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-   -   SBC stroker project, small budget (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sbc-stroker-project-small-budget-111467.html)

jankinnu 03-16-2007 04:37 AM

SBC stroker project, small budget
 
Greetings from Finland, Europe.

Here's my project details for a small-budget stroker:

sbc350 2-bolt block, 10A140296, T0224CNN and 3970014 (250hp originally)
3.75" Stroke Eagle cast crankshaft,(bobweight 1870?)
5.7" Rods
9.76:1 compression ratio pistons (Keith Black KB111, 535g+146g pin)
76cc ported heads, casting 3932441.
750cfm Holley carb. Vacuum secondaries.
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
1 5/8" Headers, "Shorty"
2x2.5" Exhaust pipes
Mopar chrome ignition box P4120534
All new Clevite bearings+gasket&water plug kits
TH350 transmission with shift kit
Ford 9" rear axle, rear end ratio 3.25 or 3.5
Car is about 3000lbs+driver

I'm planning on keeping the revs below 5500rpm. The cas is meant for cruising and burnouts during summer times(about 3 months a year).
Present camshaft has intake closing time angle of 29degrees (ABDC=29deg, ABDC+15deg=44deg).This gives me a dynamic compression ratio of 8.88, which is too much for my application. I'm targeting DCR=8.5:1 or below, so the camshaft has to be changed --> ABDC>39deg, ABDC+15deg=54deg. Comp Cams Extreme 268H or 274H would give 8.4:1 and 8.3:1 DCR. How about Crane WG1170 (Equals GM L-46)?


Questions:
-What is the weight of the stock 5.7" rods and bearings? (Small end weight, Large end weight)
-I don't have the piston rings yet. KB111 pistons are hyper-pistons and the top ring is closer to the combustion chamber than normally. What kind of rings should I choose? Should the tension of the rings be normal or light?
-Any ideas how much hp/torque I might have in this setup when it is done?

techinspector1 03-16-2007 01:42 PM

Why not buy a kit and have the manufacturer balance the whole thing? Here's a basic budget kit with short rods for USD $520.
http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-41-8-...crank-kit.aspx
Here's another with 5.7 rods and hypers for USD $695
http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-42-8-...mouse-kit.aspx
Balancing is USD $150.
Just trying to give you some options. Don't know whether you're using a 2-piece or 1-piece rear seal. I believe both the ones I've shown are 2-piece, but they also have kits for the 1-piece seal blocks.

jankinnu 03-18-2007 03:23 PM

Thanks for the links. I live in Finland, Europe. The shipping+taxes raises the price of the kits.

Anyway. I have those parts that I listed. The engine is from year 1970. The crankshaft is internally balanced 2-piece rear sealing. The balancing job is not a problem. I can have it done at low price if I don't have to add that Mallory stuff.

jankinnu 03-26-2007 10:23 AM

Thanks for the information :)

I have been checking these camshafts and they can be very confusing. More aggressive ramps may wear the cam etc and the valve spring clearance issues must be taken into account. My friend recommended me also the L-46 cam (cheap price).

I ordered the piston rings: Hastings 2M5523.

I have been porting those heads for about 20 hours and they are finished now. When the engine is assembled and adjusted and the car is finished, I will go to dyno test it to a nearby neighbor (he has own rear wheel dyno :cool: ). I will let you know how did it run.

funbiz99 03-26-2007 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by techinspector1
Why not buy a kit and have the manufacturer balance the whole thing? Here's a basic budget kit with short rods for USD $520.
http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-41-8-...crank-kit.aspx
Here's another with 5.7 rods and hypers for USD $695
http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-42-8-...mouse-kit.aspx
Balancing is USD $150.
Just trying to give you some options. Don't know whether you're using a 2-piece or 1-piece rear seal. I believe both the ones I've shown are 2-piece, but they also have kits for the 1-piece seal blocks.

techinspector have you checked this package??? not sure but i think they are selling chinese cranks in this package...(is chinese a bad thing? maybe)

jankinnu 03-27-2007 01:11 AM

I meant camshafts generally. There are lots of terms like lobe separation, ABDC, ramp intensity etc. I still have some learning to do how different camshaft profiles affect generally on performance. Lots of information can be found from the internet. I recently purchased John Lingenfelter's book about small block chevys and there is some good basic information.

Learning something new every day :)

techinspector1 03-27-2007 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funbiz99
techinspector have you checked this package??? not sure but i think they are selling chinese cranks in this package...(is chinese a bad thing? maybe)

No, have not inquired about the sourcing of these particular kits, but have used Speed-O-Motive since I was a kid. They are an old line company and I doubt they would do anything to sacrifice their good name. You never know though. Thanks for bringing up the possibility. I'll call and talk with them.

funbiz99 03-27-2007 04:28 AM

just curious i got fooled with a C.A.T crank.....for now theres no problem but it seems the board doesnt like them

jankinnu 04-15-2007 03:13 PM

Any comments on summit SUM K1105 cam+lifters kit? It is quite cheap and the cam specs are quite similar.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

machine shop tom 04-15-2007 06:53 PM

Questions:
-What is the weight of the stock 5.7" rods and bearings? (Small end weight, Large end weight)
-I don't have the piston rings yet. KB111 pistons are hyper-pistons and the top ring is closer to the combustion chamber than normally. What kind of rings should I choose? Should the tension of the rings be normal or light?
-Any ideas how much hp/torque I might have in this setup when it is done?

Stock rod weights (average) 415-420 grams big-end, 170 grams small end.

Rod bearing CB63P (STD.) 45.4 grams. Use standard tension oil rings. I prefer Hastings or Sealed power plasma moly ring sets.


tom

jankinnu 05-09-2007 10:22 AM

Some updates for the parts:
Camshaft: SUM-1105
lift with 1.5 rocker arms @valve 0.465" intake, 0.488" exhaust
advertised duration in282/ex292, duration @0.05" lift in224/ex234
intake opens 3deg BTDC closes 41deg ABDC
exhaust opens 56deg BBDC closes -2deg BTDC

Lifters: Sealed power SLP-HT-817
Valve Springs: Crane Cams CRN-99848-16

I'm planning on buying 1.6:1 rocker arms, new steel valves and forged connecting rods with arp bolts. Then I have all I need for now and further upgrades are easier (e.g. new heads).

The pistons can be installed with pressed or bushed connecting rods. Any comments on the benefits and disadvantages on these alternatives?

jankinnu 05-15-2007 06:00 AM

Ok, thanks for the info. Here's some updates in my project from Summit.

4340 forged I-beam rods 5.7" , clearanced for stroker applications (SCA-25700)
1.6:1 aluminum full roller rockers 3/8" stud (SUM-G6906)

My friend is ordering the 1.5:1 rockers (SUM-G6905).

As soon as those parts come, I think I'll have the moving parts balanced and I will assemble it and see how it runs. Otherwise the summer will be over and the car is still in the garage in pieces :) Maybe I'll update some cheap items available in local shop(pushrods, valves) while waiting these new parts to arrive.

jankinnu 05-16-2007 01:49 AM

Yep. I forgot to mention that I ordered the cam+lifters KIT. I just separated them to the list. Sorry, my bad :)

jankinnu 06-05-2007 04:05 PM

I'm building the engine now. A problem came up. I don't know which way the connecting rods should be assembled. The cap bolts are not in the middle. They are slightly on the other side of the rod. Which way they should be assembled?

jankinnu 06-06-2007 10:02 AM

Problem solved. There's a fillet in the big ends or the rods and they can be installed only one way :)


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