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Old 02-14-2004, 08:13 PM
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SBC starter problems

i have a chevy 350 with about 10:1 compression ive been having a problem with the start ever since i put the motor together. i put a new starter from autozone in after the old one stoped working. i got a good 20 starts out of the new one then it started skipping, grinding and geting stuck on the flex plate. so i brought it back to them and got a new one it work for awhile and started doing the samething as the old one. so i got starter from napa in with a new flexplate and it did the samething i got about 20 starts out of it then it started in one me again and do all the samething as the starters from autozone. the only thing i can think that may be couseing this is that i have a higher then stock compression and it could be bending the starter bolts they didnt look bent when i was puting the 3 starters in but i wasnt really looking eather if they were bent i dont know why the 2nd and 3rd starter would work for while and stop. so im stuck i dont want to buy a high Torque starter if its just going to do the samething. anyone ever have this prob? at this point ill try anything

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Old 02-14-2004, 08:24 PM
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i sounds to me you do not have your starter shimmed wright i believe it is .060 clearance tooth to ring but it should give you instruction's in the new starter box.
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:35 PM
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Just some more advice, the last garage I worked at always ordered parts from Napa. It wasn't very uncommon for cars to come back soon with the "new" Napa starters having gone bad, that goes for their electric fuel pumps and alternators too. Get a new one from A/C Delco they always last a really long time.
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:36 PM
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hi punk, Rogers Performance is right you need to check your clearances, but if i may add something to what he said, what i did when i was having a similar problem on a 383 SBC i had i just went and bought a tilton gear reduction starter, not only did it turn the engine over with ease, it was smaller for better header clearance, it was pounds lighter, and lasted 3 times as long as a conventional starter, and took less cranking amps to operate, but to my point the stock style starters that i had on it prior to the gear reduction starter always had to be shimmed, the gear reduction starter has more "play" in the drive gear thus pretty much self correcting the flex plate clearance porblem, the gear reduction cost a little more but its better than buying a starter every month, just something to think about.


Johnathan
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:39 PM
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want to ad to 79 don,t buy one of those cheap mini starters either most of the time they do not engage the flex plate or flywheel fully.
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:42 PM
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very good point Rogers, i would highly recommend Tilton
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:42 PM
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I've never bought a starter from NAPA, but I bought ONE once from AUTOZONE for my moms '88 chevy P/U 5.7 and even though it came with a lifetime warranty, I was replacing it every few months. beware of AUTOZONE parts! especially now, since they have "Jessie James" doing commercials for them RIGHT!!!!
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:45 PM
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There is a starter out by CVR they are from Canada have seen them but have not looked at how they engage the fly wheel they are fully adjustable to so you can clock them for header clearance.





MIKE
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:47 PM
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I`ve went over this many times myself, after my car ate a total of 8 starters, I decided it was time to do something about it, so I got some 2 gauge wire, added connectors to both ends, ran one end to the frame and the other to the block, and from the block to the battery, then I added a 10 gauge ground from the battery to the fender, then another 10 gauge from the frame to the firewall, and from there I used the factory ground strap from the firewall to the intake, this cured all my hot start problems, and all my electrical woes, my header makes contact with the starter, and I have no heat sheild, it doesn`t matter if the weather is 100 degrees or 20 degree`s, the starter fires the car up the minute I touch the key with no dragging or grinding, it also spins the engine over with ease with plenty of speed. no matter what kind of starter you use without proper grounds it`s good as useless, the downsides to bad grounds are, it wears out starting components and electrical components in half the time, head lights won`t be as bright, gauges will fluctuate, along with many other woes that go along with it. also make sure your bolts shank heads are fully engauged into the machined area for them, if there not the starter moves and causes it to bind, also make sure you tighten the H*ll out of the bolts. my starters have all been the life time warrenty advance auto cheapies, this last one has been on the car a little over a year now and it still works like a top.
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:52 PM
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Good god man how many amps are you pulling in that electrcal system to need all that grounding.that car is grounded for a 1.2jiga whatts of lighting bolt. just kidding lol




mike
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:55 PM
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i dont think punk's problem is an electrical one, he needs to do like Rogers said and check his clearances and correct them with shims or go with the gear reduction, not saying your wrong DoubleVision just addressing his problem more straight forward with what he told us
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:01 PM
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Truth is the starter you bought from NAPA was probably rebuilt in the same shop in Mexico as the one you bought from AutoZone. Only difference being the price and packaging. You could invest in a mini/gear reduction starter if you want to part with the $$$$. With 10:1 you don't need it unless we are talking 10:1 @ 600 CI. I think you have it shimmed wrong. Also Chevy solenoids are notorious for sticking if you crank them long. If it won't start, crank it for short periods of time. Good Luck, Joe
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:06 PM
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my car had the exact same problem, after about 20 starts it would grind, bind, kick out, stick, you name it. I had tried everything else I knew to try and nothing solved the problem, when I redid the grounds my problems were over. all I`ve ever built and owned were SBC`s, I`ve not had one yet that had to be shimmed, but I`ve seen many and repaired many that there starter problems were ended by adding grounds.
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:16 PM
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Jeez...no kidding...Now that you say about the Napa starter I remember a friend of mine getting three in one year. He had problems out the wazzoo!!!!
I get rebuilt starters from the local salvage yard.....
I know the guys there very well and they do a great job. $25 bucks and they glasbead the aluminum snout, paints the case, install a new starter drive, new solenoid and check the windings and other parts.......I checked the prices...I couldn't buy the stuff and rebuild them myself for that......
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:25 PM
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I run 2 engine grounds one from the alternator bracket to the radiator support and one from the lower accessory mounts to the frame. I am a mechanical engineer so I am not going to second guess the electrical engineer that designed the wiring system in these vehicles. True, over the years the electrical systems on older rides get bastardized by people who don't know any better, but all you need is a good heavy gauge ground from the block to the frame for the starter and another smaller ground from the alternator to the battery. I usually ground the battery to the frame rather than the engine and run a heavy braided wire from the block to the frame.
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