[CJAY]

Hey everybody I want to know If I Can run a simple plate system to my current setup?? I WANT to spray 150-200 shot

I have a 350 1 piece 87 2 bolt block std deck height 5.7 rods 20over stock crank 20over.. trw .100 dome piston .30 over..
comp cam flat tappet
252 260 @0.50
10:6 comp
Brodix ik200 heads
victor jr intake
JEGS electric fuel pump
fuel cell
750 holley hp jetted 71,80
dynatech headers
msd distributor, 6al, blaster
TH400 BUILT manual valve body
4500 stall
430 gear
28 tire
I know My fuel pump needs to go but what kind??
the rods i have coming eagle i beam forged 5.7
crank is cast will this be okay for one season?
should i sply the block? is it worth the machine work? I want it to be street friendly but can be able to handle the hit
My concerns are the block I have...will it be ok for what im looking to do?
Im yanking the motor soon to change bearings from a wiped cam earlier in the season should i degree my cam? right now its at 0 positon key...Cam card suggest to advance it to 4 degree key..should i do it for nitrous?
Ijust want a good nitrous motor to bring me into the high 9s im
thanks

[vinniekq2]

who assembles your engines?

[F-BIRD'88]

Don't assume the 4 deg key moves the cam by 4deg.
Degree it and move it as required, using cam gear offset bushings and a cam bolt lock plate.
200hp shot requires race gas.

Get a separate fuel system for the nitrous. Do not piggyback.

[CJAY]

I did.. SA designs sells a book How to re-build a sbc...I followed the step by step..

[vinniekq2]

cjay,how long does it take you to assemble the engine? do you record all clearances?do you custom fit all the parts,ie: file the ring gap? do you measure all the side gaps in the rods,do you fit each piston as exact as possible?
When you take the engine apart,do you compare the wear from the original build specs?

[CJAY]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

cjay,how long does it take you to assemble the engine? do you record all clearances?do you custom fit all the parts,ie: file the ring gap? do you measure all the side gaps in the rods,do you fit each piston as exact as possible?
When you take the engine apart,do you compare the wear from the original build specs?

No i didn't get exact with the measurements..it was my first Re-build of a motor...but i remember the ring gap in the cylinder wall was 18 on the feeler gauge but i didn't check each piston to each cylinder I WANT do ALL for next season..

[CJAY]

WILL My Block handle this abuse is What Really concerns me?

[vinniekq2]

build it a couple more times before you add 200 NO2.You are well on your way to building good engines,just get a little more experience.Until you take apart an engine thats hurt you have not yet really learned corrective measures.After that,move your power up and your experience will make that engine last longer

[1Gary]

The ring gap on nitrous is different than on N/A engines.The top ring gets hot and expands.If the ring butts together your not going to be a happy camper.I'm not a big fan of Eagle anything and nitrous is hard on engines.True enough they sell you as big a shot as 200 plate,but not the rest of the story.You should have a dedicated separate fuel supply for race gas and the electronics to retard the ignition timing at the top end.Forged pistons,GOOD forged rods(not the lowest cheapest common denominator),and not a open question cast crank,with good rings.I coined a name for a concept.It's call "the open book build". No budget,no time limits.You just over a open time span when money is available collect the good parts you need in a build with clear goals.When you done you add up what is cost to do.And you are mindful that do-overs cost more................

[1Gary]

On the bottle,nothing below 2,500.

As long as you posted here and not in the engine section,What have you done with the F-body's suspension and approaching high 9's,what have you done about a roll bar/cage??.

[CJAY]

Originally Posted by 1Gary

On the bottle,nothing below 2,500.

As long as you posted here and not in the engine section,What have you done with the F-body's suspension and approaching high 9's,what have you done about a roll bar/cage??.

Ya im not sure if i posted in the right section...the motor is in a fox body mustang mini tub. it has a 8 point
I havent weight the car yet...I cant use nitrous in a car that weights less than 2500?
Do i have make it a separte fuel system for the nitrous even if its a 150 shot on a plate system?
would you recommend a nitrous conroller for a 150 shot? because my car is a lighter?
thanks I Appreciate the help everyone!

[1Gary]

2,500 RPM.

I'm still wondering what mods where done to the suspension.

[CJAY]

Originally Posted by 1Gary

2,500 RPM.

I'm still wondering what mods where done to the suspension.

Lakewood shocks in the front 90/10 with coilovers springs qa1 caster plates

qa1 rear coilovers and shocks.

adjustable upper and lowers for the rear.

[F-BIRD'88]

Do the dedicated separate fuel system. You do not need a nitrous controller just a rpm window switch+WOT nitrous switch
set up so that the nitrous comes on right at your flash stall speed at launch ...4500rpm.

for pump gas make the 150shot work right from the get go. You will go faster.
Get a timing retard. -6deg for a 150shot.

A 200+shot will require 110 octane race gas.
Top rind end gap is too small for a nitrous motor. Open it up by 30%
.024" to .026" is good ( forged pistons)

hypers open the gap to .031top .026 sec.

No this gap is not too big.

Engines will take all kinds of nitrous power
as long as detonation is avoided.

If you allow the engine to detonate on nitrous, it will come unglued sooner or later.
low octane gas, fuel lean out, too much timing.

[CJAY]

Hey guys..
If I run a separate mini fuel system cell for my nitrous with race fuel...can I have pump gas in my primary cell??

Will this mess up the distribution of nitrous/fuel?

Thanks for the Feedback... advice pointed me the direction needed to go Fast