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You are new here, so I do not expect you to "know" me or my credentials. Suffice to say I have been at this for a VERY long time and I stand by every word I type. While I'm not infallible, I do consider my contributions here to be fully adequate- and judging by all available criteria we have to measure such things, the people responding to my posts seem to agree.
There are always compromises when it comes to how much info to provide, whether it is is not enough or is it too much, or just right? I try to give as much info as I believe is needed, and if more is needed, it will be provided when the OP asks for it. On this thread, the OP thanked me and has asked for no more. If he's satisfied, then my job is done. You are correct- techinspector1 is great resource and I am glad he's here. There are MANY good contributors- too numerous to mention because if I tried surely I'd miss someone and I wouldn't want to leave anyone out. But they- and we- know who they are. TI and I are friends. He knows of my work and I of his. I can also say (TI, correct me here if I'm speaking out of turn) we have a mutual respect for each others contributions both here and on the Crankshaft Coalition wiki where we are both admins. So before you get some skewed view of me or anyone else here, take the time to see what's up and you'll see things MUCH clearer than you could possibly do in the short time you've been here. You don't have to agree w/me- but you might consider just sticking to addressing the OP and his issues if you really care about the perceived quality of the answers given on this board, instead of taking issue w/me. Because I can assure you, I am not going to be doing anything differently than I have for the time I've been here. If you want to continue this discussion, PM me- this is way off topic. Regards, Mark Last edited by cobalt327; 11-09-2012 at 10:47 AM. |
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Quote:
That leaves a distinct possibility that the engine will have either a really small cam: .383"/.401" lift and around 200 degrees duration @ 0.050" lift on the 260 hp model, or a crappy cam when mated to a too-low CR, like the 290 hp model sports. The bottom line is that open plenum raised port race intake on a crate 350 w/Vortec heads and either of the lame cams above would be a total pos. And to lead the OP into believing anything different would be a real disservice to him unless ALL the info pertaining to the intake and its suitability for use in his case is included. |
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That is kind of to the point I have been making.You can't/shouldn't just pick out one part(the heads)of a combo.People do that all the time and the question should be larger than just that.If he wanted just L31 96 to 2000 results,then he should buy that,Vortec heads and all and rebuild it.Engines are a system and just one pc of it isn't sufficient.Compression ratios.cam.well you know what I mean.I think the days(thank god) of stab a cam into a engine and go are long gone.We all know way too much now.
I sure am damm tired of loosing money in labor fixing clearances on Goodwrench crate's since yrs ago GM farmed that out and the QC went to hell in a hand basket.The idea of a crate meaning anything is long gone from anyone. |
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So, it's "don't do as I do, do as I say".
![]() Last time: In the scope of THIS thread, being as vague as the question was- almost as an afterthought the way it was presented- I will almost never go into any great amount of depth until the OP comes back w/more. And in this case it appears that my instincts was right on target. When you've put up 20,000 posts on this forum like I have, you get a feel for it. About crate engines: I'm sure everyone in the market for a replacement engine would like to but a new Vortec engine and be done w/it. But in the REAL world, where guys have car payments, kids in college, mortgages, job layoffs, etc., often compromises must be made. As far as crate engines from GM being bad, etc. at least they have a warranty that the buyer can hold the feet of the dealer to the fire with. I have never heard of someone w/a legit warranty claim being ripped off, although I'm sure if you google you could find examples. But judging by what I hear about other rebuilders, if I HAD to buy one- I would opt for something from GM before I would go elsewhere. YMMV, and that's OK, too. Last edited by cobalt327; 11-11-2012 at 01:32 AM. |
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Mark,
Too bad the situation of how engines work doesn't fit the question. Mark-I didn't say for him to buy a new L31.What I said was for him to get a good pick and pull and rebuild it himself. Do honestly think 2,000 posts is a qualifier??. New to this forum only.Gezzz it's got to be I don't know how many yrs I have been on other sites.But here is a lesson for ya.I've seen newbies that are as sharp as a pin and guys with tons of posts that are dumb as a stick.I don't have much faith in post counts and for me I don't pay much attention to mine. So Mark put yourself in my shoes.Guy X buys a Goodwrench and wants a build up from us.Who do you think he is going to blame if it throws a rod or loses oil pressure??. And who do you think get's to cover those losses in labor to be sure that doesn't happen??. I promise you the Mexican connection isn't sending me any checks.
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I am telling you (yet again ) that in this case there's no place to even start, not knowing what the OP wants or knows. But at the same time, YOU do a cut and paste in one post- w/o ANY of your own words or anything remotely explaining things, and then in another post sort of recommend a race intake. And the rest of the time you complain. So if anyone was going to be brought into question about the quality of their posts, it would be you.But hey- if you think you can do better, then DO IT! Because by what I have seen you don't take your own advice as far as being thorough. How's about this- every thread you post to, give ALL the info on the subject. Not just a cut and paste or a line or two, I mean in your own words, lay it all out. Then do that for EVERY thread you post to. See how long it takes before you realize the smarter thing to do is to let the questions from the OP dictate how much detail you go into (as well as the tone/timbre of the post and your own instincts). BTW, I have written extensively in the Crankshaft Coalition (CC) so I can link to the articles there to add to the information I post. That's the only practical way I can cover a very large amount of ground in a post w/o writing a book on every thread I post to. So when you see links in my posts, they're almost never to a magazine article (1/2 of 1% maybe? Or less?). Most often the links you see are links to CC articles that I have either written in their entirety, added to, or read and know the info is good. BTW II, my post count was mentioned in reference to getting a feel for what a poster needs and wants, not as any qualifier or to indicate the efficacy of a poster- me or anyone else. That's why I had my post count zeroed out some time ago. I am totally secure in the quality of what I post, w/o needing a large post count. And between you and me. it's 20,000, not 2,000. Now, this is the last time I am going to address this. I have spent more time trying to explain things to you than I should have needed. Get a clue: I am not changing ANYTHING about how I post or the info I choose to include. Save your breath and use your time to answer posts or something instead of worrying about what I do. |
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At 65 yrs old I am obligated to tell the complete story asked or not.It is my pay back for yrs of help I received.
I neither have the time or inkling to write a post in Wiki. My same life's experiences has proven ref articles to fan magazines,especially when it comes to testing, are neither accurate or reliable. I'll ask you to please not post to me in this fashion given my senior status. Thanks, Gary |
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