secondary plate to metering block converssion help - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 11:57 AM
Augusto's Avatar
From the middle of the world
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ecuador, South America
Age: 51
Posts: 1,312
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
secondary plate to metering block converssion help

is it possible to bolt on the rear of a 4160 a front metering block instead of the metering plate?

I know there are kits to make this conversion but I have 2 spare primary blocks.

I guess I would have to plug the power valve passages and possibly the idle mixture circuits as well.

Am I right?

thanks

Augusto

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 12:22 PM
King of my Man-cave.
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Michigan
Age: 55
Posts: 2,899
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts
You needn't plug anything up. If the baseplate is drilled for the vacuum source for the power valve, you can use one there also. If it is not drillled, you can drill it for use with the power valve, or you can leave it and use a power valve plug. Or, just use a power valve plug in any case. Otherwise, there is nothing else to do. You will need to use jets that are appropriate in size.

tom

Last edited by machine shop tom; 12-23-2008 at 12:56 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 12:44 PM
Augusto's Avatar
From the middle of the world
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ecuador, South America
Age: 51
Posts: 1,312
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
thankx Tom,

how about the idle mixture screws?

Augusto.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 01:02 PM
King of my Man-cave.
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Michigan
Age: 55
Posts: 2,899
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 15 Times in 12 Posts
Just screw them in all the way.

tom
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 01:50 PM
tubbedz's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 120
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
If I remember correctly, I performed this in the past on a Holley 1850-4 (4160-style) 600cfm vac secondary. If you are doing this conversion to create a 4-corner idle system, you will need to modify the idle passage in the base plate and drill the carb body. If this is not done, the mixture screws may need to be screwed all the way in and have no real function. Pick up this book: Holley Carburetors (S-a Design) (Paperback) by Dave Emanuel (Author). This book will tell you the proper way to do it. Also once your carburetor is modified, you may or may not notice a little stumble when the secondaries kick in as their is no secondary squirter on a vacuum secondary carb. If you can't find the book I can post pics on the modification for everyone.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 02:12 PM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,153
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 380 Times in 374 Posts
You can also modify the holley secondary metering plate to accept standard screw in Holley main jets. You need a 1/4" -32 thread tap.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 06:51 PM
Augusto's Avatar
From the middle of the world
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ecuador, South America
Age: 51
Posts: 1,312
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tubbedz
If I remember correctly, I performed this in the past on a Holley 1850-4 (4160-style) 600cfm vac secondary. If you are doing this conversion to create a 4-corner idle system, you will need to modify the idle passage in the base plate and drill the carb body. If this is not done, the mixture screws may need to be screwed all the way in and have no real function. Pick up this book: Holley Carburetors (S-a Design) (Paperback) by Dave Emanuel (Author). This book will tell you the proper way to do it. Also once your carburetor is modified, you may or may not notice a little stumble when the secondaries kick in as their is no secondary squirter on a vacuum secondary carb. If you can't find the book I can post pics on the modification for everyone.
please post the pics because it will be very hard to find the book in this lands.

thanks.

Augusto.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 06:53 PM
Augusto's Avatar
From the middle of the world
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ecuador, South America
Age: 51
Posts: 1,312
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
You can also modify the holley secondary metering plate to accept standard screw in Holley main jets. You need a 1/4" -32 thread tap.
where should I drill and tap the plate? can you post a pic of it, sounds like a lot easier.

thanks

Augusto.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 07:09 PM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,153
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 380 Times in 374 Posts
Drill and tap the plate down low so the jets face rear at about the same level as they would sit on a holley sec metering block and connect with the main jet oriffice passages as seen from the other side of the plate. Then block off the two jet orifices on the bottom of the metering plate Arrows.

Drill and tap the new jet holes anywhere in the blue area is going to work for you. Not hard to figure out.

You could even save yourself the bother of tappin the hole by just drilling a pair of holes so the jet threads just slips into the hole snug. Then Bond the jets into the hole using Seal All.

http://www.biosafe-inc.com/sealall.htm
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm
Let the seal all cure overnight. gasoline doesn't bother this stuff.
repairs "sunk" carb floats too. You'll find many many uses for this stuff.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	meteringplate1g.JPG
Views:	2279
Size:	49.8 KB
ID:	35158   Click image for larger version

Name:	meteringplate22a.jpg
Views:	833
Size:	77.0 KB
ID:	35159  

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 12-23-2008 at 07:50 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2008, 08:53 PM
Augusto's Avatar
From the middle of the world
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ecuador, South America
Age: 51
Posts: 1,312
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks a lot man, this is a very good advise and pretty easy to do, I preffer to drill and tap so I can change the jets according to what's needed.

this sealall stuff looks quite good, I hope it is available down here I'm gonna look for it.

Merry Christmas

Have a great holiday.

Augusto.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2008, 01:12 AM
tubbedz's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 120
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Augusto, I hope you're not in a rush. I will post the 4-corner idle modification and pics/diagrams in a couple of days as I need to dig up the old books from storage.
Its a simple mod that converts a vac sec carb to give you two more idle screws to fiddle with. Tubbedz
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2008, 11:08 AM
Augusto's Avatar
From the middle of the world
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ecuador, South America
Age: 51
Posts: 1,312
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I'll wait, thanks a lot,

I appreciate your concern

Augusto
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2008, 11:36 AM
F-BIRD'88's Avatar
Yada Yada Yada
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 9,153
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 5
Thanked 380 Times in 374 Posts
Which carb are you working with? (List number?)
Do you have a 7/32" drill bit? If you drill the holes this size you may/should be able to tap the threads in the hole using the holley main jet it self, as a tap.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 12-24-2008 at 11:47 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2008, 05:21 PM
Augusto's Avatar
From the middle of the world
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Ecuador, South America
Age: 51
Posts: 1,312
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
it's a generic 1850, 600 cfm, vac sec.

no problem about machining the plate I have a full machine shop, the only tool I don't have and I really wish I had is a bridgeport mill, someday I'll treat myself.

Augusto.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2008, 10:10 PM
tubbedz's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 120
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How to 4-corner idle your Holley

Augusto, here it is, I will try to be as thorough as possible.

The following is how to modify your Holley carb so that you can have a 4-corner idle carb. This is assuming you are installing a secondary metering block with idle screws already installed. I will separate the mod into two sections. First, the throttle plate and second, the carb body.

I am in no way responsible for any errors that you or anyone have caused when this modification is done to your carburetor. I have performed this procedure many times and am not responsible if you are new, an expert, or an amateur and performed the procedure wrongly. If you do not understand, buy a Holley carburetor book. All the Holley books describe this modification.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Which chevy block to start with? Midlife Crisis Engine 11 01-19-2009 06:45 PM
holley metering block won't adjust 59 f-100 Engine 2 09-11-2008 04:54 AM
small block vs big block JUSTINH Engine 28 02-17-2003 04:37 PM
Torque Plate Hone TurboS10 Engine 12 12-28-2002 03:13 PM
Small Block 400ci...or...Big Block 396ci???? chevyelc81 Engine 17 10-05-2002 07:06 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:52 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.