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Old 01-27-2010, 07:23 AM
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Seam Sealing Tips and No No's ?

Guys what are some basics to seam sealing... I will use an example, firewall to floor seam, floor pan to inside rocker, rear wheel well to trunk etc......

How much to apply at what point should it be applied ex, before primer after primer, before paint etc ???

Can you apply too much, how do you smooth it out ?

Is there any tutorials on this site about this ?

thanks,

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Old 01-27-2010, 09:21 AM
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Here's a "Basics of Basics" on Seam Sealers Click here

Brian
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Old 01-27-2010, 03:04 PM
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Also see the "seam sealers" section of the wiki Rust article, which includes a list of links to seam sealer products.
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:41 PM
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Also, it depends on what you are seam sealing and what car you are seam sealing. If it's a new car, Brians article is dead on...but for an old car, they got a little carried away and the seam sealer way back was extremely thick and they didn't care what it looked like. below are some pics of factory seam sealer on a 1962 plymouth. First pic is of the trunk, notice the seamsealer around the wheeltubs to trunk floor. Second is of the floorpan to firewall. Next 2 pics are from a 1969 Charger, all factory.

Mopars were notorious for just piling this stuff on. If you are doing an old car and don't care about doing it back factory, then do it as neat as possible. Just make sure it fills in the gaps 100%.
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Old 01-27-2010, 08:36 PM
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You are absolutly right, if you want it to look like it did in the sixties, you simply spread it out like a friggin mop. I have a 65 Buick, and yes, that is what it looks like.

HOWEVER, if you want it to look better than it did then (don't care about "originality") then picking up the pace and cleaning it up is a way to go. I know on rods I will do a much better job than they did from the factory.

Brian
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Old 01-27-2010, 10:03 PM
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What did the OEM companies use for an applicator/brush to get the thinner but stillsloppy look? specifically on 80s ford trunk and door seams like below. Also, what are the best brands of seam sealer? Do you get what you pay for or does it pretty much all have the same lasting power?





Sorry if it's a threadjack, just some questions I've had for a while but weren't worth starting a new thread for.
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:06 PM
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Thx Jon that is exactly what I have a 65 Plymouth with the wide black/grey seams.... I think I will slap it on like that..... can't hurt I would think.... I will just make sure to spread it out half neatly....

Good question johnunit on the door seams....... I assume like Brians article you would apply a brand of your choice after primer and keep it half neat but most importantly 100% coverage of your seam.... and maybe tape it off for neatness ?

What are those two panel seams called again like in the door picture? or firewall to floor where you have two edges coming on top of each other ?
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:24 AM
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To smooth it out a little I cut the bristles of a paint brush about half way to stiffen it up,then dunk the brush in lacquer thinner or reducer and brush it on the fresh seam sealer before it drys to much.a little trial and error will tell you how far you can seal before brushing,you don't want it to dry to much....I apply it on with a caulk gun then spread it on with a bondo squeegee,working it in between the two layers ,it looks just like the factory....On exposed seams that are to be painted there's paintable seam sealer (drip check)by 3-m. That,put over primer, you let it completely dry, reapply,let that dry and use a gray scotch brite with reducer to clean the excess and smooth out to a factory look then A paper shop towel soaked in reducer makes it even smoother ,prime and paint....
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Last edited by deadbodyman; 01-29-2010 at 08:29 AM.
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