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SBC in S-10 chassis
I now have a clean frame , bare CM pads and have dropped my motor-trans into place . Approx 1 " clearance pan to CM but worried about various clearances . Mostly stock exaust manifolds to upper A arms-bushing , otherwise I can rig the mounts I have and start tying it down . I dont mind fabbing a new trans mount.....T350 but Im not certain if the motor should be higher , lower ....forward or back ... tilted more level etc Any help would be appriciated . The body will be a 34 chevy truck and flatbed so once the motor is " IN " I can begin to fit and cuss . Yeah ! I never planned on the Power aspect of this match , but am learning that itll fly ! Well , thats cool too !!
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They put big block's in these trucks.. I would buy the right mount's.. Just as easy as making them..Are you going to be running fenders on this truck ??? If not they look funny with these types of frames under them... So much easier to build a new frame.... But it's your choice..Post some pictures..
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JTR Chevrolet S-10 Truck V-8 Conversion |
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Sbc- s-10
My question seems to get passed over through 3 hours of links , sites , blogs and forums . I keep seeing ...before I put the motor in to look at what its like with this motor in . Thanks for the input but no one as yet has told me the approx. distance the pan should be from the crossmember . The SBC needs to be back, or forward of the original mounts . Any way , Im usually impatient so I just spent the day putting my engine in my chassis , taking into consideration all movement/ clearance issues . I cant afford to buy this and that or build a whole new frame , etc. It may be easier but I have to work with what I have . When guys get to a bottleneck with a project and you have the " purchase/build answer , just pretend you are going to buy the needed items yourself..... then help figure a way through with the poor guys available parts/funds . Im certain I wont be too popular after this , but for all of us " making do " builders , if one dude alters his reply and really helps solve a problem , Itll be worth it !
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Good Luck..
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Now, stand up and act like a man, drop your attitude and click the "Check Out" box here..... https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/we...c469a145272506 |
| The Following User Says Thank You to techinspector1 For This Useful Post: | ||
NEW INTERIORS (01-16-2013) | ||
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Hell no I dont get paid to help you guys !
Thank you so much for the help you sent my way via a website address . I was hoping some guy like me , one that had struggled to do what I am doing, would have answered my plea and dropped a few simple answers, thereby moving me forward in the process . I am going to imagine that you had a bad day and that " babysitting you losers that dont jump at my every advice " is not the case . I do appriciate your assistance sir , but its not as if all advice is appropriate for the task . You are valuable , Im certain , to many guys like me , struggling but moving forward . Now , you stand up like a man and reread my post ! It was intended to further the site , not upbraid you personally . 70 ? Really ?
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Yeah, I get a little irritated when I supply the correct answer and the recipient seems unappreciative. I'm funny that way.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to techinspector1 For This Useful Post: | ||
NEW INTERIORS (01-17-2013), Valkyrie5.7 (01-17-2013) | ||
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Installtion kits that are somewhat different approaches from JTR can be found at Jegs, Summit and other hot rod shops, there is a whole blog site devoted to this at V8S10Forum V8 Discussion - S-10 Forum However, I would hesitate to go down any commited path at this point on engine location as most of the data is oriented to fitting the V8 into S10/15 body locations. I've not done a swap of a late 40's early 50's style body onto the S10/15 frame so I don't know if getting around the sheetmetal is the same dimensional problem as it is with the complete S10/15. In general with an S10/15 swap where the body is used; the engine needs to be set back an inch or so to clear the radiator. From the mount position for the original I4 and V6 it will actaully relocate the mount forward to meet the V8 position on the block but the complete engine will actually move toward the firewall. For the stock transmission crossmember the net aft movement isn't all that much, so the slots of the mounting platform need only to be elongated rearward, this is usually sufficient. While this gets the V8 engine and tranny into the frame so it will mostly clear the S10/15 engine crossmember, steering linkage and sheetmetal with only minor doctoring, I do not know what the clearances will be for the old model body clearances and how that may affect where things need to be for this. There's plenty of disscussion boards out there on this subject. Bogie |
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