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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Did yall give up on me lol?
No, not yet.

You'll need to check the length req'd. When I changed my cam and rocker arms last summer, I bought everything from Comp including the push rods. I didn't check the lengths although I should have. My motor is very mild and I wasn't too worried about it.


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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
No, not yet.

You'll need to check the length req'd. When I changed my cam and rocker arms last summer, I bought everything from Comp including the push rods. I didn't check the lengths although I should have. My motor is very mild and I wasn't too worried about it.

How to check push rod length. Plain English - YouTube
Hey thanks pugsy thats kool. One question tho. What size pushrod checker do I need? I see them in alote of different sizes. http://www.summitracing.com/search?k...d%20tool&dds=1
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 01:02 PM
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Install your heads and use one your stock rods and you'll see if you need longer or shorter.
Maybe your push rods are OK.
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 01:23 PM
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Some interesting reading here:

mid lift rockers
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Install your heads and use one your stock rods and you'll see if you need longer or shorter.
Maybe your push rods are OK.
Thanks pugsy.
How will i know if I need longer or shorter pushrods?

In the video you posted - the guy claimed his engine ran 1k+ before it failed. So I take it - it wont take much to throw the length off.

Also I dont have rocker rollers. Do I need them would they be worth the money for just street use???? I do want a semi good hot rod just to toy with on the street (Red light dashs and stuff) I dont even push my engines past 4k and thats rare in its self. Altho I know many racing engines that turn 7rpm+

Im no noob when it comes to cars the concept is quite clear. The SCIENCE is wear I lack.

For those who are steal around trying to help. I wana say thanks and srry if Im making if it difficult. I suffer from learning disability's and ADHD some other things. Its hard to read alote of stuff and take it in. I sometime have to read something 3 or 4 times before I even come close to understanding. So once again sorry.
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 03:55 PM
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Would these or something like these work? What would i have to change? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 04:09 PM
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You can run the stamped steel stock rocker arms. I'm not sure exactly about checking the push rod length for those. Hopefully someone will chime in.
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
You can run the stamped steel stock rocker arms. I'm not sure exactly about checking the push rod length for those. Hopefully someone will chime in.
Thanks pugsy. I really hope i havent ran calbolt or monty off. They seemed to have the inside on the valve spring installed highth.

Seems to me I have a few thing left on the list.

Iv gotta get the valve springs right. Im getting 6.70 (1.670 +0.030 shim) = 1.700 Is this right.
This is HOW MY MIC WAS WORKING BUT IV STARTED DOING IT LIKE MONTY SAID and my readings appear to have changed to more normal readings..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16

Iv gotta make sure Iv got the right pushrods are right.

Iv gotta make sure iv got the right rocker.




Iv been reading around on these pushrods and here they are great.
Id like to know If i could run them and not have to change a ton of things.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16


God bless yall brb.
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Thanks pugsy. I really hope i havent ran calbolt or monty off. They seemed to have the inside on the valve spring installed highth.

Seems to me I have a few thing left on the list.

Iv gotta get the valve springs right. Im getting 6.70 (1.670 +0.030 shim) = 1.700 Is this right.
This is HOW MY MIC WAS WORKING BUT IV STARTED DOING IT LIKE MONTY SAID and my readings appear to have changed to more normal readings..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16

Iv gotta make sure Iv got the right pushrods are right.

Iv gotta make sure iv got the right rocker.




Iv been reading around on these pushrods and here they are great.
Id like to know If i could run them and not have to change a ton of things.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16


God bless yall brb.
Sorry i just noiticed i posted the wrong link for the higth tool. This is the link
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 05-19-2013, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Are you saying I may need different valves? How do I check the valve stems for length???


BTW- Here is my facebook. Iv uploaded a video of the engine and me using the height tool.
You don't need different valves. It appears the reading you were getting was off because of the step in the retainer, which is what I was talking about when I said earlier (post #97):
Quote:
Watch for any steps on the underside (spring side) of the retainer that could throw off the reading.
Ain't nobody gonna leave you high and dry. Hang in there and we'll get you squared away.
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 12:36 AM
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Thanks colbalt.
So i just need to get the shims for the springs. Colbalt as long as im with in*0.020* Im fine right?
I was thinking since the springs need 1.700 I could shim the engine to 1.720 or 1.715 seeing how after break-in the springs lose a lil strength...

As far as pushrods... What do yall suggest???



Can anyone flag any issue i may run into on the springs.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-174001

Here are the rocker I really wanna try to run.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16

Under my cams suggested parts . They appear to be around the 7.ich range. Mine our 5.s so Im not sure.
Here is a link to my lifter that cam with the cam. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-ht817

Here are the pushrods they suggested.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7812-16

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-11621-16 - WAY TO MUCH...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6400

Thanks guys!
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Thanks colbalt.
So i just need to get the shims for the springs. Colbalt as long as im with in*0.020* Im fine right?
I was thinking since the springs need 1.700 I could shim the engine to 1.720 or 1.715 seeing how after break-in the springs lose a lil strength...

As far as pushrods... What do yall suggest???



Can anyone flag any issue i may run into on the springs.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-174001

Here are the rocker I really wanna try to run.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16

Under my cams suggested parts . They appear to be around the 7.ich range. Mine our 5.s so Im not sure.
Here is a link to my lifter that cam with the cam. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-ht817

Here are the pushrods they suggested.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7812-16

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-11621-16 - WAY TO MUCH...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6400

Thanks guys!
I don't think too much spring pressure is a good thing for FT cams these days.

I like the roller rockers. I can't remember why I got the stamped roller tips last year and not the full rollers?? DOH!

You don't need the expensive push rods. Your cam is fairly mild.
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetlil66 View Post
Thanks colbalt.
So i just need to get the shims for the springs. Colbalt as long as im with in*0.020* Im fine right?
I was thinking since the springs need 1.700 I could shim the engine to 1.720 or 1.715 seeing how after break-in the springs lose a lil strength...
Best bet is to just shoot for 1.700", +/- 0.020". If there's a choice, go for a bit less rather than more installed height.

Quote:
As far as pushrods... What do yall suggest???



Can anyone flag any issue i may run into on the springs.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-174001

Here are the rocker I really wanna try to run.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-17001-16

Under my cams suggested parts . They appear to be around the 7.ich range. Mine our 5.s so Im not sure.
Here is a link to my lifter that cam with the cam. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-ht817

Here are the pushrods they suggested.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7812-16

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-11621-16 - WAY TO MUCH...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6400

Thanks guys!
An installed height of +/- 0.020" is acceptable.

It's prollably already been mentioned, but if you use guideplates you need hardened pushrods to prevent premature wear.

The exact p-rod length you need for the correct valve train geometry can be determined by using an adjustable p-rod. Adjustable p-rods are available from various sources, it allows you to mock up the valve train before final assembly to get the right length. You can also make one, click on the image below for details on making this tool:


Checking the valve train geometry requires a lifter that will not compress. You can fill a hydraulic lifter w/grease or stack it full of small washers to make it solid. You can use a solid lifter as well- as long as the pushrod seat cup is the same distance from the foot of the lifter as the hydraulic lifters you're going to run.

The following links have been posted before IIRC, but I'll post them again for future reference:

Cam break in
Adjusting hydraulic lifters
Valve train points to check
Valve train geometry
Valve spring installed height
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post

It's probably already been mentioned, but if you use guideplates you need hardened pushrods to prevent premature wear.
Thanks for this nugget Cobalt.
Good to know.
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 05-20-2013, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327 View Post
Best bet is to just shoot for 1.700", +/- 0.020". If there's a choice, go for a bit less rather than more installed height.

An installed height of +/- 0.020" is acceptable.

It's prollably already been mentioned, but if you use guideplates you need hardened pushrods to prevent premature wear.

The exact p-rod length you need for the correct valve train geometry can be determined by using an adjustable p-rod. Adjustable p-rods are available from various sources, it allows you to mock up the valve train before final assembly to get the right length. You can also make one, click on the image below for details on making this tool:


Checking the valve train geometry requires a lifter that will not compress. You can fill a hydraulic lifter w/grease or stack it full of small washers to make it solid. You can use a solid lifter as well- as long as the pushrod seat cup is the same distance from the foot of the lifter as the hydraulic lifters you're going to run.

The following links have been posted before IIRC, but I'll post them again for future reference:

Cam break in
Adjusting hydraulic lifters
Valve train points to check
Valve train geometry
Valve spring installed height


Thanks colbalt.
Heres my next question... This maybe whats throwing me off so much.
The stock 7.794 length and 5/16" diameter for my engine. How much will changing the cam and lifters effect my pushrod lenght?
Should I steal be in the ball part of 7.794s +/-
I see a pushrod checker for 10$ that range in reading between 7.800 in. to 8.800

I would imagine a bigger cam would require (IF ANYTHING) a smaller set of push rods. so a tool that reads in the area of Adjustment Range 6.800 in. to 7.800 in.


but once again. Is the change going to be in the ball park of what I had on before or will it be some kinda crazy huge change like 10.800 in.

Before I order. Ill check my pushrods to make sure the length and order a checker that reads above and below it spec.

Thanks guys.
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