34jeff Engine 7 05-18-2010 04:16 PM
Reverse cooling a gen 1 SBC? foxman267 Engine 8 05-19-2009 06:00 PM
Cooling SBC on test stand itstorque Engine 4 05-04-2008 07:26 AM
Trouble cooling my sbc 84Z Engine 4 10-23-2006 09:34 AM
SBC cooling question stea Engine 3 05-27-2005 09:32 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.