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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2010, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icelander
Well I shaved those few grams off, assembled the engine and so far two thumbs up.

This ain't no race motor but makes a decent street driver, cant feel any vibration, guess I will need to look at the bearings to tell.
Checking the bearings will be easy once a rod blows a big hole in the oil pan.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2010, 02:50 PM
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I know re balancing would have been the right thing to do, but here in the middle of nowhere we have no balancing machine

I usually buy my sets fully balanced from the US.
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:54 PM
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F-bird,

Do you mean the Scat rods aren't any better than Pro Comp ?
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Old 03-30-2010, 02:58 PM
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Terrific. I'm glad the old home-balancing brew worked for you. You had a balanced crank, and knew the weights and distribution of the original rods, so upgrading to the scats was pretty straight forward. Still -- Good work, and best of luck.

PatM
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-30-2010, 02:58 PM
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a few grams off can be closer than many "balanced" kits come. The amount of under/over balance can vary too depending on the judgment of the machinist. As long as its pretty close to what came off and they all match each other you should be fine.
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:04 PM
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Thanks guys, appreciate your credits.
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icelander
F-bird,

Do you mean the Scat rods aren't any better than Pro Comp ?
Of the two I'd prefer the Scat rod after mag inspection and resizing.

For the stuff you and I build I prefer a inspected, properly machined GM connecting rod with good rod bolts.

Chinesium is ok for intake manifolds.....well most of the time.

Ya get what you pay for.
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:24 PM
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Lunati used to make a nice, fairly low cost rod, forged of 4340 right here in the good ol' USA. It was very light in weight, and was called the Streetrace rod. I used these in my engine. They ARE horsepower limited, however the consistent American quality of the alloy steel should make them pretty reliable. Does anyone know, does Lunati still make the Streetrace series rods? Here in the states?

PatM
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:02 PM
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Rods, like the GM rods what are they're limits after resizing and good set of ARP bolts ?

Scat and Eagle are they just crap ? I have used both brands, Eagle H-beam in a competition engine and they have been in that engine for several years and still doing fine, came with a balanced kit I bought from World.

I remember one build, high reving 327 I got my self a set of Trick Flow 4340 steel rods, that engine was rpm abused many seasons then I finally sold her and she is still running strong 11 years later.

anyway when I was about to start my last 327 build I contacted Trick Flow and asked them if they were still making them, no was the answer. Because of Scat and Eagle I was told, or were they just not good enough ?

So if good set of GM rods are better than Scat and Eagle and someone needs to go to stronger than GM rods what are your recommendations if my goal is 500 hp ? GM ?

I actually thought Scat was good quality and the same for Eagle but have heard some bad things, not experienced yet..

Man I am going in circles..
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:07 PM
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IMO, you can increase your odds of coming out fine by sticking w/Scat, or even Eagle than going to PC. I'm not as convinced as some are that PC has as 'good' of a QC as the others.

Part of the equation is where you get the parts from. I'll spend a little extra just to deal w/the bigger mail order outfits, just because there no problem w/returns for the most part.

Good luck.
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:15 PM
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Thanks, most of my parts come from Summit Racing and like you said, no bull**** if there pops up a problem, I really like they're service.
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:17 AM
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I'm a little late, but here is my .02. I have a set of the procomp 4132's in a circle track motor. I didn't buy them and honestly I wouldn't have, but they came courtesy of a sponsor so I ran with them. Now, the only thing I did with these rods was upgrade the rod bolts to ARP's and verify the sizing of the rod. The set up came with a set of AFR 200 heads, 13.5:JE pistons, a 43# scat crank and a full solid roller set up (.650/.650). I have beat on this car for 3 years, commonly turning 7500-8300 rpms (depending on the track). I run short track so you are on and off the throttle constantly. I have had absolutely no problems! I tear the motor down mid season and during the offseason, the bearing look fine each time. Now thats not to say there isn't a bunch of bad procomp stuff out there, but for me, it has worked. In a street motor, I would have no problem with the PC rods, I would highly reccomend changing the rod bolts, and having a michinist look them, but I would do it. I have some expirience through my time at Summit and motors i have built for customers with alot of rods; eagle, scat, carrillo and oliver and based on QC alone, you get what you pay for. But lets face it, we always dont need a $1500 set of rods to get the job done. Words of wisdom, are ignore the mfgs ratings (there are too many variables to say "x rod will handle x power)! Get a rod that you are comfortable running (if you have ran eagles with good luck, stick with them)! Always pay a little extra for the rod bolt upgrade! and Always verify the sizing! I don't care who made the rod, check the sizing.
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Old 10-13-2010, 05:43 PM
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Scat vs Procomp vs all other suppliers

Dear Gents,
I think allot of you are being confused with manufacturing in China and the US.

Most Manufacturing occurs in China and the amount of finishing happens in the US. Scat does more finishing here, Manley has production in China, CAT, Procomp, and many of the others also have production in China. Ford, GM, Dodge etc all have overseas manufacturing.

It all comes down to finishing - Finish it here and the quality will likely be better. But not always - a Machinist recently told me he has ordered 3 BBC cranks and the Number 5 Journal is always tight.

Sound like QA at Scat needs to be tweaked. The human factor.

Consider the facts and the reality - if you are building a engine, do it right and hire a Machinist who knows their stuff.

Backyard engine builders make mistakes because it in not their profession.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2010, 09:27 PM
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Well 2Cool, the original post is 5 months old but I will make an exception just so I can challenge your statement about "backyard engine builders"

I was a Police Officer for 33 yrs. and during that time on my days off I built a lot of engines for myself and a few friends. I never once built one in my "backyard", they were always assembled in my clean garage/shop. I did my research, chose the right parts combination for the application the engine was intended for, had a GOOD shop do the machine work.... and built it.

Never had a problem...but I will admit, "some folks just don't need to be messin with engines". I'm assuming they are the one's you're eluding to because there's a bunch of non-professional guys in this good old country...and Canada that can build a healthy, reliable engine.
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