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Old 05-04-2013, 07:45 AM
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Seam Sealer

There are a number of experienced professionals here and I need help.
This is a 1930 Model A body. Media blasted (garnet), hand sanded, washed with SPI 710 wax&grease, 80 grit DA'd, washed again, set in the sun for 2 days, and then sprayed with SPI epoxy primer.
I wanted to set the gas tank (cowl) in tooled seam sealer as well as sealing the top of the drip rails.
The next day, we set the tank and sealed the drip rails with 3m 8505 JUNK as recommended by the local paint supplier. One more day and 2 coats of SPI high build.
Two weeks later the 3m is cracking in the 1/8" seams and I have spent 2 days digging this junk out of the seams.
I will clean and sand with lacquer thinner and then w&g and then epoxy the open seams.
I need a recommendation for the BEST seam sealer for this application.
I need something that is non shrinking, and sandable (does not ball up like hot bubble gum when touched with the sanding block). This junk blew bubbles in the under side of the model a visor edge after sitting for a week!
Many thanks for your help. Maybe Evercoat 6022 epoxy???
Thanks again

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Old 05-04-2013, 10:52 AM
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You won't find many sandable seam sealers, I don't know of any personally.
I have good results with 3M Flexiclear 08405. It dries to rubber like substance and doesn't shrink or crack. If I need to smooth it out, I wipe it with acetone while it's still fresh. It gives me nice clean bead.
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:07 AM
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Pliogrip #6, nonsag, sandable 2k, doesn't dry hard (it will feel hard when it's dry but not brittle). Be prepared to shell out $$$$ though. Pliogrip makes the 3M gun as well, only the Pliogrip gun is a lot less costly. The benefit is the Pliogrip gun will accept either Pliogrip or 3M 2k sealers. Most other brands you can only use their specific brand in their own gun.

1967 Mustang Restoration: Seam sealer
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:23 AM
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A suggestion. Use the regular woven welting that Ford originally used and available at any resto store like MAC'S, bolt it back in place plus use the OEM style cowl clamps. Lastly, use the 3M strip sealer inside just to be sure.

These cowl clamps are often discarded somewhere along the line as they are a real bear to reinstall. This is from my car and with a no tank replacement cowl cover:

The drip rails - no idea as I have a roadster
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:42 PM
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Irelands child: After seeing this done and the rust inside of the original welting I decided to set the tank/dash in sealer. At this time there is no going back since the tank and trim are essentially glued in place completely. Thanks, Jerry
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:45 PM
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Pliogrip also makes a 'runny' sealer that you would use for drip rails. I've never used it, however the #6 I use worked well in my drip rails on my 67 Mustang. It was a bit tricky to smooth. I don't know how different the drip rails are on your old coupe.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:49 PM
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Lizer: I will check tommorrow to see If this is available locally. The Pliogrip instuctions do not discuss tooling/smoothing technique. Do you have any suggestions. I have cleaned the exterior seams and sanded and will be ready to epoxy prime soon.
These seams are exterior and need to be very smooth/clean.
Thank you, Jerry

Last edited by in2deep; 05-05-2013 at 07:52 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:57 PM
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Here's a piece Brian wrote:

Seam Sealers - Autobodystore

Here's a thread I started

Tips for 2k seam sealer application?

I ended up running tape on both sides of the seam as Brian said to, and as shown in my Mustang pics, and then smoothed the sealer with my finger. After it started to set up I pulled the tape off and left a nice clean seam.

I was wearing a nitrile glove and just kept wiping my finger off to keep a clean, smooth surface.
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