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Yeah all the blocks I've worked on had those.
I see you have an older block (wide serial number pad) with a short pump. You could just "T" it off the rear fitting. I usually don't run an oil temp. gauge, but it's easier if you do it closer to the firewall (so you don't have an extra line running all the way to the front). In my opinion you'd get a more accurate reading from the back fitting as well. |
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There's a 1/4" NPT oil galley plug down by the oil filter pad, on the side of the block, that can be used.
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Yes you can use that outlet, just remove the plug and install the proper fitting for your oil pressure gage. That location is easier than using a "T" off the back one, every time I have tried that it interferes with the distributor.
Vince |
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Hugger Orange says Thank You
Thanks for all the help!!
Ya,, trying to use a tee will have problems with the intake and the dist. I am putting the oil preassure SU back there and since you guys helped me out I am going to run the oil temp off of the front of the block. I'm coming out of the firewall between the dist and valve cvr with the water temp wires since that SU is in the intake about 4 inches from where the oil temp SU will now go, will be able to run both sets of wiring in one conduit.. I did see that other fitting down by the oil filter I thought it might work but the front of the block will be better/easier. This will be fine until such time I tear the car down, right now I'd just like to get it on the road, I don't want a show car and this will be far from that, it will be a fun car to drive, easy to work on and satisfy my desire for a Hot Wheels type Hot Rod before I get to old, although I feel like I'm there already...... Again Thanks for the help!!
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Oil Temp should be checked in the sump(pan), not a pressure passage in the block, in the block oil passage the block temp will influence the reading. You want the sump temp of the oil, not the temp after the oil pump pressurizes it.
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