sbc superchargers- which one should i use on my chevy 350 - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2006, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81camaro350
hey tbucket23,
how much horse did your blower give you? how is the drivability on your car.
Even a small low boost blower will typically give you 40% to 50% more power. So if you have a 200 hp engine, you will get 300. Obviously as the base power goes up, this rule no longer holds. But for most basically stock engines, a blower will give you 40 to 50% more power.

One of the interesting things about this is that you can get this kind of increase without changing anything else. No need for a cam change or different heads. Of course, additional changes will produce even more power.

Driveability with a blower will almost always be better. A blown engine starts quicker, has better throttle response, more bottom end torque, doesn't need high rpm to make a lot of power...and on and on. I have owned a number of blown cars and in my opinion it's the only way to go. I currently have two blown vehicles; a '33 Ford 3W with a 510 hp SB Chevy and a '32 roadster with a 560 hp SB Chevy. Both have B&M 250 Superchargers on them. Both extremely streetable.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2006, 06:50 PM
23T 23T is offline
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T-Bucket 23

I just put a 671 in my bucket and was wondering what timing you are running? Also how about plugs, colder, hotter, standard. What temps are you running? Only had mine around the block a couple of times, but the new 350 sbc sure seems to have plenty of oomph for me. Please pass on any tunning tips. Thanks, Rich
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2006, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 23T
I just put a 671 in my bucket and was wondering what timing you are running? Also how about plugs, colder, hotter, standard. What temps are you running? Only had mine around the block a couple of times, but the new 350 sbc sure seems to have plenty of oomph for me. Please pass on any tunning tips. Thanks, Rich
I am in the same spot as you. I have only driven it a few times since installing the blower. I will be playing with timing and jetting at the dyno. I a have been told that blowers like advance but also detonation kills blown engines. I guess it is a fine line as is all tuning. I definatly need to fatten up my jetting a little. I have not changed the plugs yet as they have not been in long enough to get a good read on them.
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Old 02-19-2006, 10:38 AM
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I got a 6-71 on mine and I have 8-1 comp ratio with a 11-12lb pully and I called BDS and with my engine, blower size, cam,rpm's, altitude, ect... They said I would only be running around 8-9lbs of boost. They said with at least 91-92 octane fuel I would be OK.
Theres a lot of variables. Although Im wanting to drop the boost to be safe. I wont unless I find a buyer for my pully. HG

Last edited by HemmiGremmie; 02-19-2006 at 10:40 AM. Reason: goofed
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Old 02-20-2006, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 23T
I just put a 671 in my bucket and was wondering what timing you are running? Also how about plugs, colder, hotter, standard. What temps are you running? Only had mine around the block a couple of times, but the new 350 sbc sure seems to have plenty of oomph for me. Please pass on any tunning tips. Thanks, Rich
Total timing should be 34 to 36 degrees. When I was at B&M we ran numerous dyno tests playing with the timing and running either more or less than 34-36 degrees reduced power output. Generally one heat range colder than standard on the plugs works fine. My engine in the '33 coupe runs about 190 degrees temp-wise. On super hot days with lots of idling it might get up to 210 but once I start moving it drops back down.

When I first had the car running, although the mixture was ok at full throttle (as shown on the dyno), at cruise speeds it was running way too lean. This was obvious from the color of the inside of the exhaust tips (white) but I also have a rich/lean indicator on it and it was running dead lean at cruising speeds. I took it to one of the local hot rod tuning shops and they rejetted the carbs and also modified the curve on my distributor checking the results on a chassis dyno. And since they did that, the car runs like a dream. Unfortunately I don't remember the specifics of the carb jetting but it would most likely vary from car to car anyway. I am running two 600 Holley carbs
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:44 PM
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95 gmc

I am interested in Supercharging my 95 normally aspirated 350. I have my eyes on a Wyland 144, but am interested in what other items should be modified for the supercharging? I have heard that pistons and rods are recommended, but not necessary, however, the harmonic balancer is really my concern. It will be used primarily on streets, and some 4X4ing.
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:24 PM
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That would be a Weiand not Wyland. Even though that's a small blower, you need to know your static c.r., the lower the better. When you get up in the high 8's you need to limit boost significantly to avoid detonation. Cast pistons are OK for a street setup with a 144. I personally would get a solid damper, when an enertia ring lets go it's not pretty.
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Old 04-09-2014, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhianGT View Post
the harmonic balancer is really my concern
The blower belt will cancel vibrations in the crank, so there's no need to run a blower belt and a harmonic damper. Cut the crank snout for 2 keyways, 180 degrees apart.
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Old 04-10-2014, 07:11 AM
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95 GMC Yukon

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68NovaSS View Post
That would be a Weiand not Wyland. Even though that's a small blower, you need to know your static c.r., the lower the better. When you get up in the high 8's you need to limit boost significantly to avoid detonation. Cast pistons are OK for a street setup with a 144. I personally would get a solid damper, when an enertia ring lets go it's not pretty.
So the rods not a big concern for a lower boost blower like the 144 Wyland. Sorry for the spelling error, a little dyslexia. In addition, the solid damper you mentioned, is that a reference to the harmonic balancer. Sorry kind of a layman here. Thank you for your answer, an tips.
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Old 04-10-2014, 07:56 AM
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Damper, Balancer...both go in the same spot. GM connecting rods are pretty strong, and big name company aftermarket versions can be much MUCH stronger. The big concern is the cast pistons. They're strong enough to do the job, however they are relatively brittle compared to their forged counterpart. If the engine goes into a lean mixture condition for very long, it can shatter the pistons.
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