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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2010, 04:54 PM
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thanx cobalt,this is what I am after. If I could source a LJ forged crank for what I have in this one,then I would. As far as the rods go,I may go with a 6.0 rod for better piston choice,because from the research I have been able to scrounge if I run the 327 crank,with a 6.0" rod that will open up more budget friendly piston choices.Correct me if i'm wrong,im not looking at a longer rod for power now,so much as options.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2010, 05:52 PM
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As far as I know mild LT1 camaros will run in the low 13's. If your car comes in at 3,500 pounds with driver 350 hp with 4.11 gears should put you where you need to be.
I agree about the double hump heads and old school styling on the small block looking cool. However reworking a set of 40 year old heads and installing hardened exhaust seats can get into the price of a new set of heads. This is all food for thought.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2010, 10:40 AM
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i've never seen a situation where using a 6.0 rod would give you better piston choice, it has always been the 5.7 rod would offer more piston choices because that is the stock length rod. typically pistons for the 6.0 rod which will have to have a shorter piston skirt and shorter compression height are of less selection, but they dont typically cost more most times they are the same price but lighter which can be a benifit, but i wouldn't spend the money on 6.0 rods unless i was building a complete race motor, and even then i wouldn't use the 6.0 rods cause i wouldn't be building a SBC
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2010, 11:43 AM
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I would use all ARP bolts/studs

At your goal of 400HP @ 6.5K RPM, I would use a Scat 9000 series cast crankshaft (3.48" stroke). (can be found at about $225 + S&H)

I would use 5.7" Scat Forged 4340 I-beam rods with the ARP 8740 7/16" 12-point bolts. (can be found at about $280 + S&H)

I would use flat top SRP forged pistons (made by JE)


Here's some great heads, that use light weight Beehive valve springs (about $1440 + S&H):

AFR Eliminator Series SBC 195's!

AFR's All new port design, all new chamber design, new casting design and updated valvetrain! The new AFR 195 race ready head outflows the previous comeptition version head (Roughly 285 cfm out of the box!) Casting improvements include improved oil drainback, heavier duty castings and better material control. Revised valve, 8mm LS1 technology, and matching springs, retainers and locks are all standard on the new AFR Eliminator line. These lightweight components will allow a more reactive, higher rpm and more reliability. When comparing the new and old AFR style valve train the valves alone yield a 23g weight savings. This weight difference will allow higher rpm potential and will allow the springs greater control before valve float. The new 1.260" spring package allows a 40 gram weight reduction vs. the older 1.550" spring option, yet allows for the same spring pressure. When comparing the new and old valvetrain a single cylinder utilizes a 126g reduction in weight where it matters most - on the valve side of the assembly. Consider this icing on the cake with improved flow characteristics, and an improved casting on the already industry leading AFR cylinder heads.

BBP
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2010, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsmecord
thanx cobalt,this is what I am after. If I could source a LJ forged crank for what I have in this one,then I would. As far as the rods go,I may go with a 6.0 rod for better piston choice,because from the research I have been able to scrounge if I run the 327 crank,with a 6.0" rod that will open up more budget friendly piston choices.Correct me if i'm wrong,im not looking at a longer rod for power now,so much as options.
Well, the problem w/a LJ crank, is you'd then need a block to match- in which case a 350 or 383 would make more sen$e.

But if you're sticking w/the SJ 327, a 5.7" rod w/a 1.675" (or 1.671") compression height piston will be the by-far easiest and cheapest way to go for pistons and rods.

There's just not anything in your case to be gained by using 6" rods.

HERE is a list of TRW pistons as an example, showing the various dome/dish and rod lengths to let you have a better idea of what's readily available and the approximate cost.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 09:40 AM
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I am undecided on a piston... forged-vs-hyper,flat top-vs-dome ?
Cam is another thing I am wondering about. I want to have power form 1500 on up to whatever.And an L79 idle would be ok.
On other forums I have heard talk of a 30-30 cam,a LT1 cam,and then the L79 cam.But I also gather that they would probably not be hte best cam for me.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 11:40 AM
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I'm no expert on piston choice, but I would use the SRP forged flat tops or reverse dome. They are high quality & cost is reasonable. They can survive some detonation that would ruin Hypers.

I think you should search & study the squish/squeeze/quench topic.

I would have the block zero decked & use about .039" head gasket.

You want a flat area on top of the piston to come within .035-.045" of the flat area of the head at the top of the compression stroke. This causes the mixture to be squeezed over into the combustion chamber at high speed causing much turbulence, for a fast burn.

This will allow you to run a higher compression ratio and/or reduce spark advance.

I don't think you can find a cam that covers 1500 to 6500 RPM. I also would like that, but without variable valve timing, we have to either sacrifice low RPM torque or high RPM HP.

Look into Rhodes variable lifters.

BBP
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 12:27 PM
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I didnt mean I wanted the cam to pull that far. I should have clarified that the cam should pull it hardest from maybe 3500-6500,But I would like my combo to have reasonable power at an idle to the cam comes "in".
This guy has a build I thought was about rite. http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...highlight=dyno
If I were to loosely follow that build,keeping that broad flat tq. curve what could be inproved upon ?
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 03:38 PM
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In that link to the 327 dyno results: note: Some dyno's are "Happy"

Cam: Edelbrock 7102 - Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam and Lifter Kit,
it's a pretty hot cam. Advertised Duration 308 int./318 exh.

Even though Edelbrock advertises 1500-6500, I don't think it will have much low RPM power.

BBP
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK
In that link to the 327 dyno results: note: Some dyno's are "Happy"

Cam: Edelbrock 7102 - Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam and Lifter Kit,
it's a pretty hot cam. Advertised Duration 308 int./318 exh.

Even though Edelbrock advertises 1500-6500, I don't think it will have much low RPM power.

BBP

that really depends on what the duration @ 050 is, it could be in the 220's, and be what i would call a idiot's cam, but i doubt it, it is proabaly closer to the 230's-240's, either way it wouldnt really kick in until at least 2500rpm
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 04:16 PM
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Duration at 050 inch Lift 234 int./244 exh
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK
Duration at 050 inch Lift 234 int./244 exh

in a 327 that would be a pretty nasty cam, would say 3000+ to ....
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 09:41 PM
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Ya'll have me confused,are you recommending cams or just talking about different options ?
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 10:26 PM
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Reread the thread that you linked to about the 327 dyno results. The cam used is an Edelbrock 7102

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7102/

my87Z is agreeing with me that that cam is pretty hot for a 327 & would start making power at above 3000 RPM, not the 1500 RPM advertised.

Your stated goal is 400HP @ 6500 RPM. with small cubes.

Your going to have to use a hot cam like this to get there along with all the rest of the Hot-Rod parts like: good flowing heads, low mass/strong valve train, headers, good exhaust system, ignition system, intake manifold, carb, etc. etc.

Your motor will not behave well at low RPM. Cams have about 3,000 RPM power band.

Last edited by BUFFALOBILLPATRICK; 06-13-2010 at 10:38 PM.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2010, 02:39 PM
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Piston selection depends on other things. I see this as a pump gas cruiser that runs strong not a max performance vehicle. As such I would use forged flattops to keep the compression under 10:1 and good rod bolts in the stock small journal rods.
Do you already have heads?
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