Originally Posted by sweetlil66
Can I get away with not vatting the engine?
When I dropped the pan there was no - metal looking stuff nor was there any on the magnet on the drain plug. There was none in the oil I just changed after the 10/15min run and none in the oil filter.
Please any advice?
No need for the shop to clean the engine, but the engine should be cleaned. You can do this yourself. An inexpensive set of brushes, and using a power washer/car wash/garden hose w/a spray nozzle you can soap it up using liquid dish soap and clean hell out of it. The condition of the crank, bearings and oil pump gears will be a factor as to how much trash got circulated.
Remove the cam bearings before cleaning. Get the main oil passages that run front to back. If only one lobe and lifter was bad, the filter will have caught the majority of the particles. Where the real damage gets done is when the oil filter mount bypass valve is not plugged, it will allow the oil to circulate bypassing the filter- which is stopped up w/the debris from the failed cam and lifters.
Iron rusts before your eyes after being degreased and wet w/water, so use a rust preventative on it asap.
Clean the lifter bores w/a shotgun bristle brush and acetone to rid them of any shellac that has built up- the lifters have to rotate as soon as the engine starts and if the bores are built up w/deposits, the lifters can be too tight. There's almost never a need to hone the lifter bores, but do inspect them closely for burrs, etc., including inside the bores where the oil passage intersects.
Clean the oil pan up under the tray- there will be stuff there from day one. If I was going to have anything cleaned by the shop, it would be the pan.
A couple pages that may be helpful:
• Cam break in
• Adjusting hydraulic lifters
• Valve train points to check
• Valve train geometry
• Valve spring installed height
• HEI distributor info