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Old 01-21-2005, 02:43 PM
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SBC Starter and flywheel problems

Ok heres my whole setup:
the block is a 70's style engine 350
10.3:1 compression
hyperutectic pistons
edelbrock intake
edelbrock carb
clevite cam with .510 lift and .314 duration
high volume oil pump
stall converter
th-350 transmission
stock 2.73 gears in the rear
gear reduction starter
This is all in a 1986 Chevy truck

My problem is that ever since I put this engine in the truck I always had problems with the starter and flywheel, I have been told several different things thats causing the problems from mechanics in my area. When ever I put a new flywheel and starter on the engine when it was first put in it would turn the engine just fine and after the engine had run for about 1000 miles it start grinding a bit and the starter had given out since it was a stock starter. and whenever I put a new starter on it, the starter will work fine for a while and a week or so later will start grinding. I have replaced the flywheel several times in the past year, been through at least different starters, and countless shims. Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance.

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Old 01-21-2005, 02:46 PM
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starter

Chanes are you are buying the cheapo 1 yr warranty starters. The headers are burning them up. You have 3 choices. Buy a starter heat shield, a better starter, or best thing, a mini starter.
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Old 01-21-2005, 02:50 PM
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are you sure about your compression


martien
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Old 01-21-2005, 03:06 PM
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bracketeer - I have already been through a mini starter before, and several of the 3yr warranty ones but after you take them back to autozone or oreillys more than once they dont accept them anymore, but I will be sure to try a heat shield.


martien bierlee-I could be off on the compression, it was a ball park figure given to me by the guy at the machine shop who did the work on my heads. And because I do not know the deck height or how thick my head gaskets are exactly Its hard to figure the compression for sure.

thanks guys
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:00 PM
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Heat sink should not cause a grinding problem,heat kills the solenoid,resulting in weak cranking speeds. A grinding starter is either incorrect shim adjustment,Loose housing bolts,bad Bendix gear on starter or cracked nose. Rotate your flywheel 360 degrees by hand,Put a mark on the flywheel where you start and rotate it slowly examining each tooth,check for spots that are wore down,feel each to see if there is wore spot or sharp edge. If your flywheel is warped at one point it will end up being too far or close to the starter and that will cause a grind also. Even a slight warp is enough to offset the distance between the gear and flywheel.


BTW. I am not suggesting you not get a heat shield. By all means do get one,good piece to protect the life of the starters working ability.
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:01 PM
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Are you using the correct bolts for the starter?

Regular bolts without the knurled area above the threads will let the starter nose move around. Sometimes it's enough to make the gears mesh incorrectly and wear very quick.

Is the rear of the starter supported with a strap bolted to the block?

Sometimes the starter can move enough while spinning the engine to cause incorrect gear/tooth mesh and accelerated wear.

Larry
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:20 PM
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RCastle-Thanks for the info, but what would cause a starter to suddenly just start grinding? I have put several starters on this engine and most of them did not need shims and sounded great when they were first bolted on. After a week or so, the starter would start grinding, when the starters started grinding I would pull them off and inspect the flywheel and starter and neither would have any wear or warping at all. And I have had about 4 different flywheels on it and all of them have done the same thing.

ColdKnock- I am using the bolts that come with the starter, and there is no bolt hole in the block for a strap, I have purchased a stock strap from a parts store but there is no where to bolt it to.


I have had it taken to mechanics in my area, and I have heard from them is try a gear reduction starter (My second one just failed today), and one guy told me it was because it was a "canada" block.

BTW, I know there is no difference in the canadian blocks because of the replies I have had on this board before about it, and the strange looks from the guys at the parts store.

Thanks again.
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:35 PM
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Directly above the rear of the starter motor, right next to the head, there should be a couple of bolts in the block. Make a strap to go from there to the back of the starter.

Don't know if that'll fix it but it couldn't hurt.

Larry
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:43 PM
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Thanks man I will try that soon, but I have another question. Is there a flywheel or starter that anyone could recommend? I have been using stock 169 tooth flywheels and just about every type of starter that will fit my block and now I have to replace both of them again. Is there a brand of starters that is better than others? The bulky stock style starters don't work to well on my engine, I was told because of the higher compression, but I could be wrong on that.

Thanks again
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:54 PM
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Try a mini starter. The application I use is a 96 Chevy 2500 or 1500 with a 454. It'll cost you about $125.

On that compression issue, it isn't an issue. With a camshaft that big your cranking compression will be fairly low, maybe too low.

Larry
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Old 01-21-2005, 06:06 PM
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Are the wires different on a 96? Im talking about like the ignition wires and the battery and that other wire (brain fart, I can't remember at the moment what that other wire goes to) would they be any different than on an 86'? just wondering
Thanks again for all your help
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Old 01-21-2005, 06:08 PM
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No, it connects the same way. I have one on my '72 Nova with a factory style wiring harness.

Larry
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Old 01-21-2005, 06:36 PM
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I once had a 72 Nova do this.
2 starters and one flywheel later I found that the starter was toofar from the flywheel. I had to file the starter mounting pad to pull it closer to the flywheel/crank.

I suspect that the block had been align-bored to an extreme even though i was told that line boring would not remove enough material to matter.
Maybe it was twisted??

Anyways check the gap between the teeth of the flywheel/starter when the gears are engaged. There should be a small gap at the peak of each tooth, nothing excessive at all.

If you've tried everything else, look here.
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Old 01-21-2005, 06:43 PM
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I think Larry had a goodidea on the bracket/strap. Are the bolt holes in the block possibly stripping,not fully wore out,but the threads kinda wore,allowing the bolts to loosen,thus the weight on the front of the starter will drop,in turn pushing the bendix gear closer to the flywheel instead of keeping it parallel? The Mexican blocks are going to be drilled the same,I do not like the Mexican block for other reasons,but the booses for the bolts have nothing to do with it.If you have just one wore spot on the flywheel that has a few teeth wore and it stops there then you would get a grind.It does not however sound like that is your problem. Try the strap/bracket and see how that works.Also while you have the starter off,examine the thrades in the block,make sure they are not rounding off. It may not hurt to go ahead a purchase a new set of starter bolts either,they are inexpensive and could possibly be part of a larger problem. Especially as often as you have had to R&R the starter.
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Old 10-04-2009, 08:05 PM
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Starter

Quote:
Originally Posted by coldknock
No, it connects the same way. I have one on my '72 Nova with a factory style wiring harness.

Larry

WHAT ABOUT ON A 76 NOVA MOTOR I HAVE IT IN A 83 MONTE CARLO SS WITH THE FACTORY MANIFOLDS.
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