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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2013, 09:34 AM
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Do you have a good cam bearing tool.??. That's going to cost you.$$$$$$.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2013, 11:56 AM
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I got one for 30$ from summit. AAF-ALL96470
Allstar Performance ALL96470 - Allstar Performance Cam Bearing Installation Tool

Allstar Performance Cam Bearing Installation Tools ALL96470 - SummitRacing.com

Thanks gary1
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:28 AM
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Will the new bearings come with info as far as what order each bearing goes and what position the oil hole will go.

Thanks a ton guys.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Will the new bearings come with info as far as what order each bearing goes and what position the oil hole will go.

Thanks a ton guys.
If you have never installed cam bearings , pay some one to install these it is critical to get them right position ,it will not cost much ,watch them then next time you should be able to install them ,you need a good cam bearing installer ,dont go cheap,
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Will the new bearings come with info as far as what order each bearing goes and what position the oil hole will go.

Thanks a ton guys.
There's a ton of diy's on how to rebuild an sbc. Its very straightforward. Id say one of the easiest engines to build
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 10:32 PM
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Update.
I got the engine out today. Took about 2 hours by myself.

Tonight After I put my son to sleep I pulled the cam - took around a 1hour and a half.
Multi lobes wear round down. *Not sure how it was running let alone running as good as it was.* Most of the lifters had wear on the bottom side wear the lobes meet.
Timing chain is shot - There was a bout 1ich of slack.
I have had a chance to get the lower end apart yet but will keep yall updated.

Im really lost now.

I wish I had the money to let a shop - vat - and install new cam bearing and all but I dont.


Something that caught my eye..... When I pulled the trans bell housing bolt (Upper bolt driver side) Realy black oil came out - Not alote 1/2 Tsp or less. Are 400 known to crack in this area? Or am I worried about nothing?
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 10:40 PM
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I've never heard of oil comimg from a bellhousing bolt. I think you're going to run into some problems. It sounds like this thing is really rigged together.
My suggestion: Find a running 305 or 350 on craigslist or in a junk yard and just drop it in and run it. You can pick up 305's dirt cheap. I mean really really cheap. I'd say you can get a running 305 for $250. I think that would be your best bet right now. Plus it will get you better gas mileage!
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 03-25-2013, 11:14 PM
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Thanks Bigdog. Im not sure what Im going to do yet.
Iv already got the new cam and bearings.
Iv got a crank new from summit on its way - its a cast steal crank. - I figured I might as well go ahead and get one. It was a little cheaper getting a new one then having the old one repaired and get bearings. 185$ new - 250 repaired.

Ill have the race shop match all bearings for the crank...

The race shop advised me to -

Replace all bearings - crank and cam.
Pull all oil passage plugs and clean everything I can.
Replace timing chain and gears.

Get it back together and see what it does - if it does ok keep the oil changed well for a bit. (Dont let it lose pressure)- He said if nothing else he has a block ready to go for around 400$s and most of my stuff would probably carry over except - Rings and stuff life that. He said this is my cheapest way out.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:40 PM
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I may have missed it being said but in case it was not, if it was me I would be putting a new oil pump in after seeing that sort of wear on the cam and am assuming as per other things I have read, just a standard volume oil pump would be the one to get and they are not very expensive. When you think about it, it really is the heart of the oil system and when it lets you down ... the engine dies a slow and painful death. Also if you do decide to put one in, its wise to weld or braze the new oil intake tube once you established its clearance to the pan { be sure to take the spring and plunger assembly out before welding so they don't get overheated and damaged as the spring would loose all tension ... especially with brazing ! }.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2013, 10:05 PM
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OK yall win.
Vatting work it is.
I talked to the race shop again and found out for 150 they can get me a complete gasket/bearings/rings and all.
140 for vatting and installing new bearings and honing.
So 300 more and I know I got everything right.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 03-27-2013, 03:36 AM
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Can I push you just alittle tiny bit more and suggest mag'ing it too??.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2013, 02:46 PM
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Gary1 Ill see if I have the money to have the block fluxed. Iv got the engine all apart. Ill be taking it to the shop tomorrow.
The rod bearings did not look bad other then copper showing.
The main bearing them selfs had some nasty groves in them but the crack its self had light scathing not enf to catch your finger nail but enf to feel the groves. I fear it will have to be turned - Its 125 to turn the crank and I dont have it.... Iv just got the 300 for block work. Guess ill find out tomarrow....

How much will just polishing the crack help????
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:29 PM
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Tell ya what.Just used this visit use this visit to the machine shop to I.D.what you have as a useable foundation.There are unavoidable fixed costs in that.That 300 bucks is cheap compared to disastrous results if not done or done poorly.Also when you start talking about cracks,that might be enough to get me to move on to another engine.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2013, 12:59 AM
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Guys - I got the engine to the shop.
We agreed on 400 with a complete rering kit.
This is - vatting - fluxing - cam bearings installed - crank turned - all new water jackets/oil plugs. and kit/ring/beairng kit.

Im going to send my new crank back with the cam bearing tool and other stuff. This will put close to 300 in my pocket for the rest I guess Ill be heading to the street corner for some fast work loljkin.

He did throw in a few extra things for me- He is gonna mount the crank and placigague it for me so all ill have to do is the rods.
He is gonna install the rings after cleaning the pistons.
He said the cylinders looked good and should need anymore then hone work.

I nicked the inside of a rod when removing and he is gonna hone it clean for me as well.

I really want to get at least 50k out of this engine before I need to worrie about a tear down again. Im wheeling to spend upto 500$ before I start searching for a new or rebuilt 350 or such... I know wear a 327 from a 66 vet with the camel heads for 500. The engine runs great and has good oil pressure. The vet its self is wrecked.

So if I get past 450 - Im gonna have to realy start thinking about this.

Thanks guys.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:16 AM
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Update.

I went ahead a fallowed yalls advice and had the shop do all the work.
The crank did end up needing to be turned - The mains wear bad but the rods wear not to bad.
We found 3 rods and or pistons that wear backwards.
I got a new ring/bearing gasket set.
I got the vating done.
Everything was worked on and or cleaned except for having the cylinders bored and new pistons.

Now heres what threw me for one.
I had him assemble the lower end for me because i was lacking some tools - with the new parts and labor it was 600$.

I told the shop own upon dropping the engine off- If the walls wear in spec and it wold run happy as is do not bore just hone.

Yesterday when i get there to fill out paper work and such. he tells me he wasnt going to warranty the engine because the rust that WAS in the one of the cylinders - Since he did not bore it and just hone it he did know how long the engine should last. He was saying rust can cause some crazy stuff to happen.

I kinda wish he would have called me and told me this before hand..One would think by me saying IF EVERYTHING WAS IN SPEC this would mean any thing that could effect life of the engine and or warranty.. It sounds like to me he is saying it may only last a few thousand miles. What did I pay for?

Like I said last time I checked compression the engine had 135 across all cylinders so I assume there not to much wrong with the walls.
He honed the engine - I can see the crosscutting in the walls. Some of the cylinders had a light ring at the top and others have a more noticeable ring around the top.....

So everything is new expt pistons and the walls being bore.


He said with the cam I used - I needed to change valve springs over to a bigger set. Something to do with the exhaust valve wiping out the lobs of the cam? He sold me a set for both heads - exhaust and intake for 30$. He said Ill remove a shim at the top of the spring and re-use valve keeper.




He said as far as my break in goes - I should use Valvoline Vr1 racing oil - MAKE SURE IT HAS ZINC.
He told me to run 20 min at @2k then change the oil filter - then drive 500 miles and do a oil change again. Altho He said this Im really leaning to Grays - joe Gibbs racing oil for break-in oil for the break in and then changing to oil to http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-02006


Anyway. If yall got any idea on the above please post.

I got the short block and putting it together soon.
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