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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2010, 03:28 PM
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and you are right i didn't ee the stamped steel rockers, guess i read over it too fast
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2010, 09:21 PM
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I still wanna stick with the 327,so lets say my goal is 400 hp/400 tq. (give or take a little) at around the 5000-6000 RPM. I am guessing my block will clean up at .030 over,so that gives me a 331 CI ? I want to replace the rods for extra assurance.So I should go with some 5.7 rods vs. longer rods.
I'm leaning toward a forged set of pistons as I think a blower my find its way at a later date. Lets start again with that and go from here.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2010, 10:39 PM
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I like Schneider cams... good tech support, and the company has been around forever (it's a small company so not a lot of folks know about it).

Let them know what your build has in it and they can grind you a cam.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmecord
I still wanna stick with the 327,so lets say my goal is 400 hp/400 tq. (give or take a little) at around the 5000-6000 RPM. I am guessing my block will clean up at .030 over,so that gives me a 331 CI ? I want to replace the rods for extra assurance.So I should go with some 5.7 rods vs. longer rods.
I'm leaning toward a forged set of pistons as I think a blower my find its way at a later date. Lets start again with that and go from here.
400 hp will be more like within the 6,000-7,500 RPM range with the 327, I would think.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 01:41 PM
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with the right heads and cam you could make 400hp with a 327 at around 5800-6200 but your optimal shift point would be around 6100-6500rpm. but this isn't an outstreched goal, it is very posible, think about GM produced a 375hp 327 in the late 60's so with todays technology it would be far easier than it was back then
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Old 06-09-2010, 02:27 PM
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These are my thoughts. I would use the 64 cc combustion chamber Edelbrock performer rpm heads and intake, the Lunati 268 Voodoo hydraulic cam, and flattop pistons. This combination should put compression in the low 9 range and make good power to 6,000 rpm.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 02:34 PM
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How often are you gonna wind the motor up that high? Is this a cruiser or a drag car? You are gonna wanna make low end grunt if this is a cruiser.
Here's a link to a 500+ hp 327:
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...gineering.html

Here's your 400 hp 327:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...edelbrock.html


My87Z, that horsepower rating from the factory in the '60's was GROSS hp, not NET hp. BIG difference.
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Old 06-09-2010, 07:15 PM
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So let me get this straight- you're going to to build a 327 with aftermarket aluminum heads, aftermarket rods and pistons, headers, intake, carb, etc, then put it in your car and say it's not a cookie cutter SBC cuz it's got a 327 crank in it? If I put 327 valve covers on my AFR headed , Performer RPM manifolded, custom carbed 350 and tell everyone it's a 327 does that mean it's no longer a "cookie cutter" engine? I agree with rusto rod,set some goals for what you want or need performance wise then build to that. I realize finances could be an issue, but you can build a 383 just as cheaply as a 327. The 383 will be more fun to drive and will smoke the 327 every time. Build what you like but your 327 build is just a small cookie cutter. BTW my 35 Ford coupe with cookie cutter and 2004r auto and 9" rear weighs in at 3200lb. My guess is your Chevy will be a bit more than that.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35hotrod
So let me get this straight- you're going to to build a 327 with aftermarket aluminum heads, aftermarket rods and pistons, headers, intake, carb, etc, then put it in your car and say it's not a cookie cutter SBC cuz it's got a 327 crank in it? If I put 327 valve covers on my AFR headed , Performer RPM manifolded, custom carbed 350 and tell everyone it's a 327 does that mean it's no longer a "cookie cutter" engine? I agree with rusto rod,set some goals for what you want or need performance wise then build to that. I realize finances could be an issue, but you can build a 383 just as cheaply as a 327. The 383 will be more fun to drive and will smoke the 327 every time. Build what you like but your 327 build is just a small cookie cutter. BTW my 35 Ford coupe with cookie cutter and 2004r auto and 9" rear weighs in at 3200lb. My guess is your Chevy will be a bit more than that.
Easy there big guy, you read entirely to much into what I meant about it being a cookie cutter engine. I was simply stating the fact (in my opinion,from the shows I attend every year) and that is that you always see 350,and 383's. Is it to say that a 383 is not a more potent engine ? NO I realize that the 383 "probably" would beat me every time if my car had a twin but with a 383. I'm not out to have the fastest car in the state,BUT I am out to have decent power for the car in question. I do not know what my car will weigh in at because it came from the factory full of wood,and I am replacing that with 14-16ga. sheet,and 1x3" tube as we speak,as well as chopping it 3",replacing the fenders,and grill with 34' chevy peaces. So again I have no idea what it will weigh. For those who asked,it will be a cruiser for the most part,and a weekend ripper. The fact that most of you think I should go with a different engine to start with simply proves the point that the majority of people will simply slap in the biggest engine they can afford/fine/fits and be done with it.
I am simply asking everyone how I can get the best out of my chosen engine,for my chosen car/tranny/gearing,with the particulars that I can give at this time " max RPM/driving style" Is this enuff info for everyone ? Let that be decided by each for there own opinion.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2010, 11:21 PM
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Sorry bro, wasn't trying to read anything into the cookie cutter thing. I took your post that said "I'm all about acceleration" seriously. My logic being, don't give up torque on the street for the sake of taking your SBC out of the cookie cutter category by building a small displacement SBC. It's still a SBC and won't look any different than a 427 c.i. SBC. However, if you want to build a 327 thats all good. My87Z posted some good info regarding a 327. I'm just saying larger displacement with properly sized larger heads and cam will be easy to do if you want more power. A true 400 + hp 327 is going to have to rev high and need some pretty steep gears and thats fun if that's what you want.
Factory weight for your 36 2dr Master DeLuxe was 2850 to around 3150 lb. If this was what they called shipping weight that could mean sans bumpers, no fluids or spares. Anyway, its a ballpark. I thought it would be more because Chevs had a longer nose than a Ford due to the inline engine. Should be a good looking rod.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2010, 04:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmecord
I still wanna stick with the 327,so lets say my goal is 400 hp/400 tq. (give or take a little) at around the 5000-6000 RPM. I am guessing my block will clean up at .030 over,so that gives me a 331 CI ?
Yes, 331 cid.

Quote:
I want to replace the rods for extra assurance.So I should go with some 5.7 rods vs. longer rods.
I would go w/forged, 5.7" rods w/ARP 3/8" rod bolts (some SJ 327's had 11/32" bolts). I-beams would be fine, H-beams if you want. You could use 6" rods, but for basically no gain.

Quote:
I'm leaning toward a forged set of pistons as I think a blower my find its way at a later date.
Forged pistons would be good insurance. If you're serious about the blower, use floating pins.

IMHO, ANY size SBC in a rod is a "cookie cutter", that's not being derogatory, it's a fact because the engine and combination is such a natural. That said, I don't see the 327/331 scoring you any points, unless it were to be built to look "old school", i.e. fulie heads, dual fours or tri power, that sort of thing. Otherwise, to the casual observer, it's "just" another SBC.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2010, 06:53 AM
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35' Now I think we are on common ground,and I like that better so thax.
cobalt 327 I see your point,and thank you for your thoughts.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2010, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmecord
35' Now I think we are on common ground,and I like that better so thax.
cobalt 327 I see your point,and thank you for your thoughts.


okay so i know that we have beat around the bush a lot with the whole "cookie cutter" stuff. now back to helping you, what is it that you want, what questions do you have what is it you would like advice on or help with?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2010, 03:17 PM
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I would say that I am after an engine that is around the 350-400 mark on hp/tq. within the 6000-6500 RPM. I think with my 4:11 gears,and the t-5 camaro trans (for now) I would be able to easily keep it in its power range. I know the t5 is a weak tranny,and thats why I want the 6-speed at a later date,but the t5 will have to do me for now.I am NOT looking for a power house,lets say....I wanna run with my buddies 94' LT1 camaro with the auto tranny. He has a cold air intake,a chip,and an exhaust. Is that a possible goal ? I say the LT1 because to me it is powerful,but not a MONSTER by any means.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2010, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmecord
I wanna run with my buddies 94' LT1 camaro with the auto tranny. He has a cold air intake,a chip,and an exhaust. Is that a possible goal ?
Yes.

Using a well balanced combination of parts, you can run w/his LT1, as far as HP goes. Hooking it all up is another chapter- the Camaro will hook pretty well, but it's no lightweight. You will have to get the suspension sorted to put this all to the pavement, else there's no point in it at all.

Put as much into good heads as you can, W/o good heads, there's no point in doing the 327- it has to be able to spin right on up there, and be cammed to make power up there as well.

A solid flat tappet cam is cheap, the bottom end doesn't need to cost a fortune either. Just be sure the rods are up to the task, this is where the SJ deal gets iffy, and can run the cost up for good rods. I wouldn't bother w/the OE rods w/their small 11/32" bolts in a high revving engine. Others may disagree and that's fine.

But it is what it is, that's the price you'll have to pay for using the SJ 327.

4.11's will barely be enough gear, if the tranny has a low 1'st, this will help matters. T-5's are all over the place ratio-wise, so be sure of what you have or are getting before deciding on the rear gears. Don't be surprised if 4.56's are what ends up working better, or even 4.88's if the tires are large. If it hooks, though- you'll be hating life because the tranny will break. Not IF, but WHEN.

I'm not necessarily a fan of N2O, but it would be an easy way for getting enough power to slay the guy's LT1/F-body. I'd rather do it on the engine, I'm guessing that's your plan as well.
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