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I love the 327 Chevy and that's what I would build, but if you want a 383 I'd start with a 350, and keep the 327. 350's are a dime a dozen, so a builder can often be found for $100 or less for a short block.
For $5k you can easily build a 383, but if you mentioned you wanted to build one up, and then you're talking of buying a 350 short block? I'm confused if you are set on a 383 or a 350? If you're going to build a 383, then don't buy a rebuilt 350 short block. Many companies sell 383 rotating assemblies to put in a 350 block, so all you need to do is get a 350 bare block with main caps and have the machine work done, then bolt in the rotating assembly to make it a 383. Be sure whoever does the work knows your plans, and has the assembly so they can properly clearance the block for the long stroke. |
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Not set on 383. If we go down that road it either going to be an assembled 383 short block or an assembled 350 short block (sorry for the confusion). Time is also apart of it. He wants to try and have it going for summer
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Check out Skip White Performance. I ordered one of their 383 short blocks, $1845 shipped. But I see they just raised their price $100. I just assembled it 3 days ago. I recieved it about 4 working days after ordering.
350 hyd roller 4 bolt main .030" over, clearanced for stroker crank Scat 9000 crank 3.750" stroke Scat 168 flexplate Probe flat tops -4cc floating pin spiral lock (you can choose flat tops or dished) King bi-metal main & rod bearings Hastings rings Speed Pro balancer Pro Comp H beam rods, 7/16" 8640 low profile bolts.......I read at least 60 diff threads on these Pro Comp rods and 98% of people say stay away from them, but they didn't have personal experiance with them. Mainly hear say horror stories. (I'm sure there are personal horror experiances, I just didn't run onto them). I found, I think 2 people that have used them with no issues. They mic'd perfect and I'll be under 500 hp, so I think they will suit me. It looks like your brother is looking for what I am. A fun street motor under 6000 rpm. They externally balance it. Every tolerance on the block and component measured perfectly. (I'm a 10 yr machinist, oilfield. My measurements are accurate.) I have no affiliation with Skip White. I just give credit when credits due. Once I get this engine running, I'll put out an honest review on all the parts. |
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The 327 can easily achieve that level of performance
with the juice cam and decent heads if supercharged. The combo is very simple and reliable. Makes huge torque too. It will exceed your expectations. |
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Thanks suspect. Ill check out skip whites site. Let us know how you make out.
Hey F bird. Any chance you can throw a quick parts list together for me. I really don't know anything about the 327. I would assume it would a low compression motor??? Guess I won't know for sure until I pull the heads and see what lies undernieth?? |
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Yes you want to build with a low 8.5:1 cr or less.
It is a very easy 327 to build. You can build it with flat tops or a dished piston depending on the cylinder head chamber volume. All the parts are off the shelf. 327 +.030 stock 327 crank rebuilt stock GM 327 rods or Scat replacement (5.7") Speed pro forged flat tops -5.4cc Any good 200cc 75cc chamber aluminum cylinder head will be fine. EG AFR 195 #1036 Brodix IK200 70cc Profiler 195 72cc Crane hyd roller cam #119701 and retrofit cam kit Weiand 142 blower for short style water pump (chevy II) HP style 750DP carb w boost reference. Recurved HEI w boost timing master spark retard. This can be built with a Crane off the shelf hyd flat tappet cam too. (lower cost) Crane H-278-2 (HMV278-2 113801 (combine with a 1.6 intake rocker and a 1.5 ex rocker) you will never know the difference between this cam and a hyd roller in this motor. You can build it with a KB hyper -13cc dished piston too. ( w correct larger piston ring end gap) -prefered when using the Brodix IK200 70 cc head, out of the box.- Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 12-25-2012 at 01:07 PM. |
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Cool!! Thanks Fbird. What do you think would be an appoxament cost of this engine if I drop the block at the machine shop and have them do the machining and assembely of the bottom end. Then I will pick it up and do the bolt on stuff ie cam, heads etc. When you say "it will deliver the goods". What are you thinking for HP and tourqe and what rpm range will it make that power.
Thanks |
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Cost. This is a very simple routine build. Basic block and crank-rods rebuild machining.
There is nothing trick required here. Just pay attention to the piston ring end gap when using a KB piston. This hyper piston is fully reliable in this supercharged motor. If cost is a factor use the Brodix or profiler heads, the Crane H278-2 flat tappet. Keep it real simple. Easy 450++++hp with mild blower pulleys (1.95:1) mild retard and 92 octane. 11sec street ET's Well in excess of 500hp with high boost (2.33:1) and 100 octane. (track use) Water/meth injection is a option. In a chevy II use a th-350 with a 10" 3000-3500 stall and 3.73's (8.5"x26" tire) get some traction bars. In the Chevy II use a small cap distributor for chevy II firewall clearance. I am being very conservative on the power and this simple motor has a very tame street manor. shift it at 6000 rpm. and hang on ![]() The Weiand 177 blower makes even more power. Need a outlaw cowl hood or a hood scoop though. you do not need a a exact 0 decked block. Just straight decks for this supercharged build. Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 12-25-2012 at 01:58 PM. |
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