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Old 03-14-2013, 01:00 PM
BogiesAnnex1 BogiesAnnex1 is offline
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Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Hello all. Thanks for yalls time.
Sorry for any bad spelling and or misprints - its late here and im tired + dealing with my 14mth old son.
Iv got a 66 c10 with a sbc 400.
First of let me say Im not trying to half az this or cheap out on this but money is so tight right now....

To make a long story short - When I got the truck I was told it had a oil change and was pretty much ready to go expt for wiring issues.
After addressing the wiring issues I checked the oil (Overfilled but thought nothing of it because the oil was clear as could be)

I fired her up and she had a slight miss. After a few adjustment I could not clear up the miss. I checked the oil and it looked milkish
So I ran compression checks. cylinders 3 and 5 had 75ish psi and the rest all had a even 125.
I pulled the head with the low compression issues - ran it to the shop and had it checked. (Woulden u know - cracked head)
The shop built me a new head for 200$ with all new parts. Durning the time waiting for the head *I dropped the pan to installed a new high volume oil pump* This is when I found antifreeze in the oil.

(I talked with the shop and they said I should go ahead and drop on the new head on and see how the oil pressure does) Since I never heard the engine knock or such.

Got the head home re-installed.
Fired her up and had 50ish psi on cold start- (I have a cheap after market gauge) after running 10 mins I had no oil pressure- I went ahead and changed the oil thinking maybe it had picked up some of the bad old oil/antifreeze mixture.

I used 10/30 the first time this time I used 10/40.

This time I had 40ish at start up and lost oil pressure within 5mins. (This maybe because the first time I started the truck the oil had been in it over night and its been cold here) The oil I put in the 2nd time had been in the house.

I pulled the valve cover to see how well the top end was oiling - this is when i noticed cylender 7 rockarm wasn't moving as much. I checked and recheck my rocker adjustments and the push rod.

Soo now after all this I have a flat cam.

The shop is saying I probably killed a cam bearing when the cam went flat.

Since Iv had all these issues. Im pulling the motor.
I getting a new cam and lifters from summit - Im getting new cam bearings. right around 150ish.
Then Im having the crank turned with new bearings for 150.

Im planing on installing everything myself. - New cam bearings and stuff....
Im having alote of ppl tell me I dont need to vat the engine block -

Some are saying I just need to keep an eye on the oil and change it 3 or 4 times every 200 miles or so for a bit.

Some are saying i could take the engine all the way down and remove all the
plugs and wash the block at a car wash then spray the block like crazy with wd40.

I read a forum wear someone had the same issues. There was people saying vat and others saying its not needed. Some wear even saying what metal was in the engine from the bad cam probably got washed out by the anti freeze.

The shop Im using is wanting 200$ just to vat + 50$ for all new parts.

Then 150 on the crank and 150 in the cam.

I just dont have that kinda money.

I can probably swing the 300 and a little extra for gaskets/oil pump and stuff but thats about it....

Can I get away with not vatting the engine?

When I dropped the pan there was no - metal looking stuff nor was there any on the magnet on the drain plug. There was none in the oil I just changed after the 10/15min run and none in the oil filter.

Please any advice?
Your problems are just starting, this engine sounds pretty totaled and who ever sold it to you knew that. The problems you describe are pretty typical for a high mileage worn out SBC. Pulling the engine apart will do more damage as it isn't likely you'll get the pistons out without wrecking them and the rings in the process. At a minimum the bore will have a ridge, taper and glazed cylinder walls. The lowest cost solution will involve reaming the ridge, and honing the bores. If the pistons came out the bottom, they might survive to be reringed and reused if the shop remembers the old fashion way of doing this work. Another big "if" with an expensive backside if this doesn't work.

I'm not sure why you're changing cam bearings and turning the crank unless there is specific damage or wear that need to be fixed. Your problems are:

- First, you've got to know for sure where coolant was getting into the oil. If it was only the cracked head and replacement of the head and its gasket corrected the problem that's one down and good to go so far as coolant in oily places is concerned.

- Second, Chevy's ate cam lobes and lifters for many years; this is not an usual let alone uncommon failure. This happens over a long time period while the lobe and lifter grind each other to powder. This doesn't tend to put any debris into the oil large enough to do damage. Changing the cam, lifters and timing set while in there should be sufficient.

- The oil pump, well oil pressure, I'm not sure from your writing what the problem is if there is a problem at all. Engine oil pressure cold should idle about 40 to 60 pounds. Bringing the revs up when cold the pressure should go to 55-65 pounds which is where the relief valve opens and the pressure will go no higher. Hot idle that should drop to 15-25 pounds. When hot you should see the cruise pressure climb to 40-60 pounds by the time the engine is spinning a couple thousand RPMs. If it doesn't hold that kind of minimum pressure there's a problem, usually that problem is worn out main and rod bearings (the replaceable shell part). The crank's main and rod journals could also be worn or damaged with similar symptoms, if it is the replaceable bearing shells are also shot, but the shells can wear out while the journals remain serviceable. You don't know till it gets opened up and things are measured. Installation of a high volume pump is not a cure for worn journals and bearings and is not necessary for a stock rebuild.

When you look at where this could be headed, it may be wiser financially to consider a low level crate 350 like the Goodwrench. As worn out 400's almost always drag you into really expensive repairs. You'll find when it's open the pistons and rings are shot, count on the damper needing replacement. I'm sure the 200 bucks to dip the block in cleaner also includes Magnaflux inspection to see if there are anymore cracks in the casting. This is mighty important as Magnaflux or dye-penetrant inspection is looking for cracks the eye can't see, something old castings are often full off. Such a discovery is the end of the block it's now just scrap iron with an interesting shape. Then you'll have to replace the block. See how this just keeps adding up? When rebuilding an engine, the cheap way out always leads back in. There's just no substitute for doing it right or replace the whole thing. The mass rebuilders or inexpensive new crate motors from GM can get you a totally fresh motor for no more money, if as much, as messing around one part at a time at the corner parts/shop store trying to make an old motor reasonably reliable. this is an estimate you need to make before getting in very deep. That first 200 you spend might be the best money you ever spend. Or forget the situational analysis and just repalce the darn thing.

This has every potential of becoming very expensive. If the engine holds decent oil pressure as I described and doesn't leak coolant into the oil or on the ground, my recommendation would be to postpone the high dollar work as long as possible. Put a cam and a set of lifters in it and call it good for now.


Last edited by BogiesAnnex1; 03-14-2013 at 01:11 PM.
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LATECH (03-14-2013), sweetlil66 (03-14-2013)