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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2007, 05:01 PM
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I would consider buying a 'split ratio rockerarm set. 1.50/1.60 ratio.
Or hook up with a buddy who also will be buying rockers and order a 1.5 ratio set and another 1.6 ratio set of the same rocker arm.
Install the 1.6's on the intake side to quicken the intake valve action (rate of effective valve lift) within the same 282deg seat running duration combined with increased peak intake lift of .496" the 1.5's are fine on the exhaust side keeping the lift within a range that the crane springs will easily handle and give better valve guide life.
The 1.6's will have the most effective gain on the intake side.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2007, 05:00 AM
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Ok, thanks for the info. Here's some updates in my project from Summit.

4340 forged I-beam rods 5.7" , clearanced for stroker applications (SCA-25700)
1.6:1 aluminum full roller rockers 3/8" stud (SUM-G6906)

My friend is ordering the 1.5:1 rockers (SUM-G6905).

As soon as those parts come, I think I'll have the moving parts balanced and I will assemble it and see how it runs. Otherwise the summer will be over and the car is still in the garage in pieces Maybe I'll update some cheap items available in local shop(pushrods, valves) while waiting these new parts to arrive.

Last edited by jankinnu; 05-15-2007 at 11:16 AM.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2007, 03:57 PM
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If you order the Summit cam. Order it as a cam+lifter set by adding a "K" to the Summit cam part number instead of ordering separate Sealed power HT817 lifters. The Summit brand SBC Hyd lifters are the same and the value of the cam/lifter package from Summit is hard to beat. There are only a few actual manufacturers that make standard hyd flat tappet lifters. All the engine parts supplyers and aftermarket cam makers draw from these few companies for hyd lifters. Only the low volume production very specialized racing hyd lifters are different. (like Isky's "Superlifter" anti pump up hyd lifter.)
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Old 05-16-2007, 12:49 AM
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Yep. I forgot to mention that I ordered the cam+lifters KIT. I just separated them to the list. Sorry, my bad
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Old 06-05-2007, 03:05 PM
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I'm building the engine now. A problem came up. I don't know which way the connecting rods should be assembled. The cap bolts are not in the middle. They are slightly on the other side of the rod. Which way they should be assembled?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2007, 09:02 AM
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Problem solved. There's a fillet in the big ends or the rods and they can be installed only one way
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2007, 03:11 PM
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I did the camshaft break-in with my friend. We ran about 30 minutes at standstill with various rpms, mostly 2000rpm. I changed the oil after cam break-in and drove about 300 miles and changed the oil and the filter again.

Here's some updated for the engine parts.

I installed PCV-valve system, which improved idling alot. Now the engine compartment stays also clean. Previously the breather spitted some oil over the valve cover, not anymore.

I got new electric fuel pump from Carter. It increased the idle exhaust sounds more crispier and the throttle response became alot better. Perhaps the old mechanical fuel pump was worn out and no sufficient enough.

I had a problem after 3500rpm. The tachometer started to jump up and down and I was not able to rev up over 4000rpm. Mopar Chrome ignition box had to go along with the old ignition coil.

I purchased MSD 6AL ignition box, Accel Super Coil and Accel High Temp spark plug wires. Some sort of electric ignition conversion has been done by the previous owner on the internals of the stock GM distributor.

Now I noticed that my tachometer didn't work anymore. I have to order an additional part from MSD ( PN 8920 adapter ).

Now I'm waiting for this adapter to arrive so that I can adjust the timing correctly. Now the engine is running even better than before. It revs easily up to god nows how much rpm until I get the tachometer working. I installed 6000rpm rev limiting module that came with the MSD ignition, so I won't overrev the engine.

When I get the timing adjusted and everything working, I'll head to dyno and report the results.

I have noticed that my engine runs easily a little too hot (95 degrees Celsius). I changed a cooler thermostat (I think it was 180F/82C) but it didn't help. I have a quite large radiator, but it is single row unit. I may have to change into two-row or three-row aluminum radiator when I have enough money. I have the mechanical fan with self made fan shroud and also two electrical fans on the other side of the radiator. Another option could be to install engine oil cooler. Which is better, aluminum radiator or additional engine oil cooler?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2007, 07:19 PM
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My approach to cooling has always been the same because it has always worked for me, engine swap after engine swap.

Same or larger square area that was used originally to cool the motor from the factory.

Same or more cores that were used originally to cool the motor from the factory (not to exceed three cores in my opinion).

Copper/brass construction.

Blocking of all air passageways where the air could get around instead of through the radiator core at the front of the vehicle.

Full shroud with the radiator positioned so that the fan blades are half-in and half-out of the shroud hole.

OEM 18 inch, 7-blade steel fan.

Thermostatically controlled fan clutch.

Water pump and crankshaft pulleys sized according to what was on the motor from the factory.

180 degree thermostat.

Sufficient openings in the engine compartment to allow the exit of all the air drawn into the compartment.

Proper coolant/water mix to prevent freezing up in winter. Water transfers heat better than coolant, but some coolant must be used to prevent freezing.

In 50 years of wrenching on cars, I have never used an aluminum radiator or an electric fan and have never had a cooling problem even stalled in traffic in Phoenix on the Fourth of July.

Part of your problem could be the fans on the front of the radiator blocking cooling air from going through the core. Just a thought.

By the way, are you the same guy with whom I discussed designing and building an independent front suspension several years ago?
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Old 07-30-2007, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
By the way, are you the same guy with whom I discussed designing and building an independent front suspension several years ago?
Nope. I'm a newbie My first old project car and power train.

You gave some good advise. I'll test some of them. It's true that there is no proper exit for the heat from the engine compartment. The only way is under the car. I'm running coolant with 50% antifreeze glycol.
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Old 07-30-2007, 05:13 PM
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SBC stroker project

Electric radiator fans are more efficient if you put them behind the radiator.
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Old 08-06-2007, 11:16 AM
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I had a minor breakdown. I was accelerating heavily as I passed a truck on the road. The flywheel cover got loose or it was torn loose. Also the shell of the transmission (TH350) was cracked badly around the turbine. I was 200 miles from home, so I had to make a temporary setup by fixing the crack by drilling holes into a steel sheet and on both sides of the crack in the tranny and installing bolts and nuts into the holes. About 30 miles before home I lost all gears.

Now I'm thinking about what kind of transmission I should start saving. I'm gonna buy new engine supports also. I was told that stock TH350 cast aluminum shells can crack quite easily. I'm trying to save money for some tranny that can handle the power it's producing now and in the future when I'll buy aluminum heads.

I haven't done anything to my 9" Ford rear axle either. Any ideas how much hp/torque stock 9" rear end can handle or should I save some money for the internals of the rear end also?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2007, 12:51 PM
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It takes a lot to crack a TH-350 case. The fact that you did indicates that the case was subject to torsional stress. usually the cause is using solid engine mounts and or a solid transmission mount. Both are a no no. Another cause is a broken engine mount or broken/cracked frame.

Broken bellhousings seem to tend to come up on Small block-TH-400 combinations more than big block setups with either the TH-350 or TH-400 trans or SBC-TH350 combos. I don't know why. At any rate you need to eliminate the cause of the stress on the bell housing/case. May need to go to frame connectors and add a torque strap to the left side of the motor to limit torsional movement. Do not use solid motor mounts.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2007, 01:31 PM
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I found a broken motor mount on the right side. This is propably the cause of the torsional twist. I should have replaced them. They looked all right but it would have been a cheap insurance to replace them. Well, another lesson learned by experience
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2007, 11:45 AM
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It's been quiet in my garage. I found a used th350 tranny that is working, including torque converter. I'm planning on updating the internals. The internals should handle the power also in the future (e.g. installing aluminum heads).

Sorry, simple questions, but I am a newbie

Is this rebuild kit sufficient?
Summit racing: HUP-HP3288K
Perhaps I buy a finned aluminum transmission oil pan, or should I go straight to external transmission oil cooler?
What about adjustable modulator?

What about the torque converter, what stall speed for street? Desktop Dyno indicated maximum power at 5000-5500rpm.

By the way, it was fun to burn rubber in every gear before the minor damage happened to the tranny Perhaps I need wider tires..
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2007, 12:11 PM
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That rebuild kit looks fine. I would suggest a valve body reprograming kit (shift kit). It ungrades the transmission internal pressures and shift timing to eliminate soft factory calibrated shifts, reduce slippage and heat build up.
A Transgo Shift kit shift kit is about the best on the market. The "B&M transpak" is very good also. Do the 'stage 2" set up, not the full race version. The full race install version is full line pressure bang shifts all the time. its a little too much for the street. The stage 2 hi perf street/strip set up is plenty. Allows hard shifts at WOT yet reasonable at part throttle with increased up and down shift control. Really wakes up the tranny while increasing reliability. both these brands of shift kits retain the auto shift in Drive yet allow full control over manual shift thu the gears for racing.
retains the vacuum modulator for smooth part throttle shifts in "D"
If you want a functional "kick down" "passing gear" for passing in "D" (auto downshift) retain and hook up the kickdown cable to the carb.

I would use a 11" "3000 stall" th-350 converter. You're going to need some sticky tires to get traction. Get a inline auxillary tranny cooler. The B&M cooler is good.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-25-2007 at 12:18 PM.
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