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Old 01-12-2011, 10:35 PM
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sealer question+more

hi guys new to this forum.found it and browsing thru it found it to be extremy knowlagable(sp?)and great answers.
the other forums i was on never answered questions and if they did it was always "i did this"im looking for facts and proper procedures i want a perfect job and not have to redo anything.i did body work 20 years ago and was good at it but none since so its all new tech.this is a father son job and my sons iroc is next.we are helping each other.
im doing a rotissarie frame off to my old 79 camaro.cars bottom has been epoxied after sandblasted then 2k and all blocksanded,i have the final sanding left underneath with 320 but im going to breakthru in tons of places from all the bumps etc.whats the best way just touch up the burn thru with epoxy and paint or seal it and paint.if i seal it whats better using epoxy as a sealer or 2k as a sealer?does paint stick better on a wet on wet with sealer?
same as all my chassis parts are all block sanded and theres lots of burn thrus.im ready for paint as soon as im done final sanding.
also i ordered eastwood ceramic chassis paint.is this any good for durabilty?
also all parts underneath that came steel was epoxied and painted with cast refinishers paint.is it better to clear these parts over the paint?
thanks guys im looking forward to a great forum here

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Old 02-04-2011, 12:45 PM
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sounds like a concours job!

On the concours cars I use ppg products like zink oxide on sand blasted frames before I shoot semigloss black, ppg is costly! For my customers on a budget I use TRANSTAR 2k epoxy/primer tinted black [grabs bare metal very well, goes on heavy, fills very well, hard to sag, lays down smooth and is scuff or no scuff paintable , its hard to sand through when applied at three wet coats, dries semi gloss and when tinted black may pass as finished frame paint if its not a concours car!] I also use sikkens color build plus but again COSTLY! Make sure you use a good mask at the least a lot of materials will kill you quick compared to 20 years ago!!! some are absorbed through the skin also!!! Hope this helped. Im not on line every day but i do check in once and a while> good luck Eastwood ceramic is great hemmings recomends it! And I just used it on a 65 Impala. I do not use clear on cast painted parts, i use semi gloss clear on clean or new cast parts that are to remain natural. I clear brake lines too

Last edited by painted jester; 02-04-2011 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 02-04-2011, 01:40 PM
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TAKE A KID TO A CAR SHOW
 

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transtar 2k epoxy primer/sealer paint adhears good wet on wet or dry & scuffed. You can shoot wet on wet in 1 hr. 1 gal. when mixed 1 part primer/sealer 1part hardener and 10 percent reducer makes over 2 gal. of epoxy sealer.When mixed as a primer it makes more. its also excellent for vette bodies, or any fiber glass.
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:16 AM
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I use SPI epoxy its the best sealer I've ever used and the best epoxy primer too.but thats just an opinion of a brand ,everyone has thier preferances.just stick with an epoxy and you'll be fine just make sure it can be reduced to a sealer...
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Old 02-06-2011, 08:26 AM
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Another vote for SPI epoxy I have never seen a negative review from anyone that has actually used it.

Vince
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