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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 02:31 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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I decided to go with CNC-machined AFR #1034 heads (65cc combustion chamber, 195cc intake runner)


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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 11:23 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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I got some other stuff in the same delivery (gaskets, head bolt kit, spark plugs etc). I got all these from Summit. The total was about 1800USD and the total when delivered to my front door was about the same amount in different currency, 1800eur (about 2300USD).

It would have been a bit cheaper to do pay the customs by myself, but it was nice to have them delivered to my front door without any paper work.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 12:13 PM
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Just wanted to say this is a very interesting thread from start to "finnish"!! Pun intended.
Seriously it sounds like you have learned alot since the beginning through research on your own and some great advice from the good guys on this forum.
BTW, you will love those heads. I have them on my SBC and they rock.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 06:19 PM
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are you going to degree the cam? i've heard that entry level cams can be ground inaccurately..
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 06:23 PM
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heads

one of the best, if not THE best head manufacturers
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2009, 11:38 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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I have cam degree kit in my next shopping list (SUM-G1056). Will see how accurate the grinding is.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2009, 06:47 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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Can you tell me possible reason why one of exhaust valve is light brown in my old cast iron heads? The head gaskets seemed to be fine. I just installed all the new goodies.

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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2009, 03:44 PM
Rambler American -69
 
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The engine runs now like a champ with the new AFR heads. Throttle response is a lot sharper than before. At idle with gear in Park position rpms get upto rev limiter of 6000 rpm really quick. Compression is now 11.84:1 and DCR is 8.9. I'm running with 98 octane gas (98 RON equals 94 MON in USA) without any pinging. Quench is tight 0.035".

I need to buy a new distributor or try to limit advance scale. I adjusted mechanical advance to 36 degrees from 3000 and up but this leads to 12 degrees advance at idle.

I did first easy test runs. Man, this engine has a lot of torque now that it's working. The noise of the exhaust changed dramatically due to new heads and higher compression. You can feel the blow of exhaust even from 10 feet distance behind the car.

New lock-right locker in the rear end is making some noise. Will see if it gets more quiet after a while. As long as it works, I have no complaints.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2009, 03:04 AM
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I updated the distributor into MSD-8361 Pro Billet. It feels much better in the high rpm range than before. I will try to get initial mechanical advance at idle into 18 degrees. Then I can limit the max advance into 36 degrees with the largest advance stop bushing.

What do you guys think? Is it ok, if the full mechanical advance comes @ 3000rpm and stays there?
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2009, 02:47 PM
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Short video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUUPQtG_7So
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2009, 10:50 AM
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11.8:1 compression ratio was a bit too much for street. I needed to add octane booster all the time to avoid pinging.

I disassembled the engine. The diameter of the bores varied from 4.004 to 4.007". I got it bored to next size of 4.03". I changed the pistons to Wiseco forged pistons (WIS-PT025H3 ) They seem to have quite big clearance of 0.004" by the manufacturer, which should be ok for forged pistons.

Next I will check the deck to piston clearance from every cylinder and the block will be machined into zero deck. This way I can use thicker head gaskets (I had 0.015" gaskets)

My plan is to upgrade the camshaft for a bit more radical one (lift in range 0.55-0.62). Roller cams seem to be quite expensive but I suppose it's worth it, right?

I have also wanted to try double pumper carb, some 750 Holley dp should be ok, but there are so many 750cfm dp Holley models, that I need to look them in more detail.

Last edited by jankinnu; 08-01-2009 at 10:56 AM.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2009, 01:47 PM
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The setup is now missing the camshaft, here's the updated part list:

-Block bored 4.03",zero decked with flat top pistons
-3.75" stroke crankshaft, Eagle
-5.7" I-beam rods, Scat
-minus 5.4cc flat top pistons, Wiseco (~10.9:1 comp depending on gasket)
-edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold
-1 3/4" primary headers, 2.5" exhaust with see-through mufflers
-clevite bearings
-ARP bolts
-AFR #1034 195cc/65cc heads
-holley 750cfm vacuum secondary carb
-1.6:1 roller rockers
-aluminum valve covers
-MSD Pro Billet distributor
-Accel spark plug wires

Operation range should be between 2000-6500rpm. Could you suggest me a camshaft that would fit this setup? I can change the intake and carb if necessary. I have looked Lunati cam:

LUN-07103LK, 2500-6500 rpm, int/ex duration 245, advertised int/ex duration 295, LSA108, int/ex lift 0.534" (0.569" with 1.6:1 rockers)

Dynamic compression ratio should not exceed 8.5:1. Do you have any other good suggestions for the cam?

One more question. As the block is now zero-decked, should I grind the sharp edges of the cylinder holes with sandpaper to prevent detonation?
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 02:16 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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Yes the cylinder edges are chamfered but still it feels a bit sharp. Maybe it's ok.

I found a huge dyno-tested list from Ryan's car page . It has a lot of combos of sbc 383 strokers with AFR heads.

Desktop Dyno 2000 has quite rough estimate of the intake manifold. Single-plane manifold seems to boost the hp reading a lot compared with dual-plane. Maybe I will leave to later because it's easy to change.

I have had some discussions about how to support the engine + transmission with elastic mounts. I was told that I should use the stiff motor mounts in the front and more elastic transmission mount. It was also suggested to use additional motor mounts at the rear part of the engine.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2009, 05:07 PM
Rambler American -69
 
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I could get new set of hydraulic roller Comp Cams XR288HR + Comp Cams hydraulic roller lifters Pro Magnum 885-16 a lot cheaper than from the store. According to Desktop Dyno 2003 the peak hp would be somewhere between 6000-6500 rpm depending on the exhaust setup (0.555" lift w 1.6 rockers). DCR would be around 8.3:1 with this cam.

How much rod big end grinding I should be expecting with this cam? It's not small base circle cam, so who nows before assembly.

The cam selection is a huge jungle. Luckily the driving season is over and I have lots of time during the winter to think about different options.

I'm willing to set the max. rpm in the 6500 rpm range so I'm little concerned how hydraulic lifters can handle it.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2009, 09:26 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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I decided to go with mechanical roller cam with small base circle + direct lube mechanical rollers from Howards Cams:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-111313-06S/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91132/

Duration 246/0.05" and 286/advertised
0.621" lift with 1.6 rockers

I changed the cam bearings with cam bearing tool and assembled the transmission internals into new (old) transmission shell. I bought also cam degree kit.



Now I need a new timing cover + roller cam thrust button to handle the cam walk.

What do you guys think, is my 750cfm vacuum secondary holley enough or would you prefer 750-850cfm with mechanical secondaries?
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