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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2013, 06:15 PM
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If you really want to go 10's with a streetable street friendly 355 SBC combo,, (w nitrous)

Why did you not just build a street supercharged 355?

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Old 09-16-2013, 07:24 PM
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I have a set of MT drag radials 295/55/15. Some guys say they suck and I have heard other guys say they work great. My first trip to the track my best 60 ft time was 1.77 but that was when the suspension wasn't limited and making impossible to keep my foot in it much past the 60 ft mark. That was also with the super stiff spring in it. The second trip to the track with the suspension limited all I did was spin.

Yes, @ WOT with the suspension extended it is all over the track.

The car weighs 2880 with me in it full of fuel

When I built the motor I was just building a street car....... After my first trip to the track I think I got the bug.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:21 PM
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Does the rear end squat down on launch and what happens when torque is applied to the driveline when the car is stationary.? Does the rear suspension lift or squat? (rear suspension geometry)
The drag radials are critical on inflation pressure and rear suspension setup.
They work well within a narrower window of chassis setup, compared to a bias ply drag slick or ET street tire.
The "sweet spot" chassis setup window is smaller with the drag radials.
May have to find the right amount of front end lift to allow the car to get weight transfer and hook.
A chin spoiler to stop air from collecting under the car at high speed can really help pull the front end back down at high speed and
stabilize the high speed steering too.

what are some of your 1/8th mile ET and MPH compared to the 1/4 mile ET and MPH from various runs?

After my first trip to the track I think I got the bug.

Yup, it's infectious and there is no cure.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-16-2013 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:36 PM
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all teh time you can chop off the 60ft time by getting it to hook, comes right off the ET also.
So when you get it to hook and launch with say a 1.6xx 60ft..the ET will be well into the 11's @115 MPH.

Same engine horsepower but making better use of it.
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:39 PM
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fbird,his little tube headers are costing him probably 4/10s
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Does the rear end squat down on launch and what happens when torque is applied to the driveline when the car is stationary.? Does the rear suspension lift or squat? (rear suspension geometry)
The drag radials are critical on inflation pressure and rear suspension setup.
They work well within a narrower window of chassis setup, compared to a bias ply drag slick or ET street tire.
The "sweet spot" chassis setup window is smaller with the drag radials.
May have to find the right amount of front end lift to allow the car to get weight transfer and hook.
A chin spoiler to stop air from collecting under the car at high speed can really help pull the front end back down at high speed and
stabilize the high speed steering too.

what are some of your 1/8th mile ET and MPH compared to the 1/4 mile ET and MPH from various runs?

After my first trip to the track I think I got the bug.

Yup, it's infectious and there is no cure.
The rear doesn't squat at all on launch it just kinda hops out off the hole.

7.70 / 96mph / 1.80 60 ft ( this pass was made with a ratchet strap limiting the suspension so the strap prob had some give to allow some weight transfer lol)

7.76 / 95mph / 1.77 60 ft

7.77 / 95 mph / 1.86 60ft
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Old 09-17-2013, 12:45 AM
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Something is killing the top end. Based on the 96 mph in the 1/8th the 1/4 mile MPH should be 120+MPH.
You are loosing 5 MPH and something is killing the top end power at the top of the track.
(fuel flow, lean jetting, High head wind, valve float, (valve springs wrong) excessive rpm.
Auto transmission or torque converter fried.. Clutch fried (manual trans)

Or you took your foot out of it too soon.

Just doing the rough math on a 115MPH and 2880 car weight the engine power calc did seem lame.

This light weight car should be running 120-121 MPH.
is this a auto trans or manual trans car?
rear suspension? Trap RPM? gear ratio? Did you let off the gas early?
Front end way too high thru the traps, trapping air under car, effecting traction, handing and top speed.
And scaring the S**T out of ya. Did you let off?

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-17-2013 at 12:59 AM.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2013, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
fbird,his little tube headers are costing him probably 4/10s
probabily, especialy when combined with the crappy 2.0+60ft. (lack of basic traction)
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2013, 01:28 AM
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This is a cool lil Celica though.
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Something is killing the top end. Based on the 96 mph in the 1/8th the 1/4 mile MPH should be 120+MPH.
You are loosing 5 MPH and something is killing the top end power at the top of the track.
(fuel flow, lean jetting, High head wind, valve float, (valve springs wrong) excessive rpm.
Auto transmission or torque converter fried.. Clutch fried (manual trans)

Or you took your foot out of it too soon.

Just doing the rough math on a 115MPH and 2880 car weight the engine power calc did seem lame.

This light weight car should be running 120-121 MPH.
is this a auto trans or manual trans car?
rear suspension? Trap RPM? gear ratio? Did you let off the gas early?
Front end way too high thru the traps, trapping air under car, effecting traction, handing and top speed.
And scaring the S**T out of ya. Did you let off?

Car has a G force 4 speed manual trams with a McLeod twin disc clutch. Rear suspension is coil over / ladder bar setup. Trap rpm is around 6300 rpm. With the front end limited the car handle great at 115mph. It was to the floor through the traps.

Maybe some useful info : car goes theough the traps at 6300 in 3 rd though. Rear gear is 4:11. I had an alternator alignment issue combined with a leaky rad cap. When I ran that 12.1/ 115mph the car through the belt ( I think when I hit 3rd) when it though the belt it picked up some water and sprayedthe windshield through the cowl. I did kinda seem to fall on its face as I went through the traps. Maybe it pulled some water into the carb ?? Also, I need some practice on my power shifting. I tried to power shift the car my first 2 passes but I missed second both times. So on the pass I ran 12.1 I was letting off to shift the car.
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:25 AM
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This is a cool lil Celica though.
Tanks F bird. Thank you for your help as well.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2013, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
Something is killing the top end. Based on the 96 mph in the 1/8th the 1/4 mile MPH should be 120+MPH.
You are loosing 5 MPH and something is killing the top end power at the top of the track.
(fuel flow, lean jetting, High head wind, valve float, (valve springs wrong) excessive rpm.
Auto transmission or torque converter fried.. Clutch fried (manual trans)

Or you took your foot out of it too soon.

Just doing the rough math on a 115MPH and 2880 car weight the engine power calc did seem lame.

This light weight car should be running 120-121 MPH.
is this a auto trans or manual trans car?
rear suspension? Trap RPM? gear ratio? Did you let off the gas early?
Front end way too high thru the traps, trapping air under car, effecting traction, handing and top speed.
And scaring the S**T out of ya. Did you let off?
Remember the smallish carb, he's running out of breath up on the top end. Long tube headers will probably make this worse as they'll pull harder against a carb that's not large enough. I think a change to a 750 Holley and some long 1-3/4 inch tubes will help everything except hooking-up coming out of the hole. The carb and header change needs to happen together as it's also gonna be a tuning problem.

I agree with Cobalt that for the street the 1-5/8ths tube is probably a little better, but this setup is something of a tweener, lot of cam for the street but short for the track, wheezy E streets of which I ain't too sure Edlebrock gave him good advice on running big springs, small street friendly carb, and shorty headers. He's got to decide which he'd rather live with; street or strip.

Bogie
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2013, 11:03 AM
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The carb and headers won't kill off 5 mph. If the car ran 95 to 96 MPH in the 1/8th, it should trap at or close to 120MPH +/-1MPH. Trap rpm is fine. Not optimum but fine for now.

did kinda seem to fall on its face as I went through the traps.

yup... stuff happens. need more track time.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2013, 06:48 AM
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what RPM are you shifting gears? are you over revving the engine?
lots of changes this winter,,,
make sure fuel delivery system is up to speed.
If you plan to get this car into the 10s,,,please do not even consider 1 5/8 tubes! Im thinking 1 3/4 tubes stepped to 1 7/8 for after the engine is figured out. carb maybe consider upgrading to 850?( I use a 950)
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2013, 06:59 AM
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Primary diameter is just one part of the whole picture that needs "fixing" if 10s are in the plans.
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