Still learning about the small block Chev - any advice appreciated about how to fit & time the distributor (ie finding TDC) Once at TDC how critical is it to mesh the dizy in - it seems it would fit thru quite a range of angles & still be adjustable. Does the vacuum advance point a certain way?

Also a bit of theory- the dizzy has a slot in the bottom of the shaft which I believe locates in the oil pump. As you can prime the pump with this slot am I right to figure that the camshaft drives the dizzy shaft, which in turn drives the oil pump??

Thanks guys, Limey

Hold your finger over the spark plug hole on the front drivers side and turn engine until you feel pressure trying to blow your finger off. That's when you're getting close to TDC. If you got your valve covers off, both rocker arms will not be putting pressure on either of that cylinders valves. With the front hub on just keep turning it until the timing mark lines up with a pointer. Yes the slot drives the oil pump and the gear on the bottom of the "dizzy" and drives off the camshaft and the vacum advance can point anywhere as long as it clears everything around it.

[ February 10, 2003: Message edited by: jalopy45 ]</p>

To prime the oil pump take an old "dizzy" shaft and remove the drive gear from the bottom and drop it down the "dizzy" hole and crank it up with an electric drill.

Thanks Jalopy - useful advice.

Really dumb questions - without using the starter I guess you mean turn the engine over with a socket wrench on the front crank bolt? (harm balancer) - this means the engine must rotate clockwise (looking from the front)
Cheers Limey

No problem turning it with a socket on the hub. Saw mention in another post of using a pencil thru the spark plug hole when you get near to TDC to get it exact.Also no such thing as a dumb question.

Dizzy! That's funny!
Simon, after you find TDC of #1 cylinder, turn the motor backward about a 1/4 turn, then bring it back around to 8 degrees. Prelube the engine, then line the oil pump shaft so that the slot is in line with the # five cylinder. Now hold the dizzy over the hole so that the vacuum can is pointing toward the #6 cylinder, and the dizzy rotor pointing at about between #3 and #5.
When you slowly drop the distributor in the rotor will start turning clockwise. If all goes well the distributor will engage the oil pump and the rotor will point slightly left (drivers side) of the engine center line when the distributor is seated. If it stops short about 3/8", it's because the oil pump slot isn't lined up. It's possible to be off a tooth and still get it to run, but not right, so you want it in the middle of it's range.
Now install the retainer and nut, but don't tighten it.
Now, to set your initial timing, you can use a test light and battery, or a multimeter set for resistance/continuity checks. Connect one lead to the distributor lead, and the other one to the lip of the distributor body. Turn the distributor clockwise until you have a reading, then very slowly, turn the distributor counterclockwise until the needle drops (or the test light goes out). This is the point of firing, when the points just open. Then lock the distributor down.
That will be close enough to get it started. Then you can set your timing more accurately with a timing light.
Or, you can just turn the distributor while cranking it, in hopes that you find the right spot, but I don't recommend it (causes backfiring and starting difficulties).

Oh, and When you do initially start it, disconnect the coil wire while you crank it, watch the oil pressure gage and let the float bowls fill up. Once you start getting gas squirting in the carburator, connect the coil wire and fire it up.
Good luck.

Point the vacuum advance to the right side. Does it have HEI, if it does point the power wire connection to the left side 90 degrees to the motor that way you have enough room for timing adjustment.

If you are like me, you will spend a long time and much care making sure you have the distributor properly indexed. Then when you test fire your engine, it will violently backfire through the carb and generally sound like a nest of 200# bombs going off in your garage. That is your indication that you have installed the distributor 180deg out of phase so remove it, turn the shaft 1/2 turn, put it back in and it will purr like a kitten! Happens every time to me no matter how careful I am, always 180deg out of phase!

Oh yeah, forgot to tell you. Never ever ever look down into the carb to see if it's getting gas while you're cranking it with the coil wire hooked up. I learned that one all by myself.
Unless you don't mind looking like Dr Evil for a while.

This method has always worked for me in the past.

Wad a piece of paper a little larger than the spark plug hole and cover the #1 hole with the wad of paper...make sure it's snug over the hole.

I then "bump" the starter til the wad of paper pops out. That's TDC. (BTW I've used the finger method before and almost blew it off)

I then insert the distributor in the dizzy (?) and set the rotor tip/point at 7 o'clock position. I place the distributor cap in place and route #1 wire also at 7 o'clock position..that matches and it's directly over the rotor tip/point. Then I arrange and insert the remaining wires according to the firing order.

I place the hold down clamp and snug the bolt down enough so I can still rotate it either way a few degrees.

Your timing is close enough that your engine will start, provided that your fuel system is correct and you're getting fire to the distibutor.

Good luck and let us know how it went.

If you really want to know where TDC is, you can make a throttle stop out of an old spark plug. Remove the center filament and in its place put a bolt or piece of wood which is long enough to protrude down far enough into the cylinder to make contact with the piston as it approaches TDC. Rotate the engine until it makes contract and at that point mark the harmonic balancer with a pencil wherever your point on the harmonic balancer now indicates. Then reverse the rotation until the piston comes up again and mark the harmonic balancer again adjacent to the pointer. Now measure the distance between the two marks, divide by 2 and this will be the location of TDC. This is precise. If your pointer does not point at this mark, the pointer needs to be relocated. A lot of engines are not timed properly purely because the pointer does not locate the actual TDC.

Busted Knuckles if you think "dizzy" is funny, get limey to explain bonnet, boot, dynamo, drop head and a few other brit terms. Now Limey Simon, do you have enough info to get started?

Thanks everyone - I think I have all the theory I need! I'm planning ahead as I've still go to do the wiring etc on my '32,but will be ready to crank it before long.
Cheers, Limey

Hope everything works for you Simon. I don't think you'll have any trouble. Don't forget there are two top dead centers. On the other one the exhaust will be just closing, and the intake will be just opening.
Jalopy45, I always get a kick out our language differences. Years ago I was in Holy Loch Scotland, working on a submarine drydock. Over there trucks are lorries, elevators are lifts, and cigarettes are ****. I was called a cheeky lad (whatever that meant), and my girlfriend was always randy.