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Old 08-09-2010, 07:21 AM
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Seam Sealer recomendations please.

I have two cars my son and I are in the middle of restoring. A 1969 Firebird convertible and a 1967 Mustang. We need to know which seam sealers you recommend.

I see all types of seam sealers and I assume if we are going to keep these cars awhile and drive them as daily drivers that we may want to consider two part seam sealers. The problem is that I see all types of brands. Some of the ones I see are Norton, 3M, Sem, etc. Each one seems to have their own guns and many times different guns.

So considering cost of gun and sealer and their performance or quality, which brand and guns do you recommend?

FYI: we will probably do more cars after these two.

This decision can be very confusing and is very important in the long term quality of the restoration.

Thanks in advance,

SAM

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Old 08-09-2010, 07:36 AM
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Confusing is not the word for it.

Until about 8 years ago Duramix had the best seam sealers, but Sem passed them up after 3m purchased Duramix.
The Sem seam sealers (two) part whens hands down with Duramix being a close second. My deciesion would be based on the gun deal going.

The Sem bumper repair and panel adhesive, I personally would never use.

You may need two types, Controlled Flow / self leveling and regular non flowing.

Also the best way is to apply over epoxy that has set at least overnight for best long term lasting.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:45 AM
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So I am taking it that your recommending the SEM for my current applications. I will be putting epoxy on the Mustang very soon and I figure we will need both of the types of sealer you stated. I figure the non-flowing for most applications but the self leveling for the drip rail. To be honest, I am not sure where else the self-leveling will be applied???

SAM
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Old 08-09-2010, 12:07 PM
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Barry, how come you would never recomend using the sem seam sealer?
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Old 08-09-2010, 12:16 PM
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I just did the inside of my car. Bought tubes and used a plain cauking gun. The 3m stuff was thick and hard to smear. And the most expensive Didn't care for it. Had a tube of black stuff I got at auto value,I'd have to check the name but it was nice to work with. Smeared easy. I used 3 different kinds on the inside floors and front half of the cowl area. Have not done any one the drip rails or outside body yet
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Old 08-09-2010, 01:40 PM
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Panelwagon62,

I think Barry said to use Sem for seam sealing but not panel adhesives.

I may be wrong but I'll read it again.

Anybody use Fusor or Norton?

Thanks,

SAM
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Old 08-09-2010, 01:44 PM
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Ahhh yeah your right, I read it wrong.
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Old 08-09-2010, 03:39 PM
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The main thing to look for is make sure (whatever brand)
you get one that's a 2-part seam sealer.
It's sooooo much better.
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:22 PM
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In the shop I work at we use Wurth products such as their self leveling and non sag seam sealers. Anyone have some comments or opinions on their stuff?
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:10 PM
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The Seam sealers section of the Rust wiki article may be helpful to you.
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:35 PM
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lord fusor makes a good two part seam sealer. As good as anyones and I've used most brands. They have a white two part that you can put on, use a little lacquer thinner on your finger and flatten the top a little and it looks just like factory.I did a door skin on a pontiac and a state farm adjuster didn't want to pay for it because he said I didn't replace the skin. Had to show him the old door skin before he would ok payment. Said he'd never see a skinned door look that good.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:14 PM
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I use 3m 8308 heavy bodied sealer in the automix tube (two part) awsome product takes a brush very well and can be slicked out with 3m adhesive remover only. also if you are doing complicated seams that must be smooth once cured you can sand it down. I also use 3m ultra pro urathane sealer it is very thick but can also be smoothed out with adhesive remover. i only use this in areas where i need a thicker sealer that is usually not seen. hope this helps. oh yea each of these sealers take a different gun. the 3m automix gun is very handy because of the large amouts of product you can you it for
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Old 08-10-2010, 05:43 AM
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I always epoxy first then seal ...I like 3-m "fast and firm" and I've been using it for years, it fits in my air powered caulk gun ,It holds up very well and is about the least expensive..I use a lot of it it stays a little flexible and can can be painted over ...I use it in drip rails, floors,just about everything except finished painted body seams ,Like the two seams on the filler panel at the back of the rear window on that 69 or where the 1/4 bottom meets the rocker ,then I use drip chek by 3-m ...for that original factory look...
Seam sealers can get very expensive...That original sealer worked pretty well didnt it?I'll bet it was pretty tough to get off. It was NOT a two part sealer so why spend all that extra money on something you dont really need...

"fast & firm" costs around 15.00 a tube and can be easily use in a standard caulk gun or pneumatic gun for bigger jobs.

drip chek is a hand held tube like toothpaste and has been around longer than I have it works very well also...
Just because you buy a special gun for a two part sealer doesnt mean you'll be able to use it again in a couple years. I bought my two part gun for panel glue and a couple months later,when I went back to get more glue they had changed the tubes to fit a new gun and wanted another fifty bucks for the new gun....To say I was mad would be an understatement...
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:16 PM
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I know this is an old post, but I thought Id see if anyone would still check it.

You mentioned using 3m fast and firm. This is what I purchased for my bosses '55 chevy truck I am redoing for him. I used this on a few seams and in the drip rails. The stuff has already started to develope a few splits or cracks. Why is this? I am contemplating on stripping it all out and going back with a two part because of this.
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:53 PM
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I am also using Fast n Firm and am nervous about it because I too see splits and cracks just as the post above stated. The car isn't even done yet, the seam sealer has been on for less than two years.

I don't know if I applied it wrong or not, but I'm going to have to remove some of it I put on. I degreased with wax and grease remover and then applied sealer. In some places it's still intact, but I see cracks as mentioned above in other places.
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