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Old 08-15-2008, 05:18 PM
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SBC harmonic balancer install

Tried installing my new StreetPro harmonic balancer this afternoon and I've got a bit of a problem. I'm using a Moroso balancer installation tool, which was working fine until the balancer was approx. 2/3 the way onto the crank snout. At this point, when I was turning the nut to force the balancer onto the crank, the entire tool began to turn and try to force its way further into the crank snout threads. This resulted in that dreaded feeling when threads go 'loose' and you're close to a cross-thread situation. Thankfully, I caught it just in time and there doesn't seem to be any major damage to the crank snout threads (tested by taking the tool off and threading the crank pulley bolt into the snout, which seemed to go in fine... lucky escape).

I'm now thinking of using another wrench to apply an opposing force to the end of the tool when tightening the adjusting nut, so that the same thing doesn't happen again (when I might not be so lucky). Is there any risk of PULLING or stripping the crank threads if I do this (bearing in mind the balancer is stiff enough to require quite a bit of muscle on the install tool nut to continue pressing it on)? I'm aware that I could heat the balancer, but I'm working in a garage with no power or other facilities, so that's not really an option. Even though it's not recommended, would it almost be safer to hammer the balancer on the rest of the way using a heavy hammer and some 2x4 against the balancer to spread/soften the blows?

All advice welcome at this point.

Thanks!

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Old 08-15-2008, 06:41 PM
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You can use another wrench to keep the bolt from trying to turn as you are tightening the big nut, it's not easy to do some time, but I had one to do what you are talking about, it tightened up and bottomed out and I like too never got that little booger out of there.

Also I have taken a 4x4 block of wood and a sledge hammer and installed them.


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Originally Posted by v8hed
Tried installing my new StreetPro harmonic balancer this afternoon and I've got a bit of a problem. I'm using a Moroso balancer installation tool, which was working fine until the balancer was approx. 2/3 the way onto the crank snout. At this point, when I was turning the nut to force the balancer onto the crank, the entire tool began to turn and try to force its way further into the crank snout threads. This resulted in that dreaded feeling when threads go 'loose' and you're close to a cross-thread situation. Thankfully, I caught it just in time and there doesn't seem to be any major damage to the crank snout threads (tested by taking the tool off and threading the crank pulley bolt into the snout, which seemed to go in fine... lucky escape).

I'm now thinking of using another wrench to apply an opposing force to the end of the tool when tightening the adjusting nut, so that the same thing doesn't happen again (when I might not be so lucky). Is there any risk of PULLING or stripping the crank threads if I do this (bearing in mind the balancer is stiff enough to require quite a bit of muscle on the install tool nut to continue pressing it on)? I'm aware that I could heat the balancer, but I'm working in a garage with no power or other facilities, so that's not really an option. Even though it's not recommended, would it almost be safer to hammer the balancer on the rest of the way using a heavy hammer and some 2x4 against the balancer to spread/soften the blows?

All advice welcome at this point.

Thanks!
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Old 08-15-2008, 08:22 PM
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I dont see any problem holding the tool with a wrench while cranking on the nut, in fact I thought that's how they are supposed to be used. At least that's how I install them, and I have beat a few of them on but they were stockers, I don't know that I could have pounded the last one I installed on without damaging anything (it was a Summit race version), and it was TIGHT. It took quite a bit of force to get that thing all the way down. If the threads in the crank still look good and hold tight I think the tool would break at the snout before all the threads got pulled straight out since you'll be keeping it from turning. Lube the thread on the tool where the nut rides with something like moly lube or some other EP grease. That helps a little.
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Old 08-15-2008, 08:33 PM
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Hi,
I wouldn't use the hammer & board method, think about what your driving rearward with each blow, I'd probably take it back off & emery the snout & inside the balancer some, wipe a little lube on & reinstall using two wrenches.
Rich
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Old 08-15-2008, 09:46 PM
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most balancers now are not made like they used to be, most of them have to be honed to the correct fit.

sam-missle
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:13 AM
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http://www.pro-race.com/faq.htm

About halfway down there are some useful installation instructions. (Cyco makes the summit balancers)
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:22 AM
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I would first make sure the threads on the installation tool match the crank snout and are deeply engaged into the snout.I would also chase the threads in the crank with the correct size tap.Also check the snout for burrs,rust and other irregularities.Also coat the installation tool threads,balancer bore and crank snout lightly with "NEVERSEIZE"(or grease).I would not use heat.Sometimes balancers (high performance-racing) are made to go on very tight.Good luck,.. Ron
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Old 08-16-2008, 01:38 PM
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The balancer installer IS meant to be used with two wreches, thats why it has two wrench flats. Anti seize is a good idea. if you do happen to strip the threads, heres hoping you dont, there is almost 3/4 of and inch more threads tapped in there. So a moroso, or similer long bolt will still go in and tighten. When Fluiddampers came out noone could figure out how to put them on, the techline recomended putting the balancer in a bucket of the hottest water you could find and tossin her in for 10 or 15 mins. What do you know, they go on just butterey with a tool after that. But do it quick.
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Old 08-16-2008, 05:46 PM
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Always make sure that you first check for any burrs on the crank and keyway before installation.
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Old 08-16-2008, 09:06 PM
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not a hammer!

remove a crankshaft sometime and you will understand why one does not hammer home a harmonic balancer. If the balancer is on far enough, then why not try to use the bolt to drive it the rest of the way home. My memory may be a bit rusty, but I believe the torque is around 50 lbs.
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:52 PM
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That will cause stripped threads on the particular balancer in question, even on a stocker that procedure can cause problems.
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:27 AM
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Maybe & maybe not

I have two HB bolts I keep in my toolbox for this purpose, the prime difference being their lengths. In cases where the harmonic balancer is too tight of a fit, the motor simply turns with no adverse issues.

BTW, gregb, I was raised in Redondo Beach & lived on 182nd Place. Been almost 20 years now. Anything changed?
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Old 08-17-2008, 08:35 AM
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I'm sure a lot has changed, I've been here 8 years, you see more people taking down there houses and building bigger ones, a few newer shopping places on PCH, best surf still up by El Segundo or in Malaga cove, Hennesseys still in the village if your ever in town I'll buy you a cold one, cheers, (sorry about the off topic folks).
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Old 08-17-2008, 03:17 PM
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Was just looking at some pics I took before I started work on my engine and noticed the position of my old balancer. Looking at that pic (specifically, how far the front face of the balancer extends beyond the timing tab), it looks like my new balancer might actually be all the way on. That would certainly explain why I was having so much difficulty installing it any further!

How does this look?





I'm going to mock-up the crank pulley and see if it lines-up with the water pump pulley with the belt mocked-up. If the belt runs straight down, I guess it's fully on.
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Old 08-17-2008, 04:10 PM
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You can also rap it lightly, and I mean lightly, with a hammer on the hub, if it sounds solid like your tappin on the crank snout your probably good to go, if it sounds like your hitting a piece of metal with a crack in it then it's probably not on all the way.
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