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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2007, 04:11 PM
Rambler American -69
 
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I did the camshaft break-in with my friend. We ran about 30 minutes at standstill with various rpms, mostly 2000rpm. I changed the oil after cam break-in and drove about 300 miles and changed the oil and the filter again.

Here's some updated for the engine parts.

I installed PCV-valve system, which improved idling alot. Now the engine compartment stays also clean. Previously the breather spitted some oil over the valve cover, not anymore.

I got new electric fuel pump from Carter. It increased the idle exhaust sounds more crispier and the throttle response became alot better. Perhaps the old mechanical fuel pump was worn out and no sufficient enough.

I had a problem after 3500rpm. The tachometer started to jump up and down and I was not able to rev up over 4000rpm. Mopar Chrome ignition box had to go along with the old ignition coil.

I purchased MSD 6AL ignition box, Accel Super Coil and Accel High Temp spark plug wires. Some sort of electric ignition conversion has been done by the previous owner on the internals of the stock GM distributor.

Now I noticed that my tachometer didn't work anymore. I have to order an additional part from MSD ( PN 8920 adapter ).

Now I'm waiting for this adapter to arrive so that I can adjust the timing correctly. Now the engine is running even better than before. It revs easily up to god nows how much rpm until I get the tachometer working. I installed 6000rpm rev limiting module that came with the MSD ignition, so I won't overrev the engine.

When I get the timing adjusted and everything working, I'll head to dyno and report the results.

I have noticed that my engine runs easily a little too hot (95 degrees Celsius). I changed a cooler thermostat (I think it was 180F/82C) but it didn't help. I have a quite large radiator, but it is single row unit. I may have to change into two-row or three-row aluminum radiator when I have enough money. I have the mechanical fan with self made fan shroud and also two electrical fans on the other side of the radiator. Another option could be to install engine oil cooler. Which is better, aluminum radiator or additional engine oil cooler?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2007, 08:19 PM
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My approach to cooling has always been the same because it has always worked for me, engine swap after engine swap.

Same or larger square area that was used originally to cool the motor from the factory.

Same or more cores that were used originally to cool the motor from the factory (not to exceed three cores in my opinion).

Copper/brass construction.

Blocking of all air passageways where the air could get around instead of through the radiator core at the front of the vehicle.

Full shroud with the radiator positioned so that the fan blades are half-in and half-out of the shroud hole.

OEM 18 inch, 7-blade steel fan.

Thermostatically controlled fan clutch.

Water pump and crankshaft pulleys sized according to what was on the motor from the factory.

180 degree thermostat.

Sufficient openings in the engine compartment to allow the exit of all the air drawn into the compartment.

Proper coolant/water mix to prevent freezing up in winter. Water transfers heat better than coolant, but some coolant must be used to prevent freezing.

In 50 years of wrenching on cars, I have never used an aluminum radiator or an electric fan and have never had a cooling problem even stalled in traffic in Phoenix on the Fourth of July.

Part of your problem could be the fans on the front of the radiator blocking cooling air from going through the core. Just a thought.

By the way, are you the same guy with whom I discussed designing and building an independent front suspension several years ago?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2007, 03:39 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
By the way, are you the same guy with whom I discussed designing and building an independent front suspension several years ago?
Nope. I'm a newbie My first old project car and power train.

You gave some good advise. I'll test some of them. It's true that there is no proper exit for the heat from the engine compartment. The only way is under the car. I'm running coolant with 50% antifreeze glycol.
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Old 07-30-2007, 06:13 PM
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SBC stroker project

Electric radiator fans are more efficient if you put them behind the radiator.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2007, 12:16 PM
Rambler American -69
 
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I had a minor breakdown. I was accelerating heavily as I passed a truck on the road. The flywheel cover got loose or it was torn loose. Also the shell of the transmission (TH350) was cracked badly around the turbine. I was 200 miles from home, so I had to make a temporary setup by fixing the crack by drilling holes into a steel sheet and on both sides of the crack in the tranny and installing bolts and nuts into the holes. About 30 miles before home I lost all gears.

Now I'm thinking about what kind of transmission I should start saving. I'm gonna buy new engine supports also. I was told that stock TH350 cast aluminum shells can crack quite easily. I'm trying to save money for some tranny that can handle the power it's producing now and in the future when I'll buy aluminum heads.

I haven't done anything to my 9" Ford rear axle either. Any ideas how much hp/torque stock 9" rear end can handle or should I save some money for the internals of the rear end also?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2007, 02:31 PM
Rambler American -69
 
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I found a broken motor mount on the right side. This is propably the cause of the torsional twist. I should have replaced them. They looked all right but it would have been a cheap insurance to replace them. Well, another lesson learned by experience
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-25-2007, 12:45 PM
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It's been quiet in my garage. I found a used th350 tranny that is working, including torque converter. I'm planning on updating the internals. The internals should handle the power also in the future (e.g. installing aluminum heads).

Sorry, simple questions, but I am a newbie

Is this rebuild kit sufficient?
Summit racing: HUP-HP3288K
Perhaps I buy a finned aluminum transmission oil pan, or should I go straight to external transmission oil cooler?
What about adjustable modulator?

What about the torque converter, what stall speed for street? Desktop Dyno indicated maximum power at 5000-5500rpm.

By the way, it was fun to burn rubber in every gear before the minor damage happened to the tranny Perhaps I need wider tires..
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Old 12-08-2007, 11:25 AM
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I have been too busy to do anything for the car lately. I went to garage today and decided to spend some time with the project when I can.

About the torque converter. The most common speed limits here are 80km/h and 100km/h. Tachometer shows 2400rpm@80km/h and 3000rpm@100km/h (I checked the speed from GPS-device). Should the stall speed be lower than 2400 to prevent overheating of the tranny oil? I found these two converters from summit:

HUP-GM25
HUP-GM25HD

Is this "heavy duty" necessary?

Advertised stall is 2500rpm. The stall speed is dependent on the torque so I don't know what the actual stall will be. Is this converter good?

Here's the Summit Racing parts for the tranny (thanks FBird'88):
Rebuild kit HUP-HP3288K
Drain plug BMM-80250
Shift Kit TRG-350
Torque converter: HUP-GM24(HD)? or something else?

I try to keep my budget reasonable, so don't suggest way too expensive parts

By the way, my new old tranny has 9" tail and the old one has 6", is it just bolt-on swap? I have to change the internals anyway, so I think I will by some good repair/rebuild manual for TH350 also.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2007, 11:33 AM
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It the past summer I have seen 2 of the Eagle 383 cast stroker cranks break at the front rod jounrnal radius. I have heard that this is not uncommon for this crankshaft. Also, the Eagle SIR I-Beam rods are too unstable to keep the big end round.

Edited to add that I see you are using Scat I-Beam rods. Good choice.

tom
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2007, 12:59 PM
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I ordered these:
Rebuild kit HUP-HP3288K
Drain plug BMM-80250
Shift Kit TRG-350

I keep on studying torque converters from internet and buy it later. It is still winter here and about 6 months until I drive the car out from garage.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2008, 01:55 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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Now that the tachometer works again, I have found a problem with my setup. When I rev the engine at standstill WOT, the engine started to bog at 4000rpm. I bought vacuum secondary spring set. I tested every one of those springs and even with the tightest spring, the engine bogs around 5500rpm. If I push the gas pedal a little less, the engine revs nicely up to the rev limiter 6000rpm. It's still winter here so I can't test drive the car. What will be the situation when accelerating the car? More load, more vacuum, earlier bog?

Is my air filter limiting too much air flow? Too much vacuum? Perhaps I should install a vacuum cauge. I have now only the "RAM horn" exhaust manifolds installed because I have to modify the shorty headers due to clearance issues.

Any ideas what's the problem?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2008, 05:07 AM
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Carb is Holley 750cfm 3310-2. Choke system has been removed by the previous owner. Choke horn is still there. Here's a pic of the air cleaner. Regular 14" filter.



I measured the distance from choke horn to top of air cleaner, its 20mm (0.787inches).
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2008, 05:23 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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Carb is Holley 750cfm 3310-2. Choke system has been removed by the previous owner. Choke horn is still there. Here's a pic of the air cleaner. Regular 14" filter.



I measured the distance from choke horn to top of air cleaner, its 20mm (0.787inches).
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2008, 05:23 AM
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For good quality and not too expensive torque converters, try PTC PTC home page
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2008, 05:26 AM
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I'll guess your problem with not being able to rev might be timing. You should have about 34-36 at about 3000rpm.
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