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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 11:48 AM
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280H is the reading on the old cam if that helps. Maybe we can figure out something by knowing what was in it before.

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 12:04 PM
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Unfortunately there's no way the average guy will be able to tell what length p-rod will be needed, just by the advertised specs of the parts he's using. There are quite a few things that can effect p-rod length:

Block deck height
Head deck height
Head stud boss height
Rocker arm brand/design
Cam base circle size
Lifter design/brand/pushrod seat height
Valve stem length
Head gasket thickness

So because of all these variables, we physically measure for the correct p-rod length.

What you can do w/o any special tools is mock up the valvetrain using stock length p-rods (used ones are OK for this as long as they're straight- rolling them across a piece of plate glass will tell you if they're straight. Bent p-rods will give a *tick* every time you get to the bend). If the witness mark of the rocker arm tip on the valve tip is towards the intake, the p-rod is too short; towards the exhaust, too long.

BUT- the idea isn't necessarily to get the pattern dead in the middle, rather it's better to have a narrow swept area and as long as there's no chance of the rocker riding off the tip of the valve, you're basically OK.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 12:19 PM
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Awesome. Thanks what I need to know. Ill go start mocking everything up and will get back to yall!!!

BTW. Will these rocker be ok to run??? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16

I cant get them right away but if they will work Id like to get them sometime down the line before i do a breakin.

Thanks.


I had a friend give me a new set of header he cant use. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9006
Summit says they will work on the 400. They also claim to work on a c10 but only date back to 67 and mine is 66. If anyone knows a reason why these wont work on a 66 please inform me.


God bless yall.
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Will these rocker be ok to run??? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16

I cant get them right away but if they will work Id like to get them sometime down the line before i do a breakin.
Those rockers are fine for your build IMHO. Unless someone has info to the contrary I'd say go w/them.

When it comes time to put the heads on, use the same gaskets you plan on running. If you have the old gaskets and they're the same as you're going to run, you can use them for mock up. Otherwise use the new gaskets, just don't fully torque them down. I'd go to half torque so there'll still be some crush left when you go to fully torque them. Just be sure to keep the same gaskets on the same side of the engine, w/the same sides "up" (you can mark them w/a sharpie) so there'll be no water passage, etc. casting mismatch to mess up retorquing them (often the water passages are slightly different from side to side of the block and heads). Also keep the heads on the same sides.

Another way to go about this is to use the published compressed thickness of the head gaskets and use multiple feeler gauges under the head to space them away from the block. Don't tighten the bolts more than snug- just enough to keep the head from moving around is all you need.

Quote:
I had a friend give me a new set of header he cant use. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9006
Summit says they will work on the 400. They also claim to work on a c10 but only date back to 67 and mine is 66. If anyone knows a reason why these wont work on a 66 please inform me.

God bless yall.
Can't help w/this one but if I had to guess I'd say they should fit, but you'll likely need to switch to a floor shifter if AT. 4WD also gives a headache.
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Those rockers are fine for your build IMHO. Unless someone has info to the contrary I'd say go w/them.

When it comes time to put the heads on, use the same gaskets you plan on running. If you have the old gaskets and they're the same as you're going to run, you can use them for mock up. Otherwise use the new gaskets, just don't fully torque them down. I'd go to half torque so there'll still be some crush left when you go to fully torque them. Just be sure to keep the same gaskets on the same side of the engine, w/the same sides "up" (you can mark them w/a sharpie) so there'll be no water passage, etc. casting mismatch to mess up retorquing them (often the water passages are slightly different from side to side of the block and heads). Also keep the heads on the same sides.

Another way to go about this is to use the published compressed thickness of the head gaskets and use multiple feeler gauges under the head to space them away from the block. Don't tighten the bolts more than snug- just enough to keep the head from moving around is all you need.

Can't help w/this one but if I had to guess I'd say they should fit, but you'll likely need to switch to a floor shifter if AT. 4WD also gives a headache.
Roger all that. BUT the heads are already installed. OPS????
The truck already had a racing floor sifter.

One thing Im having issue understand HOW TO. Packing the lifters so they cant move. How do I pack them with grease and or washers? Do they come apart?


Thanks again.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 02:02 PM
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Just to let yall know. The psu is acting like its dieing in my computer so if i dont reply for sometime. You know why.
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 03:11 PM
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break that motor in with 15-40. I wouldn't go beyond 270* on the cam and i'd keep the lobe sep at 108*, no higher than 110*. after power washing the block i'd run diesel thru the system, keeps the rust down and a good solvent for carbon buildup in the oil passages where a brush cant reach. the 15-40 will help the flat tappet cam not go flat instantly. flat tappet cams can go flat within minutes if not properly broken in. mic the crank and see if its necessary to turn it. the oil pressure issue tells me there may be excessive clearance in the bearings somewhere.
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo08383 View Post
break that motor in with 15-40. I wouldn't go beyond 270* on the cam and i'd keep the lobe sep at 108*, no higher than 110*. after power washing the block i'd run diesel thru the system, keeps the rust down and a good solvent for carbon buildup in the oil passages where a brush cant reach. the 15-40 will help the flat tappet cam not go flat instantly. flat tappet cams can go flat within minutes if not properly broken in. mic the crank and see if its necessary to turn it. the oil pressure issue tells me there may be excessive clearance in the bearings somewhere.
15-40 means squat these days...rotella is long dead.
Buy a good break in oil like Joe Gibbs
Or use the right additive. Out of habit I still use rotella but comp suggested their break in additive, PN# 159 with break in and at every oil change. So far no cam failures yet.
(Knock wood)
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 10:23 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. Right now I have 7 qts of Joe Gibbs Driven HR-2 Conventional High Performance Motor Oil 02006http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-02006.

Iv been told it would be great for this engine. It has high zinc.

I was also told to run for 20 mins @2000 rpms. Then change the oil filter and add a qt. Should I do it like this or should i just drain the whole system?

I steal need to finish bolting up the lower end.
I also need to get the valve train right.

Cobalt and monty/ pugsy have been getting me threw the up end.
Once i got my shims - springs - pushrods - rockarms done ill be ready to start dropping this thing in and breaking it in.

One question I have tho. I plain to have this thing fully together when i drop it in. Once I prime the oil system how many days do I have to get this thing running before Ill need to prime again.

I dont see it possible to prime this thing once the engine is in place. and I probably wont be able to get it running in a day. I can only work on it when my sons asleep and he only naps for about 2 hours or so. So Im guessing it will take at least 2 days.
My plain is so far - day one prime and get bolted up to motor mounts and trans. If there time do more. day 2. finish the rest up and try to break in.

Advice please!!!

Cobalt Ill work on the valve tran and push rods tomorrow.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 10:49 PM
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O. BTW. What Diameter shims do I need? Inside and out.

Last edited by sweetlil66; 05-20-2013 at 10:58 PM.
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2013, 03:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Roger all that. BUT the heads are already installed. OPS????
The truck already had a racing floor sifter.

One thing Im having issue understand HOW TO. Packing the lifters so they cant move. How do I pack them with grease and or washers? Do they come apart?


Thanks again.
A page w/info on taking the lifter apart is here.

The shims you need will have a 1.25" OD, something like: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-4753/overview/. Just be sure the shim ID will fit over the head's guide boss OD.

If you use more than one shim on a spring, put the thicker shim against the spring, thinner against the head.
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2013, 03:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Roger all that. BUT the heads are already installed. OPS????
The truck already had a racing floor sifter.

One thing Im having issue understand HOW TO. Packing the lifters so they cant move. How do I pack them with grease and or washers? Do they come apart?


Thanks again.
If the heads are already installed, no problem. Just proceed as usual.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2013, 11:27 PM
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Thanks cobalt. BTW. I ran the new valve springs the race shop solid me by a shop here in town (NOT THE RACE SHOP I GOT THEM FROM) He said the springs should work no problem. (He said they are basically z28 springs???) So should i get the ones I know is right or should I use these. The race shop and this other guy who I hear is good both say they should work.

Once again tho the guy just looked at it and said they wear good. Is it possible to tell different springs just by looking at them.

He did say I should go ahead and shim to 1.700 with these springs.

Thank for the link to the proper shims cobalt. Ill order asap.
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2013, 11:30 PM
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