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My concerns are the block I have...will it be ok for what im looking to do? quote...
The block will take all kinds of nitrous power. So will the crank rods pistons etc. What no engine component will take is detonation for long. If you want trouble free racing on nitrous run it on 110+ octane race gas. Detonation is you enemy. Quality high octane fuel is your friend. The cam is small for a max nitrous effort. |
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fox suspensions
You can drop the front cross member. slot the holes about and inch and move the front wheels forward, with smaller front tires you shouldn't have to modify the fender lip. motor back as tight to the firewall as possible. Mini tub ? the stock Fox rear suspension attaches to the floor, you need stronger mounting points . on a fox that has been driven hard you can pull the rear seat and see distortion and maybe even a few broken welds. do you have the sub frame kit installed . with what you are planning too do you should have the ladder type on each side. more tie plates. front structure should have a tubing square added to the front radiator support,fender to fender on top and bottom rail to bottom rail.A full width brace across the back of the engine compartment fender to fender, then add the shock tower to cowl bracing and shock tower to shock tower cross brace. Bird cage the inner parts of the car.
Last edited by timothale; 01-18-2013 at 06:59 AM. |
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Quote:
okay...so when i use nitrous put race gas in and when i want to drive it on the street then what? can this nitrous race gas motor run on pump gas?? this is what i really want to know |
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At a 10.60:1 engine compression ratio you are as near to running on the edge, on good pump gas 92+ octane
as you want to be. When using nitrous and 10.60:1 cr and it don't matter where or how much or how often,, you want fuel that will not detonate. What you can actually get away with, epends on a lot of factors. If you have to ask,,, you are best to not skimp on the quality of the fuel in the tank, when- and how ever using nitrous. Cause when you get it just a little bit wrong. $$$$Its not going to be pretty$$$$. I built my dedicated nitrous real street pump gas nitrous motor with a intended conservative 9.8:1 cr just for this purpose. Reliable and powerfull goof proof running on nitrous, on premimum pump gas. go real fast without hurting parts. (I've been doing this a long time and have the trophies to prove it.) You are on/near the practical naturally aspirated edge already for pump gas. Get used to putting good stuff in the tank when ever you run nitrous on that motor. The money you spend on high octane gas is well worth it- if engine life matters to you. With nitrous, quality gasoline is your best friend. And wether you have a stock block or what ever else will not change that. The key to successful nitrous and supercharger engines is staying well within the laws of physics. Engines stay together when ever you do. And fly apart real quick when ever you don't. The quality of the fuel used is most critical. Race gas is cheaper than pistons. Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 01-19-2013 at 04:48 PM. |
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Thanks again |
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Not if you use a unleaded race gas that has a similar specific gravity to street pump gas.
I doubt you will find a real use for nitrous on the street. Find yourself a source for good 110 octane unleaded gasoline and get used to the idea of using it. It blends nicely with unleaded premium as required. There is no free lunch. Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 01-21-2013 at 07:44 AM. |
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Next time, if you want to hit a motor real hard with big big shots of nitrous
on 92 octane, build the engine with a low low compression ratio. Just like a blower motor. Stay within the laws of physics and it will make a ton of reliable power and not come unglued. |
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Maybe I wouldnt know what to do with the math,true.Maybe only you know what to do with the math?
I say the following statement should not be posted for us stupid people ,as you are calling us. "Stay within the laws of physics and it will make a ton of reliable power and not come unglued." |
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