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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2011, 08:29 AM
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So when I'm taping off an area to shoot primer, I should leave more "panel"area exposed and feather off the edge with the gun. I suppose the excess primer just comes off when you sand with 600 for color? Good call on the trunk lid also, I think I will see how well it matches, but I am going to blend the door for sure to start then if its real noticeable I will scuff the trunk and blend later. I'm using shopline paint so id probobly be ok with the dbc500. Thanks everyone. Ill post some pics

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2011, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubjel
Definetly go into the door; look at dead bodymans pictures; you'll notice when he blends he slightly mists the basecoat into the adjacent panel; going a little farther & lighter each time. I always use dbc 500 when blending; I think the base just lays better and this makes for an easier blend & when using the blender I just use a red scrunge on all panels because the blender is nothing more than a clear basecoat. Like they say you don't have to use a dbc 500, but if you don't, definetly get the gray scrunge & scrunge the door.
What he said. With DBC500 it just lays out much better imo. I think it's a must for metallic color blends, since it helps lay down metallic.
Usually if you're painting whole car, a painter will lay down a coat over entire car (DBC500) It helps metallic lay down more even.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach1460
Actually on second thought, should I NOT mask off the passenger door (see pics above) and use a red scuff pad and spray 6-10 inches into the door too?
I dont have a grey scuff pad, I can get one in the am...
On a solid color you might get away with red scuff pad, however I was painting black fender and I could see all the scratches from it, so I would advise to use gray with some sanding paste.
All you do is put some of sanding paste on your wet scuff pad and you just scuff panel/blend area thoroughly. It will leave scratches equivalent to 800 grit, which is perfect for blend.
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Old 08-06-2011, 12:10 PM
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Alright, im on my third coat of base, i can see some very small sand scratches still so im going to do one more coat, I think i did my first two coats a little thin and dry. So far it looks good in my opinion but there is a slight difference in shades from the PPG shop line to what was still factory on the door. Maybe when things dry up and I get some clear on it it will be closer. One quick question, when im done with my clear after it dries for 2 hours should I put the car into the driveway for sunlight its a super nice day here blue skys and by the time im done will be about 85. And let it sit in the sun all day??

Tech sheet says
AIR DRY:
dust 10-15
tack 50-60
tape 2-4
polish 6-8 hours'

im using a very slow hardener...
Heres the first coat of base by the way, its a little thin but Im on coat 3 now and it looks much better
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2011, 02:15 PM
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Well i knew id run into a problem eventually ( this was going to well too)
On my second coat of clear some of the dried blue paint blew off the plastic and landed right on the fresh clear while I was painting.

Ill have to get some 1000-1500 grit to fix these im sure (which I dont have on hand of course) So after I pick up some sandpaper should I just use a small piece and lightly sand out the junk using my finger or should i sand a small area around each piece of junk?
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Old 08-06-2011, 02:23 PM
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that's why you should put at least 12" paper around area you're painting.
You live and learn.
This shows that painting/bodywork is not as easy as most people think it is. There's tricks to this trade as well as any other one.
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Old 08-06-2011, 03:05 PM
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Well said, should I wait a couple days before I sand them out?
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Old 08-06-2011, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach1460
Well said, should I wait a couple days before I sand them out?
read product data sheet on how long to wait before sanding. Just be careful not to sand through the clear

Last edited by mitmaks; 08-06-2011 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:10 PM
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It doesn't say for sanding only what i listed above, I went ahead and got some 1200 & 1500 paper and tested one little "piece of junk" and it sanded out fine so I went ahead and got all the crap off the panel. Its been about 5 hours since I sprayed the second coat of clear, am I ok to use wax n grease remover on clear coat this fresh? Id like to do two more coats tonight and be done.
It does say Recoat 8 hours or overnight.. Not sure what that means though.
It does not say how long I have (maximum) before I need to scuff either...

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Old 08-06-2011, 06:15 PM
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You can wet sand clear with as course as 800grit, especially you'll be putting on 2 more coats. Of course be careful not to sand through.
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Old 08-07-2011, 07:43 AM
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Since I got my junk out, its been 17 hours since I sprayed, (after some confusion on the recoat time on the tech sheet, which was 8 hours ) to spray more clear can I just use red or grey scuff pad or should I go 600 wet?
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2011, 04:51 AM
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The recoat window is how long you can go without resanding again, maybe it should be called a "redo" window. When you spray your base wait 15-30 between coats same with the clear. Once you start you keep on going until its done.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:52 AM
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I ended up waiting a day and wetsanding with 1200. Shot two more coats of clear and she came out great. Heres a picture. I was pretty confused about the term "recoat" now ill forever know. I proobly could have shot two more coats after sanding my junk out. I didnt get one run and the orange peel is very light. Im not even going to sand it down or buff it because the panel i just painted looks better than the rest of the car, hahah Thanks to everyone for all there knowledge and support, man i learned a lot.
Where I blended into the passenger door turned out great, barely noticeable, the trunk lid i did not blend and the new quarter is a shade lighter but I knew it wasnt going to be a perfect match when i went with the shopline paint anyway. I have plenty of paint left over so i may take the rack off the trunk, fill the holes and paint the deck lid too. After I take down my paint booth and mud/tape my garage before winter I may get started on my 92 bronco. But if winter comes to soon ill have to wait till spring cause i defintately need the 4x4 where I live.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2011, 12:00 PM
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The last pic is the quarter on the right and trunk lid on the left. In bright light they look great but in the dark garage you can tell the quarter is a shade lighter.
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:45 PM
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It turned out decent, it's your first paint job right?
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