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Old 08-01-2011, 12:21 PM
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Sealer over blended panel

Since you don't sand sealer, if your using it over 2k primer how do you apply it without an edge? let me try to explain better...
If you are doing a spot repair and have the existing paint feather edged, and after blocksanding to level the 2k with the paint, how do you apply sealer? Because if you tape off your panel the sealer will be over your existing color...? Next project will get epoxy first but for now how does a guy go about this?

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Old 08-02-2011, 06:54 AM
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simple,dont use a sealer.....the primerd area is sanded with 320-400 then scuff a little farther out with a red pad ,the rest of the panel is gray padded...apply a couple of coats of base to the primerd (320)area only,this will color the primer and fill the scratches (like a sealer)...If you've sanded the whole panel with 320-400 you cant do a blend ..

Last edited by deadbodyman; 08-02-2011 at 07:09 AM.
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:03 AM
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As dbm said dont use a sealer. But I have wet sanded with 400 and been ok. Say your going to paint a fender and blend the door. I've wet sanded door with 400 wet and dry then scuffed with red scuff pad and blended the door and cleared the whole panel. Just be sure to give it a lot of time between coats so you don't get sand swelling.Put on enough clear so if you want you can sand and buff.
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:32 PM
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So for "prepping" already painted panels or blending I should wet sand with 400? Im posting a pic(s) of the project im working on, im ready to shoot color after just a little more sanding that im unsure of.

the second pic has a definate tape line at the body line and the first picture is feather edged (near convertable top)

Should I use the 400 grit wet as mentioned above to knock down the primer line and blend the color into the lower panel???

Or I think i have read that people just use red scotch brite to scuff the clear of the panel they are blending into..? I would imagine the 400 would be better. let me know what to do guys.

( i really bit off -not- more than i can chew but almost! with this little project but its been a blast and has turned out great so far)
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Last edited by Mach1460; 08-04-2011 at 04:35 PM. Reason: forgot some stuff
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Old 08-05-2011, 10:14 AM
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Anyone? Maybe I should put this as a new post
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Old 08-05-2011, 10:36 AM
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What I did is I've wetsanded with 400 and then went with 600. Blend area I've used sanding paste and gray scuffing pad.
Once prepped I've shot couple coats of paint just barely past the primered area and then followed with more coats (w color blender) onto blend area.
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:35 AM
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That looks like it came out real nice. I don't know much about the blender stuff your talking about though. Ive seen it on a you tube video, is it a clear type material? But basically when I spray, my color goes just past the 4-600 grit existing color/clear?
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Old 08-05-2011, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mach1460
That looks like it came out real nice. I don't know much about the blender stuff your talking about though. Ive seen it on a you tube video, is it a clear type material? But basically when I spray, my color goes just past the 4-600 grit existing color/clear?
This is Deltron 2000 base. They sell a quart of this Color blender for like $50.
You reduce it 1:1 with applicable reducer and then add this mixture 1:1 to already reduced base (which is reduced 1:1 with reducer also)
I think I did 2 coats when I blended. Basically shoot one coat of this mixture past blend edge, let it flash. Proceed with 2nd coat even farther from blend edge....
They also have clear coat blending agent. It's a rattle can and you just spray couple coats over dry edge where your clear was blended, it will just melt into old clear.
And color blender is DBC 500
http://www.bapspaint.com/docs/psheet...tron/P-176.pdf

Last edited by mitmaks; 08-05-2011 at 11:47 AM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 02:37 PM
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I just shoot 3 coats of base over the repaired area. Each coat covers 4" or so more area all the way around then the previous coat. 3 times and its always been ready for clear.

say the area is 1 ft square that is repaired, the first coat will go on 20x20, second coat 24x24, 3rd coat 28x28.

I have never found the need to spend money on base coat blenders.
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Old 08-05-2011, 06:33 PM
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I just use the basics too.but something that can really come in handy is a blend prep..You use it with the gray pad for scuffing the clear and getting it really clean. You can get by with a fine cut rubbing compound and be sure to clean it with W&G really well before you paint
I found some pics that might help you to see the blend area (look at the paper & tape) so you can see how its feathered back.
This is Nason base (cheap stuff) blended in to the original paint.First I went around and put two coats on my primer spots to get it the same color,then I gave everything sanded with 320 three coats.the door got base about 1/3 of the way red scuff (blend area) to 1/2 way and gray scuff with the blend prep the rest where its just clear.The whole purpose of blending is to make any difference in color so gradual it cant be seen.if you just painted the fender you could tell the difference easy.
Being your new to this you should keep it simple just base and clear ,maybe some compound where just the clear will be but thats it
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 08-05-2011 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:44 PM
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Thanks for all the great info guys and for posting the pics (its good to see proof that people know what there talking about--- Tomorrow morning ill be getting started sanding and hopefully have her painted by around noon. Im going to try what Old Fool said for now since im new and it seems fairly straight forward and its one more thing I dont have to buy. As I progress and I do a vehicle thats worth while (this one is my commuter car) ill get a little more in depth. Ill be sure to get some pictures and post them up tomorrow afternoon.
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:55 PM
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Actually on second thought, should I NOT mask off the passenger door (see pics above) and use a red scuff pad and spray 6-10 inches into the door too?
I dont have a grey scuff pad, I can get one in the am...
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:18 AM
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Definetly go into the door; look at dead bodymans pictures; you'll notice when he blends he slightly mists the basecoat into the adjacent panel; going a little farther & lighter each time. I always use dbc 500 when blending; I think the base just lays better and this makes for an easier blend & when using the blender I just use a red scrunge on all panels because the blender is nothing more than a clear basecoat. Like they say you don't have to use a dbc 500, but if you don't, definetly get the gray scrunge & scrunge the door.
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:21 AM
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You can wet sand with 600-800 instead of a gray pad but what about the deck lid??? dont you want to blend that too..Or you can just paint the 1/4 and see how well it matches,it might be good enough. You can always do the blends at a later date.
In the future try to avoid hard lines in your primer from masking,they're a mother to sand and always show a ghost line after you paint.Feather the primer just like you feather paint. You'll achieve a more harmonious outcome.
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:38 AM
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I forgot to mention that dbc 500 is used when using ppg basecoats; don't know how it reacts with other paint manufactures basecoats.
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