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I would run a Mallory unilite. They are pretty small. There are some on Ebay pretty cheap.
I would also reconsider using a 267. If you are going to go to all that trouble, you might as well get a roller cammed 350 or a 400. The 350 would be the most efficient. |
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I agree fully with both,if your worried about tearing stuff up,build or buy a milder 350,your rebuild stuff will be cheaper to,if your going to make it a daily driver I would get a unilite with a vacuum advance.
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A stock RX7 will be faster than that boat anchor 267 Chevy. From a performance standpoint that is just about the worst small block you can choose. It has tiny cylinder bores that will not tolerate much cam lift, 1.94 intake valves will not clear the bores either. The small cubic inch displacement won't like much cam duration either.
I had one in a 79 Malibu Wagon and it had over 230,000 miles logged on it before parting with it while still running great. A very weak but long lived small block. The little mouse even towed a 23 foot boat but sometimes depending on how low the tide was we needed to run the boat's motor to help pull the boat and trailer out of the water! This engine got beat on allot but like a volkswagen beetle(the early ones) didn't have enough horsepower to hurt itself. It got pretty decent mileage too but was definitely a product of emissions/fuel economy thinking back in the dark ages. This combo was not designed to make allot of power. The 267 has little performance potential but would make a great pump house motor! LOL Last edited by Goldduster360; 01-30-2004 at 10:41 AM. |
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Well now thats a kick in the teeth!
Oh well, shoulda seen it coming.... Free is too good to be true! The motor already has most of a gasket set in it, thats why I wanted to keep on it, but oh well. Any recommendations on a good 350 donor car? Nothing wild, just something good and reliable, and CHEAP! My buddy owns a wrecking yard .Anyway, thanks as always Jordan |
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Why would you want a mouse from a heavy truck? The valves and heads are designed for heavy pulling and high exhaust temps (thick stems, etc). I can't imagine that profile fits an RX-7 retrofit. The same engine out of a light truck or SUV would be much more suitable, in my opinion (and a lot more common).
I'm not trying to pick on you, I'm just wondering what I am missing?? I couldn't agree more about the 267...after all, all the cast-iron small blocks weigh about the same no matter what the displacement. Dave |
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The story behind the 267 is pretty stupid. I bought a Blazer that had a "V-8 Conversion" that was done to it. The guy said it was a 350, but it has and Edelbrock Performer intake and some other goodies, so I bought it without really looking at the numbers. When I got it home, I checked the casting number and that ended the hope. Oh well, live and learn! I guess he meant the tranny! (TH-350)
Jordan |
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bluesman,here is what your missing,4 bolt main,higher nickel block,guaranteed beefy rods,some with steel cranks,194 or 202 stelite valve hard seat heads and usually the same head chamber as your mid power cars,still sound bad?Sounds like a solid base to me. Usually the cam is the only thing lacking for some good power,which it didn't sound like he needed that much of anyway,so why not have one thats tough,I mean sure if you can find a good zz4 laying around a junkyard for cheap,by all means buy it.
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OK, so here's the deal!
I've got a 700-R4 out of a 89 Astro Van. Now, the van has a good running 4.3 V6 in it. Is it worth it to use this as opposed to the 267? Any way to get performance parts? What kind of horsepower numbers? Again, I'm looking for a little fun, but mostly reliability. Thanks Jordan |
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small block 267 into rx7
Why would you say the 267 would be an easier install than a 4.3 Chevy v6?
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