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Old 12-28-2009, 08:10 PM
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SBC oil leak

When do leaks ever stop on these Chevy's? I've got a 79 Camaro, rebuilt to 355ci, chrome oil pan by the previous owner. He had a 4 piece felpro gasket on there with some silicone, leaked out the rear gasket near the flywheel/torque converter. I swapped it for another 4 piece with blue permatex, total failure as it leaked front and rear. Threw that out, got the 'Milodon 1 piece gasket' with steel inserts on Summit Racing, put that in with grey high temp permatex but nope same leak out the rear again. Is there anything else I should try or am I not using the right permatex? Being that it's a rubber gasket should I be using the red flexible gasket maker or should I use silicone? I really don't want to pull the engine to replace the pan. I'm pulling the tranny next week to replace gaskets and seals so if I can't solve it by then I guess I'm left with no other option.

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Old 12-28-2009, 08:23 PM
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One piece gaskets should be used dry as per the instructions, with no sealer at all except for possible dabs at the four corner points. Chrome pans are notorious for poor fit and leaking.
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:24 PM
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I would find a stock pan loose the chrome. Alot of people have trouble getting them to seal.JMO

Cole
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:27 PM
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Ditto on the chrome pans. Just find a stocker or stock replacement by Milodon or the like. Much better fitment and no leaks
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAATR
Ditto on the chrome pans. Just find a stocker or stock replacement by Milodon or the like. Much better fitment and no leaks
X3. You can try to do the ball bearing on the holes of the flange deal, where you concave the holes (as viewed from above the upright pan) to get a modicum of tension on the gasket when you cinch it down. Also, you can use those W I D E valve cover hold-downs to distribute the force. In the past I have butchered up late-model oil pan rail reinforcements to work on older pans- if you are using a late block, they can be used as-is.

One last thing, after you've re-dimpled the bolt holes and tried your best to get the flanges straight- is to take a mill bastard file and rough up the flange- especially at the corners where the end seals overlaps the side rail gaskets (multi-piece gaskets).

Silicone is a lubricant as well as a sealant- it tends to push gaskets out of position at times. You might give either hylomar or even Permatex #2 a try next time, if you stay w/the chrome pan.

Good luck.
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:08 PM
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I'm wondering what would happen if I tried 'Super High Tack Gasket Sealant #97' around the rear and front. It's worth one last shot before I pull the engine I guess.

What was the original material used for the pan? I'm finding steel, aluminum and steel/gold pans on summit racing.. What would be best?
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:14 PM
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The original is steel. You should be able to find a used real GM pan on ebay.
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Old 12-28-2009, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wakawu
I'm wondering what would happen if I tried 'Super High Tack Gasket Sealant #97' around the rear and front. It's worth one last shot before I pull the engine I guess.

What was the original material used for the pan? I'm finding steel, aluminum and steel/gold pans on summit racing.. Would a basic steel pan like this be fine enough >> mr gasket oil pan
The #97 is that yellow, rubber cement-type stuff, IIRC. If so, I'd not give it much of a chance to reseal a leaky gasket. It's more for holding a gasket in place- so might be OK on a new gasket and clean surface. I'd still rather use the Permatex #2 if trying to use the same chrome pan that has given you problems.

The original equipment pans were also stamped steel, but were reinforced at the corners and were likely better made than off-shore pans.

That pan you referenced above is another chrome pan. In the photo it doesn't look chromed, though.

Maybe something along THESE lines would be OK, but a cleaned up used OEM pan might even be better AFA sealing goes.
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Old 12-28-2009, 11:06 PM
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Is the engine a 1 or 2 piece rear main seal? if it`s a 2 piece these are prone to leak and that`s why GM discontinued the design in favor of the 1 piece in 1986. However when the rear main seal leaks it gives the appearence it`s the oil pan when it`s in fact the rear main seal since it rides directly above the oil pan seal.
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Old 12-28-2009, 11:24 PM
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Also, if it's a two piece, try rotating the seal out away from the pan rail about an inch, so that the mating surfaces are staggered from the rail.
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Old 12-29-2009, 07:04 AM
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I was thinking along the lines of the rear main like doublevision. If you pull the engine and replace the pan, by all means, while you have it off replace the rear main seal. Also, take a long look at your breathing system. Excessive crankcase pressure will find the weakest point to force oil out.
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Old 12-29-2009, 07:26 AM
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Loose the chrome pan, most are just plain junk. Either get an OEM pan or spring for a decent after market pan from Milodon. Use the one piece FelPro gasket and follow the instructions to the letter, very little sealer is needed with this gasket. While the pan is off go ahead and changer the ream main seal. Stagger the mating surfaces of the seal as suggested to keep them from the same parting line as the rear main cap and block.

Vince
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:28 AM
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Just out of curiosity, why would a chrome pan be junk? Isn't it just an OEM pan that has been chromed? How would that effect the pan's sealing to the block with the proper gasket and sealer?
When I put all new gaskets on my 350 last year, I installed the pan gasket to the pan with a moderate amount of permatex red, high temp gasket sealer and a light coat between the gasket and the block and have had no leaks to this date. It's not chrome but who's going to see it unless they crawl under my truck to look?
The biggest problem I've ever seen with leaky pans is bent rails down the side of the pan from over tightening of the bolt's.
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sqzbox
Just out of curiosity, why would a chrome pan be junk? Isn't it just an OEM pan that has been chromed?
I would say not ALL chrome pans are junk. Or aftermarket pans in general.

There are different quality pans- both the material thickness and how well the dies are formed that make them. OEM pans have reinforcements in the corners that are sometimes missing on aftermarket pans, chrome or otherwise.
The price is one way to tell them apart. I doubt (but have no empirical knowledge) a $25 pan will compare favorably w/a Milodon pan or even the Trans-Dapt pan I linked above.

Chrome is slippery, actually any polished steel could be slippery. This can let the gaskets slip around, especially when silicone sealer is used w/o any time given to skin over. That said, I doubt just chroming would be much of a factor, slippery or otherwise. But roughing up the surface has long been a 'cure' for them.

I agree about the flanges being off causing more problems than anything.
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Old 12-29-2009, 09:03 AM
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SBC oil leak

chrome don't get you home , hear that lots before i dumped it and went back to stock .
you may have a leak between the main cap ? did you gab a little silicone there before torquing cap down .

i found out that chrome pans are chromed from the better stamp job and the after market stocks you buy are the ones that are dropped from chrome finish line at the plant because of imper factions.
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