I'ved scuffed my SPI Urethane primer, washed and prepped with wax and grease remover. I was ready to shoot Epoxy primer to seal, wait two hours then shoot basecoat before the wife yells..... It time to go!!....
so my question is, how long do I have to come back to it after its been scuffed and prepped to shot the sealer before I have to scuff again?
Just trying to weight my options before I tell the wife I can or cant make it.
It's a good thing to know exactly what the manufacturer says about the exact product as you are using as there are some primers that "heal" after sanding and have a much smaller window before it has to be sanded again, some only hours!
if the urethane primer sets for more than 48 hrs scuff it again. the 7 day window is for epoxy. as brian said it will heal . meaning the tooth will close up.
Thank you! I waited about 11 hours.
I primed with SPI epoxy, let set for 2.5 hours before shooting two coats of HOK white basecoat. The basecoat seems to stay gummy for quite some time. 1.5 hours after shooting two coats and 15 minutes between coats.
This is the third time I've had this happen to me. If I press hard with my thumb it'll leave indention, If I apply pressure and twist The base coat will also twist the Epoxy as if the epoxy is gummy again. It's driving me crazy!! I hope I didn't ruin the paint job again. Anyone had this experience? I'm considering never shooting Epoxy as a sealer again the same day that I apply base.
when you say you scuffed the Urathane primer ,you mean after its been sanded, right? you cant just scuff primer...using epoxy as a sealer it needs reduction to shoot the same day. why the rush? scuffing wont get out dirt stuck in the sealer or orange peel, it needs at least a light dry sanding with 400.It also sounds like your dumping the base on there. Thin coats,you should be able to see through the first coat of base then two more. The most common mistake people make is spraying a base like a SS paint (shiny)
This probably makes the most sense, and possibly what the problem is. According to the tech sheet it states to shoot 2 medium wet coats. I can imagine 3 light coats would work the best. Yes it was shinier than I expected when the base was sprayed. I waited an additional hour and forced dried it some during that hour.
The product was HOK white basecoat. never hd a problem with any other metallic base . I hate white paint!
I'm unfamiliar with this paint system but when I run across a paint problem that shouldn't be happening, the first place I look is on the bottom of the product can, especially catalysts. For an indication of the date of manufacture. There is a LOT of out-of-date product on shelves everywhere, and if you'll buy it they will sell it to you without looking. Double-check the freshness of the product and check with your supplier to find out if there are recalls on the batch numbers you have. Without fresh and good products, all bets are off. Particularly when dealing with re-coat times and with epoxy in between layers of acrylics.
Force drying.
If its cold I think the best way is to warm up the paint and car or panels FIRST then spray. spraying when its cold out is a PITA no matter what, but if its not cold let it dry on its own, you may just need to wait longer if the base is sprayed to heavy. but 24 hrs should be enough.
just don't try to do it all at one time. use a high solid clear and only spray 2-3 heavy coats and let it cure for a day or two, then sand it with 800 and shoot 2-3more and your done. or repete as many times as you want but let it cure in between coats and it'll look like glass
Deadbodyman, Always great advice. Thank you!
I ended up doing a total of 7 1 coat of epoxy sealer, 2 coats of orion silver base, 2 coats of small flake using HOK flake karrier, 7 coats of kandy, and 2 coats of clear. I a week I will sand with 600-800 and 3 more coats of clear.
My arms hurts from all the coats but I feel like I can conquer any paint know given the experience got from this project..
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