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Old 08-31-2010, 11:54 PM
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Seat cover fitment issues/wrinkles

Do I need to take apart and resew new skirt panels??? The front skirt panel fits nice up until the corners, where it is loose. The two side skirt panels have the same problem. I thought about possibly putting more foam underneath the skirts to fill out the wrinkles. What's the magic cure???

I also messed up the top rear corner, see pic, when I had to resew the "flap" that wraps around the back. Looks like I have to make a whole new vinyl panel now. I initially didn't have the flap. It was sewed together as one piece, and fit loose as well. I thought I'd take it apart and add a flap to make it fit better. Was this the correct fix? Does anyone have a pic of that "flap" back corner?

So frustrated . . .

Dan, recognize that package on the back bench? Laminated deck pad and it worked wonderfully on this seat.










Other than a few setbacks, it is s l o w l y coming along.


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Last edited by Elleka; 08-31-2010 at 11:56 PM. Reason: title
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:47 AM
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A quick cure for minor wrinkles is to wet the backside of the area with water. Then heat the front side with a hair dryer type heater. The wrinkle will disappear
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:17 AM
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No offense to you, BOBCRMAN, but I'm a firm believer that if there are wrinkles there is a root cause that needs to be dealt with. My point is that if you rely on the heat gun you aren't learning the correct way to sew the seat and attach the seat, which should be the main focus of someone just starting out. The heat gun should be an absolute last resort. Even if you use a heat gun, you wouldn't need to wet the vinyl on the back.

I'm curious why your listing shows all the way around the bottom. Are you sure you just don't need to pull it down an inch tighter? Your solution with the flap is O.K. if it's not going to leave a gap between the seat bottom and the seat back. I'm glad the deck skin worked out for you. It looks like you did a good job with the seat top, those round corners on the inserts are not easy to do.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:17 AM
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Dan, thank you for the compliment on the top. Those curves were very difficult. The "tabs" (where the listing is hog ringed) are almost at the edge of the bottom frame. See pic. The listing wire can't be pulled any further back unless I opted to attach it to the bottom of the springs instead, and I didn't make it long enough to wrap that far underneath. BTW, do I have to use a listing wire? Can I hog ring the vinyl directly to the tabs without it? I suppose the wire spreads out the tension along the edge so it strengthens it somewhat. The "looseness" is actually side to side on the skirt corners. I can pinch the corners together a good inch at the bottom. I really don't want to pull it off a THIRD time to alter the corners, but it looks like that's what I have to do.

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Old 09-01-2010, 11:21 AM
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The wire keeps the hog rings from ripping the listings, so it would be a good idea to have one in there, or use listing with cord already sewn in.

That seat cover in the picture is not an original to the car is it?
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:30 AM
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No, it's not the original cover. Wish I had an original cover to pattern my seats, or at least detailed photos of the corners. Do you buy those listings with the wire already sewn in, or make them yourself?
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Old 09-01-2010, 12:51 PM
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It is pre-made out of Typar. It doesn't have wire in it, it is a soft cord but it's enough to hold a hog ring with no problem. It comes in different widths, and I buy it by the roll, which is 100 yards.
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