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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 01:31 AM
Rambler American -69
 
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I decided to go with CNC-machined AFR #1034 heads (65cc combustion chamber, 195cc intake runner)


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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 02:12 AM
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Good choice

What was the total cost to get them to your door, there in Finland?
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 10:23 AM
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I got some other stuff in the same delivery (gaskets, head bolt kit, spark plugs etc). I got all these from Summit. The total was about 1800USD and the total when delivered to my front door was about the same amount in different currency, 1800eur (about 2300USD).

It would have been a bit cheaper to do pay the customs by myself, but it was nice to have them delivered to my front door without any paper work.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 11:10 AM
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Good stuff. It's hard to go wrong with the AFR and Brodix name brand stuff.
Your only problem now is going to be keeping tread on the tires.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 11:13 AM
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Just wanted to say this is a very interesting thread from start to "finnish"!! Pun intended.
Seriously it sounds like you have learned alot since the beginning through research on your own and some great advice from the good guys on this forum.
BTW, you will love those heads. I have them on my SBC and they rock.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 05:19 PM
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are you going to degree the cam? i've heard that entry level cams can be ground inaccurately..
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2009, 05:23 PM
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heads

one of the best, if not THE best head manufacturers
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2009, 10:38 AM
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I have cam degree kit in my next shopping list (SUM-G1056). Will see how accurate the grinding is.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2009, 05:47 AM
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Can you tell me possible reason why one of exhaust valve is light brown in my old cast iron heads? The head gaskets seemed to be fine. I just installed all the new goodies.

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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2009, 02:44 PM
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The engine runs now like a champ with the new AFR heads. Throttle response is a lot sharper than before. At idle with gear in Park position rpms get upto rev limiter of 6000 rpm really quick. Compression is now 11.84:1 and DCR is 8.9. I'm running with 98 octane gas (98 RON equals 94 MON in USA) without any pinging. Quench is tight 0.035".

I need to buy a new distributor or try to limit advance scale. I adjusted mechanical advance to 36 degrees from 3000 and up but this leads to 12 degrees advance at idle.

I did first easy test runs. Man, this engine has a lot of torque now that it's working. The noise of the exhaust changed dramatically due to new heads and higher compression. You can feel the blow of exhaust even from 10 feet distance behind the car.

New lock-right locker in the rear end is making some noise. Will see if it gets more quiet after a while. As long as it works, I have no complaints.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 05-17-2009, 02:04 AM
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I updated the distributor into MSD-8361 Pro Billet. It feels much better in the high rpm range than before. I will try to get initial mechanical advance at idle into 18 degrees. Then I can limit the max advance into 36 degrees with the largest advance stop bushing.

What do you guys think? Is it ok, if the full mechanical advance comes @ 3000rpm and stays there?
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2009, 01:47 PM
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Short video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUUPQtG_7So
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2009, 09:50 AM
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11.8:1 compression ratio was a bit too much for street. I needed to add octane booster all the time to avoid pinging.

I disassembled the engine. The diameter of the bores varied from 4.004 to 4.007". I got it bored to next size of 4.03". I changed the pistons to Wiseco forged pistons (WIS-PT025H3 ) They seem to have quite big clearance of 0.004" by the manufacturer, which should be ok for forged pistons.

Next I will check the deck to piston clearance from every cylinder and the block will be machined into zero deck. This way I can use thicker head gaskets (I had 0.015" gaskets)

My plan is to upgrade the camshaft for a bit more radical one (lift in range 0.55-0.62). Roller cams seem to be quite expensive but I suppose it's worth it, right?

I have also wanted to try double pumper carb, some 750 Holley dp should be ok, but there are so many 750cfm dp Holley models, that I need to look them in more detail.

Last edited by jankinnu; 08-01-2009 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 08-14-2009, 12:47 PM
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The setup is now missing the camshaft, here's the updated part list:

-Block bored 4.03",zero decked with flat top pistons
-3.75" stroke crankshaft, Eagle
-5.7" I-beam rods, Scat
-minus 5.4cc flat top pistons, Wiseco (~10.9:1 comp depending on gasket)
-edelbrock performer rpm intake manifold
-1 3/4" primary headers, 2.5" exhaust with see-through mufflers
-clevite bearings
-ARP bolts
-AFR #1034 195cc/65cc heads
-holley 750cfm vacuum secondary carb
-1.6:1 roller rockers
-aluminum valve covers
-MSD Pro Billet distributor
-Accel spark plug wires

Operation range should be between 2000-6500rpm. Could you suggest me a camshaft that would fit this setup? I can change the intake and carb if necessary. I have looked Lunati cam:

LUN-07103LK, 2500-6500 rpm, int/ex duration 245, advertised int/ex duration 295, LSA108, int/ex lift 0.534" (0.569" with 1.6:1 rockers)

Dynamic compression ratio should not exceed 8.5:1. Do you have any other good suggestions for the cam?

One more question. As the block is now zero-decked, should I grind the sharp edges of the cylinder holes with sandpaper to prevent detonation?
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2009, 01:49 PM
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Yes the freshly machined edge of the cylinder needs to be chamfered a bit.
Your machinist should do this for you with the boreing and decking operation.

I'd set up to a street solid cam at this point. Isky #201027 with 1.6 rockers
Isky #201534 w 1.6 or 1.5 rockers Isky 201525 same.

Lunati Voodoo solid. Also look at the Lunati ("NEW" street strip stuff)
These are Ultradyne Cams profiles (UD Harold) --google it-- lots of good street strip stuff there.
The comp extreme solid roller and lunati voodoo solid rollers are real good too.
A cam in this 240+duration group will want a 3500stall converter and a healthy gear.
Makes big street power yet drives well on the street.

a finished 10.9:1 is still a bit too high for the street.
After CCing your AFR heads to verify the chamber volume:
You could select different piston with a small dish.
machine a small dish in your Weisco flatties.
Work on the combustion chambers to increase the chamber volume.
Don;t deck the block quite so much. or use a thicker .051" gasket.
I'd work to keep the finished measured cr at 10.6 or less.

If you got to stick with a hyd cam consider the Comp Extreme XE284H-10 with 1.5's or 1.6 or a 1.6-1.5 split ratio. Good to 6700rpm with good springs
Shift it around ~+/-6K
great off the shelf street strip hyd.

You must check and verify cam lobe to con rod clearance. should not be an issue with the scat rods, but its up to you to check it.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 08-14-2009 at 04:59 PM.
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