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Old 02-29-2012, 01:37 PM
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Seal or not to seal

I am restoring a small pickup, Isuzu diesel. I have been using a single stage urethane. I am a beginner. This stuff has given me fits. I get runs and fish eyes. then I sand it dull and respray the bad spots. Then I sanded the whole truck flat and was planning on fixing the spots where I sanded through, then sand them flat. I wanted to spray clear over it all. Righr now I am ready to spray my last screw ups in white and sand them down,then clear coat. But I got an idea. Can I just spray the whole cab in a white basecoat then clear coat. I am tired of sanding my screw ups in the white urethane. If I can, do I have to put a sealer on the white urethane before the base coat? The paint that I am thinking about using is a base coat made by PPG. It is suppose to be better than Omini. I think he said on the phone it was Shimmin or something like that. Is that stuff any good? I sprayed the white urethane last summer it has had plenty time to dry.

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Old 02-29-2012, 02:09 PM
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Runs are gun adjustment and technique. Try shooting some paper on the wall until you get the pattern to shoot wet and slick..Fisheyes are contamination in the lines or gun..have you ever used an oiler on your air lines? if so replace them as the oil never comes out once it is in..you may also have used some wd40 near the car at some time and that stuff will cause fisheyes..Clean is the name of the game when painting..A good scrubbing with dawn dish soap, hot water and then w&g remover should solve the issue..Then sand and reshoot..

Sorry for the problem
Sam
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
Runs are gun adjustment and technique. Try shooting some paper on the wall until you get the pattern to shoot wet and slick..Fisheyes are contamination in the lines or gun..have you ever used an oiler on your air lines? if so replace them as the oil never comes out once it is in..you may also have used some wd40 near the car at some time and that stuff will cause fisheyes..Clean is the name of the game when painting..A good scrubbing with dawn dish soap, hot water and then w&g remover should solve the issue..Then sand and reshoot..

Sorry for the problem
Sam
Thanks for the quick answer. I am going to do just that, scrub, sand wipe it down and spray base coat on it then clear coat. I alreadt have the SPI clear now to find a decent base coat. Thanks
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Old 02-29-2012, 03:43 PM
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TRy a small spot with base coat somewhere thats not seen frist. Some single stages will lift if you put base coat on them.
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:39 PM
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Thanks I will do that behind the cab. The bed is not on the truck and the spot won't be seen once I install the bed. So I need to mix up just a small amount to do a test. If it starts to lift or peel what next? Spray a sealer on it?
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Old 03-01-2012, 06:28 AM
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Go back with a single stage paint and you can clear coat over that if you want.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:55 AM
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I have given up on the single coat. I have had too much trouble with it. It was a cheap paint to start with.Only $42 for 1 gallon with catalist. I shouldn't have been such a tight wad and bought a better paint. I'm a retired welder and wanted to hold the cost down. Heck I done bought 5 or 6 spray guns trying to get it right. I had a Devilbliss GTI, like new, only used once. Then I bought a cheap harbor frieght, next a Kobalt from Lowes, then a cheap Lee's from a pawn shop, new though. Next a devilbliss Finishline with a no. 7 tip, next a no. 3 tip for the Finishline. I guess I became a spraygun nut. Since I found this site I have learned a lot. Mainly it ain't the gun it is the operator, pluss the quality of the product you are using. Now I want to try something else. I have most of it sanded flat except the edges. I am going out and sand that today. I have some Nason base coat ordered. As soon as the weather gets right I am going to try my luck with that. Then the SPI clear. Any good tips? I sure could use them. Don't say take it to a body shop. It is like a hobby to me and a challenge. It's a love hate relationship. When my wife gets home from work she can tell how things went with the paint job just by my attitude. Good luck guys thanks for the help.
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:43 AM
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If all you need is a recoat over a nice sanded finish you could get by with a couple quarts of paint for sure if you plan to clear coat.I would go with a better brand name like ppg concept give it two thinner coats or untill covered. Don't lay it on so heay and wet just try to get it nice and smooth and cover with no runs and as little peel as possible dont worry that much about gloss if you going to clear. Give it a couple hours or so to set up good also the same between coats on color don't rush it let your frist coat setup good. Then give it 2-3 coats of clear now when dry you can sand and buff if you want when dry good. Just the way I would do it but I've been at this game for 40 yrs and painted more cars than I want to remember.
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:12 PM
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catalist

I got 2 quarts of Nason base coat and the reducer. I got a guy at a body shop to get it for me from O'Rileys, so I saved some money buying through him. When I got home and started reading the instructions on the paint it called for catalist but there was none in the box. I went back to the shop and he said he never uses the catalist in any of the base coats he uses, says it makes it spray lousy. They were cleaning up a black mustang he just sprayed and it looked great, no catalist. He fixed my wife's 97 Lexus a few months ago after Pappa John's pizza delivery guy rearended it, $6900 worth of damage, and it looks like new, no catalist, but not Nason base coat said he used a more expensive paint and it is guaranteed as long as I own the car. Have any of you guys heard of leaving out the catalist in the base coat? I hate to leave it out but he swears by it. So I guess I will leave it out too. Thanks for any ideas on this. Ron
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:31 AM
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On the Nason base coat, my two paint suppliers haven't either sold a half pint of catalyst in years. It is important if you're doing a repair that might potentially need warrantied but according to my paint guys that's about it. Even Chromabase calls for a catalyst but I never sold it twenty eyars ago when i sold paint and my paint guys give me the same story for it. I'm certain DuPont has their reasons for the catalyst but i haven't used it in ages unless I'm spraying single stage material, then it has to be actvated and catalyzed.
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:28 PM
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Nason is my cheap base of choice. In fifteen years of using it I only used the cat once and I didnt like it ,cant remember why but your guy is right...dont use it. it works fine,even better without it
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:23 PM
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thank you post it,Heck I done bought 5 or 6 spray guns trying to get it right. I had a Devilbliss GTI, like new, only used once. Then I bought a cheap harbor frieght, next a Kobalt from Lowes, then a cheap Lee's from a pawn shop, new though. Next a devilbliss Finishline with a no. 7 tip, next a no. 3 tip for the Finishline. I guess I became a spraygun nut.
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