[Tommy Brown]

I was about to build a sbc 383 stoker for street/track an i was wondering would it be better to build a sbc 406. The question I'm wondering is would the ex 23ci make a big difference in hp/torque.

[a1supersport]

383 hands down. 400 blocks have issues like siamesed-cylinders, steam holes, etc. 383's are so common now, you could pick and choose your set-up specific to your application...because it's been built in so many combinations of heads/intakes/cams/carbs, etc. The extra 23ci is negligible in my opinion. The only reason I built a 406 was because none of my friends did...but a couple of them had 383's. Just thought I'd try something different. My mistake was using the stock crank/rods, which limited it's rpm capability.

Besides...if something happens to your 400 block, what are the odds of finding a good core...or finding one at all? 350 blocks are all over the place.

[oldbogie]

Originally Posted by Tommy Brown

I was about to build a sbc 383 stoker for street/track an i was wondering would it be better to build a sbc 406. The question I'm wondering is would the ex 23ci make a big difference in hp/torque.

A 406 will have about 2/3s the effect over a 383 as a 383 has over a 350.

Bogie

[my87Z]

if you can find a good block to do the build with then there is no question, i'd go with the 400, even if it needed to be bored out to up to .040" i would still go with the 400. flat out it will make more power with the same parts, and will handle slightly more aggressive cam while still staying streetable. "no replacement for cubic inch dissplacement" and you can find just as many parts out there for a 400 as you can for a 383 or 350, remember that they are still a small block chevy.

[F-BIRD'88]

The 406 will outperform any 383. There is no "issue" with steam holes or siamesed blocks. Just ignorance.

Find a rebuildable 400 2 bolt block and GM 400 crank and a competent auto machinist and go for it.
You will not regret it. If you can't run with the big (cube) dawgs, stay on the porch.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by Tommy Brown

would the ex 23ci make a big difference in hp/torque.

The difference in power will be about the difference in cid, give or take, depending on the exact combo.

[Fast 4 Door]

Originally Posted by my87Z

if you can find a good block to do the build with then there is no question, i'd go with the 400, even if it needed to be bored out to up to .040" i would still go with the 400. flat out it will make more power with the same parts, and will handle slightly more aggressive cam while still staying streetable. "no replacement for cubic inch dissplacement" and you can find just as many parts out there for a 400 as you can for a 383 or 350, remember that they are still a small block chevy.

I agree 100% heres another one . . . "There is no inches like cubic inches"

I was fortunate enough to do my 400 .020 over. I was warned by a few guys to not go more than you need to unless you can measure ALL the cylinder walls accurately. Just sharing my experience with 400's . In fact, I don't even want to build another 350 ( but I will). everyone has a 383. . 400 gets my vote

[DoubleVision]

No question the 400. Back in the early days we tried`em all, 350, 372, 383, and finally 400. Hands down the 400 kicked butt and took names. The larger bore of the 400 opens up breathing potential.
If you go 400, have the deck maganfluxed, some of them tend to crack around the steam holes, if they find a crack around the steam holes have them king pinned and you`ll be fine from there.

[ap72]

If you want low RPM torque then you want more displacement. If you need a 400 core I would suggest looking at SHP, the cost over one of their complete blocks compared to finding a good 400 core and having it machined is only about $400-$500. That's not much when you consider all the advantages of a SHP as far as strength and durability go. I'd run 5.7 rods If this is a street build. 6.0" rods if its a race build, or you don't mind adding a little more oil between changes. A 400 has a relatively long stroke and a large piston so decreasing the weight as much as you can will pay off much more so than it would in something like a 327.

SHP block, Scat crank, and 5.7 or 6" rods from a good supplier (still don't trust Eagle SIR), with some forged pistons will make a very nice very durable 400 that should last a long time- provided your tune is correct.

[Dreadhead]

Originally Posted by ap72

If you want low RPM torque then you want more displacement. If you need a 400 core I would suggest looking at SHP, the cost over one of their complete blocks compared to finding a good 400 core and having it machined is only about $400-$500. That's not much when you consider all the advantages of a SHP as far as strength and durability go. I'd run 5.7 rods If this is a street build. 6.0" rods if its a race build, or you don't mind adding a little more oil between changes. A 400 has a relatively long stroke and a large piston so decreasing the weight as much as you can will pay off much more so than it would in something like a 327.

SHP block, Scat crank, and 5.7 or 6" rods from a good supplier (still don't trust Eagle SIR), with some forged pistons will make a very nice very durable 400 that should last a long time- provided your tune is correct.

I agree with ap72... My friend has a 400 bored .40 scat rotating assembly 2 valve relief pistons, and 64cc dart heads, and as we were riding yesterday he could slang his monte carlo ss around without even flooring it.

[84 G.L. Underway]

I am gonna build a 383 stroker over building a sledgehammer set-up which is twin turbo and alot of other stuff but im building me a nitrious 383 stroker motor which this should be interesting

[Tommy Brown]

Originally Posted by ap72

If you want low RPM torque then you want more displacement. If you need a 400 core I would suggest looking at SHP, the cost over one of their complete blocks compared to finding a good 400 core and having it machined is only about $400-$500. That's not much when you consider all the advantages of a SHP as far as strength and durability go. I'd run 5.7 rods If this is a street build. 6.0" rods if its a race build, or you don't mind adding a little more oil between changes. A 400 has a relatively long stroke and a large piston so decreasing the weight as much as you can will pay off much more so than it would in something like a 327.

SHP block, Scat crank, and 5.7 or 6" rods from a good supplier (still don't trust Eagle SIR), with some forged pistons will make a very nice very durable 400 that should last a long time- provided your tune is correct.

I have a Eagle crank in my 355 sbc, I don't have a problem with Eagle cranks whats wrong with the Eagle crank please let me know. Thank you

[my87Z]

they have had some quality issues in the past, but seem to have fixed them, but once you mess up it take a long time for people to forgive and forget, i too have used a cast steel crank from eagle years ago in my 383 that i had in my blazer, i wouldn't be scared to use them again