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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2009, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wakawu
When do leaks ever stop on these Chevy's? I've got a 79 Camaro, rebuilt to 355ci, chrome oil pan by the previous owner. He had a 4 piece felpro gasket on there with some silicone, leaked out the rear gasket near the flywheel/torque converter. I swapped it for another 4 piece with blue permatex, total failure as it leaked front and rear. Threw that out, got the 'Milodon 1 piece gasket' with steel inserts on Summit Racing, put that in with grey high temp permatex but nope same leak out the rear again. Is there anything else I should try or am I not using the right permatex? Being that it's a rubber gasket should I be using the red flexible gasket maker or should I use silicone? I really don't want to pull the engine to replace the pan. I'm pulling the tranny next week to replace gaskets and seals so if I can't solve it by then I guess I'm left with no other option.
Unless this is a show car, get rid of the chrome pan. They have two problems:

1) Chrome is a poor heat conductor, they push the sump oil temp up, unless you're monitoring oil temp, these can and eventually will overheat the oil.

2) Chrome pan blanks are usually chosen for their quality of surface finish, but most leave a lot to be desired when it comes to straightness, parallelism, and dimensional control in the bolt rails and shape of the ends where they pass around the timing cover and rear main cap.

Chevrolet uses two different thicknesses of gaskets around the ends of 3/32nds or 9/64ths. The 3/32s is common to 57-74 engines, the 9/64ths is common to 75-99 engines. But both sizes were used in the 75-85 time period.

The problem one gets into is that aftermarket parts tend to be sold as one size fits all, which isn't true. So you get into sealing problems on the end of the block. Add to that, timing covers and pans where sections are spot welded to form a holder for the rubber gasket parts and oil seals where appropriate, often don't make an oil tight seal of the metal components. These need to be carefully cleaned in the gap between the spot welded parts and sealed with a flexible, yet oil proof sealer like gasket maker, hi-temp RTV or non-hardening Permatex. This will deny the oil a path around the backside of the gasket.

You need to find which size end gaskets fit, your combination may not have the same gasket on both ends so prime yourself to by both size sets each with the proper side dip stick relief. I think a one piece pan gasket is out of the question for you.

You will have to inspect the fit. Most of these aftermarket pans don't hold the end radius well, you may find you have to start with the thick rubber gasket and grind or sand it to different thicknesses either over the top or at the ends to get the proper dimension to make a seal. You will learn to hate Chevy pan gaskets.

Bogie

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-29-2009, 01:21 PM
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Most chrome pans available today are offshore, and as such have poor quality control. The above comment about price should be a dead give away about the quality of the pan. Look in Jegs catalog at their chrome pans, most do not even make a distinction between the earlier and later years.

Vince
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Old 06-22-2010, 05:23 PM
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Ok, just to be clear, the oil pan is not chrome, it is original. The cam/timing cover is the chrome piece. The one off of the original engine was plastic and didn't fit because it didn't have a place for the dowels that were coming out of the new engine.

I am assuming that the new/remanufactured engine is a different style block than what was originally in it, I also ran into a problem where the oil pickup tube was the wrong size.

That being said, is there any known consistency between these gaskets and the engine code? i know that there are two codes of SBC offered, one was 898 which is what i got and the other was 686? or something. Do these have different gasket surfaces?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2010, 05:56 PM
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Are you sure it is not running down from teh back of the intake or the pressure switch
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2010, 03:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seattlematt
Ok, just to be clear, the oil pan is not chrome, it is original. The cam/timing cover is the chrome piece. The one off of the original engine was plastic and didn't fit because it didn't have a place for the dowels that were coming out of the new engine.

I am assuming that the new/remanufactured engine is a different style block than what was originally in it, I also ran into a problem where the oil pickup tube was the wrong size.

That being said, is there any known consistency between these gaskets and the engine code? i know that there are two codes of SBC offered, one was 898 which is what i got and the other was 686? or something. Do these have different gasket surfaces?
Dude, this isn't even your thread...

PLEASE- don't start a whole 'nuther discussion of your problems here- it will quickly get confusing as hell.

Post whatever questions you have on YOUR thread, where by the way, I've previously added info.

Thanks.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2010, 05:50 AM
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I run chrome pans and have for 10 years, speaking from experience, they are able to be run just fine without leaking. The rear seal sounds like it could be your problem for leaks from the rear.

Chrome timing chain covers are junk and they leak because the front seal lip/channel is spot welded and the oil gets behind that lip and seeps out. Can be solve with a cast aluminum type such as the ones sold by summit ..

There are a lot of knowledgeable opinions above but are off the mark a bit, I can install a chrome oil pan using the 4 piece cork gasket set, a thin coat of sealer mainly to hold things in place, all day long, and have no leaks.

The biggest mistake is over torquing the pan bolts and the way one goes around the pan to tighten things up. It is after all a pan not a head and just needs enough on the bolts to seal and hold the pan in place ...

You like the looks of that pan use it make sure the pan rails are not distorted and if in doubt they a cheep enough to buy another .

Just for grins I have two hotrods I personally own and drive, both have chrome oil pans, not a leak, the other folks hotrods I work on, it is a side for extra $$$, cars mostly have chrome oil pans and also do not leak .... The chrome pans are just fine it is the installer that is the weakest link of that chain ...... flame on cause I go against this tide but the facts are what they are ...
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