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SBC manifold to exhaust flange

2K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  cerial 
#1 · (Edited)
Anybody got any easy ways to remove the 3 nuts that attach the exhaust pipe flange to the exhaust manifold.

I got this SBC installed in my old 59 F100 and it is time to do an engine swap, I got one nut off each side but boy oh boy with the regressive threads and the nuts that don't wriggle loose what an effort.

My work space is just so confined it is difficult to get the leverage I need to turn the damn things.

Helpppp!!!:confused:
 

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#2 ·
HEAT!!! from an Oxy-Acetylene torch is your best friend here.....normal result in the Rust Belt Midwest is 3 broken studs without heat in the picture. Lots of Break-Away or PB Blaster too.

and a good natured "shame on you" for not putting a Ford engine it that '59 :spank:;):D....but we don't get al crazy about that here, no worries LOL.
 
#3 ·
:pThanks good buddy.
Yes, I also feel guilty about the choice of engine.
I installed a IFS setup and then discovered I had oil pan issues with the SBF, so the SBC oil pan was the most friendly option.

Even tried the Bronco oil pan but not pretty also.
Between a rock and a hard place scenario....
 
#4 · (Edited)
Well folks I got them off now.
How true it has been basically using all the advice provided.
The universal on the extension is frustrating, thankfully I found one of those wobble extension in my tools that made things a little easier.

Once I have the engine out, I have a plan with my plasma cutter just to take about a 1/2" out of my cross member where it don't hurt anything, this will make future access to one side at least much easier for a socket extension method.

Don't worry, I am happy with the SBF but do still have the SBF engine here and plan to find another project for that later.
I am a little more familiar with SBF's but I am willing to play with anything that catches my eye.

I just picked up a 365 Cadillac engine more for the novelty factor, so will eventually learn off that as well...

I did also find WD40 lubricant to be helpful on real bad bolt where it was really not easy to get good heat onto it.
 
#5 ·
Now that the nuts are off chase the threads to clean them and then get some brass nuts and use lots of neverseize. Real easy to get off if they cant rust together with dissimilar materials.
 
#7 ·
It's always tough to get those nuts or studs out. Lot's of penetrating oil can help. If you get the nuts off, be sure to use hi-temp anti-seize lubricant when you put them back together. If you end up cracking the casting, I've got a pair similar to yours that were used for a year or less.
 
#8 ·
Yeah, I plan to use Cooper Coat or similar when I put the nuts on.
A lot of my problem was access and not being able to get good leverage on the nuts with only a short ring spanner.
Only 2 out of 6 nuts would accept a socket and long extension.
This is what can happen with engine swaps, small consequences later that make doing stuff a little more difficult.

Well, I have now made a couple of modifications so I can get access to 4 nuts with a socket.

Hell, it is still fun fooling with and modifying old cars and pickups...:)
 
#10 ·
Not only that, but I don't know too many active old car guys who have dementia or similar.
Emphasis on active, it helps keep you thinking and a little bending and stretching never hurt anyone.

Then when you are done on a project your feel satisfied and then have the enjoyment of using it, showing it off to whoever and get to attend social events.

Only down side is some times it can cost more than we had hoped $'s wise.
Still cheaper than paying out for doctors and hospitals etc...
 
#11 ·
Not only that, but I don't know too many active old car guys who have dementia or similar.
Emphasis on active, it helps keep you thinking and a little bending and stretching never hurt anyone.
I think you're right. Working out disassembly/reassembly steps, as well as logically t-shooting problems may help keep us sharp. And my back is usually a lot loser after spending a few hours crawling under the car, bending over the hood, etc.
 
#13 ·
if you have a fastenal around.. or even a grainger.. you can get 3/8-16 stainless steel coupling nuts that allow easier installation and removal on those studs... depending on the clearance.. they come in bags of 5.. so you are going to probably have extras..

i used to have a pile of 3/8-16 tall brass nuts i got from an surplus store.. i wish i had bought a gallon of them instead of a pound or so. like these you might be able to get right from your local parts store. Dorman Products - 680-104 these are 3/8-16 x 5/8 tall. you will really want to use a grade 8 flat washer against the steel flange with them. or a stainless flat washer.

if you have clearance issues with the hex... you may want to double nut them on the end of a long bolt or all thread.. so you can grind or belt sand some of the hex round for clearance.

sorry for all the extra info.. i like to do things right as i am the guy who has to take them apart years later..

if you have a die grinder and a 1/2 round tree shape.. you might get a better seal at the donut with some grinding..





you can get some sizes of donuts that have a steel pipe inside your donut that won't burn out from the inside.. if your exhaust is 2" you might try one of these ROL Gaskets EG24236 - Exhaust Gasket | O'Reilly Auto Parts
 
#15 ·
Do yourself a favor and take a drill to those threads on the manifold and drill them out.






Now take a normal bolt out of the pile you have in a bucket/box and pass it through the manifold and flange with the gasket in place.

Make a mark on that bolt where the flange is you want just shy of that by a quarter so just the threads are touching the flange. If you have a heat flapper factor in for that of course.


Now, head on down to your local hardware store and ask for some grade 8 stainless bolts. You may have to look but they should have just what you need. I am guessing it is 1.5" flat 1.75 and you want a 3" bolt. Get a stainless nut to go along with the bolts. I like to get as thick a washer I can that will fit inside the flange while keeping the bolt true.

Loosely bolt up your exhaust with the gasket in there. I like to use the self aligning gaskets with the metal insert for no headaches or chance of it shifting. slide the bolts down from the top then thread the washers nd nuts up.

Tighten up the rest of your exhaust the hangers and such. Torque the 2 or 3 nuts down in sequence placing the wrench up top against the side of the manifold.

Fire up that engine and make sure it gets above 160. Let it cool completely. Let me say that again. Let it cool completely overnight is usually how I do it.
Once the engine is cool torque the nuts once again tighter. Once the nuts are on there good and tight pull out some wire.

What you want for wire thickness is wire that will fit inside the bolt thread twice without being any higher then the thread.

Cut off about 2 feet of wire. Tie the wire around the bottom of any bolt 3 or 5 times, then run it up and move it to the thread just under the bolt and run around once, then run it around that same thread two more times, then run the wire between the higher thread and the nut.

This needs to be done as tight as possible. But if not super tight don't worry. Just try to make it as tight as possible. Now run the wire from the first nut to the second once again running it around the thread 3 times then in between the thread and nut then your done or move onto the 3rd nut.

This does take time to do right plan around 10 minutes per bolt. If you need to take a break then take one. Just make sure you do it right. Passing the wire between the exhaust pipe and bolt then trying to fit it up against that bolt can be a bit tough. But it is worth the time to do it right.


I like to over torque the nuts then loosen them a quarter turn which places the nut against the wire. A quarter turn back is almost perfect every time.



Now fire up the engine and check for leaks. If there are none now there won't be any anytime soon because the nuts are wired in place and can not loosen any more.


Not only do you have a system that is very easy to pull your exhaust off for pulling the engine, clutch, or any other thing that requires dropping the exhaust. But you never again need to worry about studs rusting in place and looks good in the process.



This is just how I do it. You can wire up the nuts many different ways. The point is that you will have stainless grade 8 hardware that could be easily removed or replaced without pulling the head/manifold gasket.
 
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