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Old 09-15-2005, 08:29 PM
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Solenoid

Doc here,


Quote:
Originally Posted by desavedo
Hello again Doc:

First of all thanks for the reply. I only had a few minutes to look things over, but i tried firing up the car today without the "R" wire in place. Basically, it will ever so slightly make a noise down in the starter area. I don't believe i have enough voltage.

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OK, First Check all your battery terminal connections...clean, inspect and confirm tightness..

Then Check your ground system ..(the major offender in this type of problem) The negative wire From the Battery, to a bolt, at OR near the STARTER.

From that bolt run a battery cable with 3/8 ring terminals on BOTH ends, from there to the frame (cable can be had at auto parts stores or wally mart about 6 bucks)

From the very same block bolt, run 2 #10 gauge wires, one to the firewall, and one to the Alternator ground lug, or mount bolt..

If you have any electrolysis (powered white coating) on the alternator or it's mount (those are made from aluminum .. what were they thinking?) pull it all off with hardware, and sand or water blast it until it's semi shiny..when you go to remount it..get some aluminum wire bonding paste, and coat all the hardware ANY where it comes into contact with the block (steel)

Get some braided cable (rat shack..cheap by the roll) and bond the front fenders to the frame..the doors to the door posts .. the hood to the firewall..the trunk to the body, and the gas flap to the body..

Burnish ALL grease and paint off of the areas you are grounding wires, use proper Star washers (inner or outer stars) , Screws, bolts and Tech Screws along with locks..

Do this and your will have the best system for your car, that will be trouble-free for many years, AND provide RFI shielding for Audio and communication products..

While you are doing this, Charge your battery for 10 hours at a 6 to 10 amp rate..it may only be retaining a surface charge.
.

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I didn't have a volt meter, but had a test light. when the key is turned over " in the start position" the + terminal on the coil barely has enough juice to power the test light.
Is that normal or do i have a problem somewhere? Also, are you suggesting I run that "r" wire that i am currently not using from the " S" terminal that the ignition is also using, then route that to the + side of the coil?
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If you were going through a resistor, and the points were closed or the lamp filament were high enough in resistance.. the weak light would be normal..If not , then it's a problem to track down..

If you HAVE not been using it..and it ran fine .. don't even bother with it..

However, If it won't start while cranking, then yes .. get a relay, ground one side of the relay coil, run the other to, and parallel into the "S" wire..this will fire the relay when you hit "start" ...

The contacts on the relay Cw and NO will hook up to the battery or main terminal on the solenoid, and the "R" wire..In this manner, when the car is in "Start" ,( you will notice everything normally cuts off electrically during start..)The Relay will fire when you hit start, and close a set of contacts and complete a circuit between the battery, and the ignition resistor..to insure it will start in Crank mode. and subside when you let off the key..


Doc
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