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Old 05-03-2013, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Update.

I went ahead a fallowed yalls advice and had the shop do all the work.
The crank did end up needing to be turned - The mains wear bad but the rods wear not to bad.
We found 3 rods and or pistons that wear backwards.
I got a new ring/bearing gasket set.
I got the vating done.
Everything was worked on and or cleaned except for having the cylinders bored and new pistons.

Now heres what threw me for one.
I had him assemble the lower end for me because i was lacking some tools - with the new parts and labor it was 600$.

I told the shop own upon dropping the engine off- If the walls wear in spec and it wold run happy as is do not bore just hone.

Yesterday when i get there to fill out paper work and such. he tells me he wasnt going to warranty the engine because the rust that WAS in the one of the cylinders - Since he did not bore it and just hone it he did know how long the engine should last. He was saying rust can cause some crazy stuff to happen.

I kinda wish he would have called me and told me this before hand..One would think by me saying IF EVERYTHING WAS IN SPEC this would mean any thing that could effect life of the engine and or warranty.. It sounds like to me he is saying it may only last a few thousand miles. What did I pay for?

Like I said last time I checked compression the engine had 135 across all cylinders so I assume there not to much wrong with the walls.
He honed the engine - I can see the crosscutting in the walls. Some of the cylinders had a light ring at the top and others have a more noticeable ring around the top.....

So everything is new expt pistons and the walls being bore.


He said with the cam I used - I needed to change valve springs over to a bigger set. Something to do with the exhaust valve wiping out the lobs of the cam? He sold me a set for both heads - exhaust and intake for 30$. He said Ill remove a shim at the top of the spring and re-use valve keeper.




He said as far as my break in goes - I should use Valvoline Vr1 racing oil - MAKE SURE IT HAS ZINC.
He told me to run 20 min at @2k then change the oil filter - then drive 500 miles and do a oil change again. Altho He said this Im really leaning to Grays - joe Gibbs racing oil for break-in oil for the break in and then changing to oil to http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-02006


Anyway. If yall got any idea on the above please post.

I got the short block and putting it together soon.
Try not to keep a constant 2000,vary it a little 1800-2300 ,when you reve it then back off it helps wash down the cylinder wall to seat rings faster, after break in the walls will retain oil in the rings around piston and in hone marks ,so after break in it does not matter about rpm then ,GOOD ADVICE USE ZINC but Vavoline RACING oil does not contain ash ,it is for cars with Roller cams ,Not my first choice
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sweetlil66 (05-03-2013)