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Old 04-11-2007, 04:47 AM
TBD TBD is offline
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Sealer Q

I am going to be tackling my first panel painting. I am going to use SPIs Epoxy Primer, most probably the gray color. I will then be topcoating with Black, GM color code 41.

Since I am spraying black over gray, I do not believe that I need to shoot a coat of the SPI sealer. Is that correct? I have also read where some folks thin down an epoxy primer to use as a sealer. Can the SPI primer be used in that manner?

I am confused about which SPI product to use as my topcoat. I think I want the single stage product, but I am not sure.

Can I source a different brand of topcoat locally? Would I have to worry about recoat times or the two products reacting?

Sorry about all the questions, but thanks for any advice you can provide.

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Old 04-11-2007, 05:00 AM
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Epoxy makes a great sealer, and reducing the SPI epoxy is the way to go IMHO.

If you are panel painting on a vehicle that has BC/CC, I would recommend using BC/CC on the panel you are painting.

Aaron
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Old 04-11-2007, 05:48 AM
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Ditto to what Aaron said.
If you prime with epoxy you don't need a sealer.
(SPI has a black epoxy that would be good for under your black topcoat)

Once the epoxy is cured, you can topcoat with any brand
basecoat or single stage paint. (Epoxy loves everybody)
Just be sure to pay attention to the epoxy recoat window.
(Topcoat SPI's within 7 days and you don't have to sand it first.)
Other brands may be different.
I prefer to sand it a day or two after cureing, just to get a
really smooth base. (I usually wet sand with 400)
But you don't have to.
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:10 AM
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TBD, if you want a fresh sealer down just before your topcoat, you can reduce the epoxy up to 35%, spray one medium wet coat, then let it flash for an hour, then shoot your base right over it and never touch it.. Then once the base has flashed you can shoot your clear over that..

If you have the epoxy down as a primer now and dont want to shoot a fresh coat, then you can sand with 400 or 600 and then spray base over that.. Its up to you and what you want to do

If you already have the grey epoxy I would not spend anymore money and buy black.. Your black base or single stage will cover that grey in a couple of coats easy so no biggie there either..


Happy spraying
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Old 04-11-2007, 04:40 PM
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This is great information. I see that SPI only offers a urethane reducer. Is the urethane reducer compatible with the SPI 6600 epoxy?

If I call SPI can I get a mass mixing ratio? I have a decent scale and figure I could be more accurate by mass than volume.
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Old 04-11-2007, 05:04 PM
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As far as reducing the epoxy, you want to use the urethane reducer for the temp you are woring in. As far as the mixing, there is really no reason to need to mix it on a scale. The epoxy is mixed 1:1 with parts "A" and "B", and then mix in the reducer. If you use a mixing cup, the markings are plenty accurate for those needs.

Aaron
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:48 PM
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be sure if you add reducer to lmix well and let it sit in the mixing cup for 20 minutes then stir again before spraying.. use the urethane reducer.
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:57 PM
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The induction time helps for better sprayability and also cure time. I reduce it 20-25% and lay down one THIN coat when using it as a sealer, definately wait at least one hour before applying paint-you have up to 7 days, overnight is optimum IMO.
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Old 06-06-2007, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddbob
The induction time helps for better sprayability and also cure time. I reduce it 20-25% and lay down one THIN coat when using it as a sealer, definately wait at least one hour before applying paint-you have up to 7 days, overnight is optimum IMO.
So to make sure I understand, induction time would be the time the epoxy/catalyst/reducer mixture is allowed to sit after mixing and before spraying?

How does letting it sit improve sprayability? Fwiw I am all about improving sprayability, lol .
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Old 06-06-2007, 04:34 PM
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epoxies dont like to mix together easily like urethanes. it makes the epoxy spray better because when you let it sit, it gives the 2 components time to actually react with one another and become truely mixed together. even though you can mix the 2 parts and spray right away its always best to let set up for 20 -30 min.
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Old 06-06-2007, 08:12 PM
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Especially if you have reduced the SPI epoxy.
I have mixed just the A & B and shot it almost immediately with good results.
Reducing it seemed to "confuse" it a little more and the induction time is good insurance. Still, I have mixed the 3 and went after it with good results.
Only "real" issue using SPI epoxy is temp conditions. 65* is the bare minimum to spray at but 70* is as low as I will shoot at. Epoxy cures from heat generated by the B part not evaporation like regular paints so ambient & metal temp IS critical. Reducer only plays a small part in it's curing so don't go thinking more/different reducer will help or quicken cure time.
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