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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2013, 10:16 PM
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Roger that will check. Good looking race cars. I grew up with 360/410 sprints. Dirt is the only way to go.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 75gmck25 View Post
If you get up into the $1000 price range for all the work and parts I think its time to look at crate engines. The GM Goodwrench 350 goes for about $1400 and it has a 3 year/50k mile warranty. Although some folks still have doubts about these engines because they are made in Mexico, I have been using one in my truck for the last 7 or 8 years and it has been completely reliable.

Swapping in a crate engine also has time advantages, if that is important to you. You could pull the old engine and swap all the accessories over on a Saturday, and have the new one back in the truck on Sunday. It is a relatively simple job if you have a cherry picker to pull out the engine.

Bruce
Bruce-It was about that long ago GM made the switch
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 12:07 PM
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my 2sense

want just encourage you and tell how I got away with a single piston change in a 307 that had lots and lots of gargabe broken ring particles in oil . I was a engine machinist for many years . the type of metal that would get in your oil from a lifter I would not be concerned about especially after a good good cleaning . I would check the bearings though from under the truck if you don't pull it . you can even spin in new ones if you see a problem . my question is did you have an oil pressure issue before the new pump ? if not then check it again whith a good guage . I do agree it does sound like a cam bearing but to go to zero ??? . now to do cam bearings it coming out so take the time to mike the crank and check the thrust , and all the bearings . if the crank is a little under you might find some service bearings they are made for this kind of wear . they are plus 0001 0002 etc if they still make them they were called gm service bearings . if it has 125 on all the cyl's it's good but if you want to pull them without damaging ring use the ridge cutter first good luck , and if I found my pops old f250 I would buy it no matter how bad a shape it was in for almost any price so I get it . keep us all informed about your progress LATER .
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 02:13 PM
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Not picking on you, but asking for a "service bearing" isn't going to help much. GM used all manner of non standard bearings in production engines in order to juggle the oil clearances. It's not all that unusual to see 0.000x" undersize (US) or oversize (X) bearings in a production engine, but these close tolerance bearing are not generally available to the public.

The bearings used on an undersize (or a worn) crank are simply undersize bearings (as opposed to "X" bearings, which provide more oil clearance). He might get by w/US bearings if the crank isn't tapered or grooved, and it would help to polish it in any event. When opening up an engine, it's not that unusual to see a 0.001" US bearing in conjunction w/a standard bearing on the other half to get a 0.0005" (aka "5 tenths") adjustment in oil clearance.

BTW, the metal from a lifter foot is some of the hardest steel in the entire engine. Plenty hard enough to tear up a crank, no doubt.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2013, 03:23 PM
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I haven't read the whole thread, just the first page but here's what i would do.
Pull the engine and tear it completely down. Get all new bearings. Just cause it wasn't knocking doesn't mean there isn't a lot of clearance in the bearings. Here is a full gasket, ring, and bearing set for $89.http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...89644/10002/-1 A freakin steal! I know you have a 400 and the rings that come with the kit are for a 350, but I'm sure if you call them they can switch them out for the right size rings at little to no cost.
I'd also grab some platigage if you don't have any already, just to be 100% on the bearing clearance.
Like stated, clean the engine out really well and check everything when assembling. You can check the crank journals yourself with a micrometer if you can't afford a shop to do it.
Since you are on a limited budget you can use all house brand parts. I built my sbc on a very small budget with all jegs parts and it ended up fine. It's all good quality stuff.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2013, 02:09 AM
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Northern has good deals on parts, too: Chevy 350 engine kit 1969-1980 | Northern Auto Parts:

I bought ten of their master rebuild kits when they were $145/each back in about 1980. Wish I'd have bought a hundred! Their house brand gaskets used to be ROL (and were good gaskets), I've not used the Mr. G gaskets.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:37 AM
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I always forget about northern! Here's their kits specifically for the 400. http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...?ProductId=495
You can go with the master kit for a complete stock rebuild. Or get the re-ring kit and pick your own cam.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:02 PM
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Dang it guys. Wish I had knew about that before. I ordered a cam and lift from summit for 89.99 I hear its the best cam for the power to $ ratio.
If I end up doing rings and all that I will probably go with one of the above post. Since i knew the cam was going bad I went ahead and ordered it.

Any way Im going to check and meuser everything once apart and will then check and see what i need and dont need. I will post with a up date....
Does anyone know wear I could get a dirt CHEAP chain hoist????
My comalong is about dead -Iv used it for years to pull engines and I dont trust it any more.
Anyone know wear I can pick one up for cheap or does anyone have one for sale?

THanks guys yall rock!!!
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2013, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Dang it guys. Wish I had knew about that before. I ordered a cam and lift from summit for 89.99 I hear its the best cam for the power to $ ratio.
If I end up doing rings and all that I will probably go with one of the above post. Since i knew the cam was going bad I went ahead and ordered it.

Any way Im going to check and meuser everything once apart and will then check and see what i need and dont need. I will post with a up date....
Does anyone know wear I could get a dirt CHEAP chain hoist????
My comalong is about dead -Iv used it for years to pull engines and I dont trust it any more.
Anyone know wear I can pick one up for cheap or does anyone have one for sale?

THanks guys yall rock!!!
Check craigslist for a used one. Harbor Freight always has deals too.
I'd replace bearings if i were you. Too much clearance can cause your low oil pressure problem. Plus it comes with the gasket set so you get bearings, rings, and gaskets all together. Then you basically have a completely freshened up engine.
Summit cam is a good choice. I run a jegs cam which is the same thing and i love it. If you want to get the stock rebuild kit from northern I'm sure you can cancel your order with summit.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2013, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Not picking on you, but asking for a "service bearing" isn't going to help much. GM used all manner of non standard bearings in production engines in order to juggle the oil clearances. It's not all that unusual to see 0.000x" undersize (US) or oversize (X) bearings in a production engine, but these close tolerance bearing are not generally available to the public.

The bearings used on an undersize (or a worn) crank are simply undersize bearings (as opposed to "X" bearings, which provide more oil clearance). He might get by w/US bearings if the crank isn't tapered or grooved, and it would help to polish it in any event. When opening up an engine, it's not that unusual to see a 0.001" US bearing in conjunction w/a standard bearing on the other half to get a 0.0005" (aka "5 tenths") adjustment in oil clearance.

BTW, the metal from a lifter foot is some of the hardest steel in the entire engine. Plenty hard enough to tear up a crank, no doubt.
no doubt hard enough , it seems the size particles make a difference . the few in recent years seen no additional damage , other than some copper showing on bearings . I have not tried to get service bearings for a long time 12 years or more . my parts supplier was able to get them . they worked well for a 307 I had in a blazer trail rig , the crank polished on the small side , cant remember how small . anyway a good cleaning is advisable . reason mentioned was in the case crank comes up a little under , bummer there not available .
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:33 PM
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Thanks agian guys. Ill take a look at CL.

My next question is. Even if I dont need to do anything to the crank I will steal need to brake in the cam.

What is the best assembly lube - Breakin oils. What else do I need to add to the oil to help with breakin.

Thanks guys.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikesnyhere View Post
no doubt hard enough , it seems the size particles make a difference . the few in recent years seen no additional damage , other than some copper showing on bearings . I have not tried to get service bearings for a long time 12 years or more . my parts supplier was able to get them . they worked well for a 307 I had in a blazer trail rig , the crank polished on the small side , cant remember how small . anyway a good cleaning is advisable . reason mentioned was in the case crank comes up a little under , bummer there not available .
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2013, 05:12 AM
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You can get over/under bearing sizes from Kings bearing and just use the haft shells as the clearances require.I am sold on the kings bearing for two reasons.They are extremely round and have a high inbedment(sp??) factor in the material for street use.

Joe Gibbs racing oil is what we recommend for break-in,but with flat tappet cams where we have seen lobe failures many miles down the road,we tell people that they need to use the same for the entire life of the engine.And never a synthetic with a additive.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2013, 05:56 AM
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A pack of lube will come with the cam, just use that. As for oil just get 10w30 or 40 and an additive with zinc. I use this stuff from advance auto parts, it comes in a small blue bottle and is like $1.99 and is just called oil treatment, I think. Can't remeber who makes it. I've been running it for a few years and my cam is still bumping so id say it works fine.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-20-2013, 07:25 AM
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You can get over/under bearing sizes from Kings bearing and just use the haft shells as the clearances require.I am sold on the kings bearing for two reasons.They are extremely round and have a high inbedment(sp??) factor in the material for street use.

Joe Gibbs racing oil is what we recommend for break-in,but with flat tappet cams where we have seen lobe failures many miles down the road,we tell people that they need to use the same for the entire life of the engine.And never a synthetic with a additive.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdog7373 View Post
A pack of lube will come with the cam, just use that. As for oil just get 10w30 or 40 and an additive with zinc. I use this stuff from advance auto parts, it comes in a small blue bottle and is like $1.99 and is just called oil treatment, I think. Can't remeber who makes it. I've been running it for a few years and my cam is still bumping so id say it works fine.

Nope.Not me too.We'll stand behind the oil recommendations as a multi engine builder.In fact we still have builds out there that are flat tappet engines,but awhile ago we now refuse to build anything that isn't a roller cam.
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