SBC Engine Mounts in 1950 Chevy Truck - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board -- Hot Rod Forum

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
lost password?   |   register now

LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-19-2010, 09:09 PM
Registered User
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 5,099
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 35
Thanked 464 Times in 417 Posts
elect fuel pump.

I have and unfinished project, 302 into an 83 ranger. there is no room for the stock fuel pump because of steering gear interference. There is supposed to be an early econoline van w/ ac mech fuel pump that will work. I hesitate because of difficulty in being able to find a replacement in the future, (the no longer stocked problems) If I use and electrical pump I will use the crash shut off switch located under the glove box on later rangers with EFI. they are easy to reset.

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2010, 12:02 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 13
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for the input/ideas Timothale. We appreciate it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 09-26-2012, 02:11 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 8
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
As far as cooling, I am on the side that says to use the same arrangement the factory used in these earlier cars and trucks. I like a mechanical fan system and will not use an electric system on anything I build.

I'm certain there are components that are available out there to make up a whiz-bang electric fan system. I'm just not interested in messin' with 'em. Now, for you guys who are gonna make noise about less hp used to cool the motor, the power to operate the fan is made by the alternator and the alternator is operated off the crank, so don't try to tell me that there is less power used with an electric system. It takes the same or even more hp off the crank to operate the electrical system because of the efficiency loss. Fellows, there is no free lunch.

Sorry Father and Son, had to get that off my chest.

Now, starting from scratch, we need a radiator that has sufficient square inch area to transfer the heat generated by the motor to the atmosphere. I would be thinking something around 375-400 square inches and 2 or 3 cores thick. I'd go to the boneyard with a tape measure and look at all the radiators that are in front of a small block Chevy. Measure them up, take pics, whatever. When you find one that will fit into your core support, write down the year, make and model, so that you can order a new radiator from your favorite supplier.

I bought a new 2-core aluminum/plastic radiator from Checker Auto for my daily driver pickup truck. It was $120. I don't care if it doesn't last as long as a copper/brass unit, it was only $120. And it cools the motor on the 4th of July in stalled traffic in downtown Phoenix, Arizona.

You'll need to direct the airflow into the radiator from the front of the truck. Look to see if there is a way, for instance, for the air to ride up and over the radiator because of the space between the top of the radiator and the underside of the hood. If it can get through there, you need to install baffles that will direct the air through the radiator, not around it. Check the side and bottom of the radiator to make sure air cannot get around the radiator.

Now, we have cooling air coming through the radiator and we have a good radiator mounted. The next thing is the shroud. We want a tight-fitting shroud so that the fan cannot pull air from around the sides, top or bottom of the radiator. All air that enters the engine compartment must be pulled through the core of the radiator. I like to use OEM parts because the manufacturers spent untold amounts of money to engineer the stuff to work properly. So, I use a steel, 18", 7-blade fan. Grab one from the boneyard. Lay it down flat and measure the pitch of the blades from the floor to the edge of the blade. A good fan blade will be about 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inches pitch. Some of the diesel Olds motors from the '80's have a 3-inch pitch. Don't you just know that they hauled in some air.

The blades should fit into the shroud hole with about 1 inch of clearance all around the hole and with the blades sitting halfway in and halfway out of the hole or maybe just a tad deeper into the hole, say 2/3 in and 1/3 out. The fan will be driving off the water pump. Before installing the new water pump, hold the housing in one hand and twist the impeller with your other hand. The impeller must not move. That's another hard overheating problem to find, the impeller slipping on the driveshaft. Check for a little clearance between the housing and the impeller and between the impeller and the rear plate. If there is any touching going on there, you will have a noise that is hard to find. Also, make the proper clearance between the water pump plate and the timing cover. Also, use the proper diameter pulleys so you get the proper fan speed. Oh, and use a thermostatically-controlled fan clutch on the pump shaft.

Be aware that there are serpentine systems out there that turn the fan blade counter-clockwise, so don't be fooled by this. As you are holding the fan blade in front of you and looking down on the top edge of the blade, if the blade has a Northwest/Southeast orientation, it is a conventional Vee-belt fan blade. If the blade has a Northeast/Southwest orientation, it is a serpentine blade. You need to know this when scrounging through the boneyards for parts.

That's my best shot for a bulletproof cooling system, although there are some excellent tips and procedures written here.....
Very good useful information-I'm glad I found this thread as it is exactly what i was worrying over-also very helpful to have the parts id'ed so All I had to do was order.
Thank You very much
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Please select your insurance company (Optional)


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
cab and bed mounts 62 chevy truck boatanchors Suspension - Brakes - Steering 8 07-05-2012 10:27 PM
SBC 350 superiority rebuttle...was:POWERED BY CHEVY, WRITTEN ON A FORD, (from 'Engine Oldsmolac911 Hotrodders' Lounge 50 01-12-2011 10:00 PM
Rear Cab mounts for 48 CHEVY Truck bg Hotrodders' Lounge 5 02-09-2005 03:41 PM
Chevy BB engine swap motor mounts camarochas Engine 0 02-27-2004 09:15 AM
12 bolt rear for a 1950 chevy truck solowookie Transmission - Rearend 3 11-17-2002 08:45 PM

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:59 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.