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Old 01-17-2006, 01:34 PM
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Sealing front and rear window channel question

Hey everyone, thanks to all your help I have finally finished painting my olds and she is back on the road cept for one thing. I cleaned out the rust and filled with fibreglass a few spots where it was rusted out around the front and rear windshields (that little channel that gets covered over with chrome) and dont wanna have rust in there again, and the resulting leaks inside the car. I have seen cars with gaskets that go around underneath this window chrome, but i doubt i can find one for mine. The idea was to then black silicon the hell out of that channel and put the chrome on and trim off the sqeezed out silicon. Now this will either keep water out 100% or trap it in the channel (which is worse). What have you guys done to remedy this in the past?
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Mark

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Old 01-17-2006, 10:11 PM
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DO NOT FILL THOSE CHANNELS WITH ANYTHING! That is a DEATH SENTENCE for those channels.

You HAVE TO remove the glass and repair the rust and paint the area. Of course the proper way is to leave the "pinch weld" in epoxy primer over bare metal.

You really should urethane them in as original but you could "butyl tape" them in as well. On an older non unibody car it is acceptable.

Brian
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Old 01-17-2006, 11:59 PM
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I read your article on butyl tape before I posted. I did repair and paint the channel, it just goes against my grain to watch water pool there so well. There was some kind of sealent that was there when i removed the chrome originally. Felt like rubby. Ive seen older cars with gaskets that go around the window. I just hate the idea of all that effort, only to let the water still pool there.
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Old 01-18-2006, 01:17 AM
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If it is painted properly, it really doesn't matter. If you fill it up with sealant, it WILL rust again, SOON.

You could put a drain at each corner, I did that in my brothers 64 Riv and that worked very well. I used a piece of flared brake line about three inches long. I just drilled a hole in the corner, dropped the tubing thru so the flare held it from falling thru. I then put a tack weld with the MIG and sealed the remainder with seam sealer. Put a rubber hose from the tube to out the bottoms of the quarters, worked like a charm.

You refer to "rubber seal" that other cars have, that is right, OTHER cars may have it. If yours has a urethane type sealant, THAT is it, that is how your car was designed and there is nothing else you can do.

Brian
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:37 PM
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well its got some sort of caulking partially in there in some places but not in others. Those drains sound like an awsome idea, I guess I will do that.
Thanks
Mark
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Old 02-20-2006, 11:14 PM
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Silicone? Butyl tape? Don't do it!

Silicone and butyl tape are both horrible products to use on auto glass. (Not to mention illegal in many cases). If you want rust, these are two products that will get it for you. Both will work loose over time and collect dirt and moisture.

Butyl tape will also get soft on hot days and your glass will sink over time, squeezing the butyl inside the car.

Go to your local glass shop and get enough Essex U418HV urethane to do the job. This is the best auto glass urethane on the market, hands down. I use it to glue all kinds of stuff.

If you have never done an installation before, it would be a good idea to get a reputable glass shop to handle it for you. Imperfections in the procedure will really look like **** when the job is done.
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