Thats pretty good.You snivelers come out slammin me for what I use on MY car,somebody asks what am I using and I tell him.Im not holding a gun to ANYBODYS head tellin him what to use,thats his option,if he want to burn the frikin thing to the ground,so be it.KEEP THE NEGATIVE COMMENTS TO YOURSELF.

well............. that should clear up the battery acid question.

If you are still here I don't think anyone told you not to use it on your own car just gave you good reasons why not. Do you honestly believe you have stumbled onto something no one has thought of yet? Sulfuric acid has been around for eons and it's proprieties are well known so if it worked ok why is it not commonly used? It is about as cheap to produce as water so why do the rust preparations not use sulfuric acid instead of phosphoric? The answer is that this a perfect example of the cure being worse than the disease. Sulfuric acid is not used in auto metal prep solutions for a damn good reason and there would be such a huge market for a product that works as good as you think this stuff does that it certainly would be used if it were a good idea but the industrial chemists know better. Go ahead and use all you want on your car with your childish attitude you deserve what you will most assuredly get.

Hopefully the advise of the people that know, will be followed. It always amazes me how one person will come up with this kind of bad advise, and try to get everyone to follow it.

Z51, if you want to use it on your cars, go for it. If you valued your vehicles, you wouldn't do it, but that is your choice. Since you are obviously one of those that thinks you know everything, and are so much smarter than everyone else, you cannot be told anything. Atleast let the other people that are looking for good advise, get that, and not your bad ideas. People are looking for advise that will give as permanant repairs as possible, not something that will come back worse later.

As was pointed out, Randy Ferguson is very much a professional metal master. He knows more about how metal works than most of us could even dream of ever knowing. If that was a good idea, and would work with no bad consequences, he would have passed that information on. His post was not an accident.

Aaron

all one has to do is take one look at the battery tray of a car. if anyone has doubts about the result i suggest you do a little research on the subject. in 35 years in the craft i nor anyone i know has used battery acid to clean metal. it simply is not done. auto makers have tried everything possible to stop it and failed. i doubt you will find any professional in the auto refinishing or metal fad industries that will recommend this.

Shine, I have pointed out before that I do not claim to be an auto body expert but I have fought the battery acid problem for years on mining equipment. Battery acid is an insidious destroyer of iron in any form and I can tell you from experience that once the metal is contaminated the process can be nearly impossible to stop. I have seen 1/4" plate completely destroyed after acid exposure even after taking steps to neutralize it, think what it could do to a body panel! The biggest mistake I saw with Z51's post was when he said "once it dries out it stops working", that simply is not true. The damage from the acid may be slowed down considerably by being separated from Oxygen/moisture by painting but it is by no means stopped. It is all but impossible to forever completely seal a surface from 100% of the elements and that crap is lying in wait for the time to become active again. To anyone who may think battery acid does work ok I want to ask again why is it NOT already being used by the auto body chemical companies? Why is it NOT already being used by the makers of Naval jelly? Why is it NOT used by nearly all body workers? (by none that know better). This stuff has been around for so long and is so cheap to produce that if it was ok to use it would have become the standard for rust removal years ago but it is NOT the standard way and is in fact almost never used, WHY not? I think most people here know better and if someone still chooses to use battery acid they can't say they were not warned but as I said before even if it seems to work ok for a while it is a latent monster that most certainly will come up to bite you sooner or later, probably sooner.

this falls in the same category as using play sand to blast with oldred. somebody did it once so it must be right. it does no good to warn about these hazards. we'll just end up getting chewed on for being a know it all. not the first time on this board. i have even posted links to the warnings before but they know better than the experts who test and research all this stuff. i just hope no one takes the bad advise and gets burned but you cant protect people from themselves i guess.

Think this guy needs a tissue? Tell ya what,Ill buy you a box and you can split it with oldred.Never once did I confess to be a -KNOW IT ALL- and never once did I say hey,what Im using for rust removal is the best fix nor did I tell anybody they should use it.Theres no reason to get your panties in a bunch here.If you want to throw slurs,feel free to send me an email.Z51MO@aol.com.I love a good pissing contest.

Shine... you sure got that right! You have people come here and post all kinds of ideas, and new people want to believe them. Everyone is looking for a quick, easy fix. One problem with these boards is that there is so much information, that new people will only ready the latest, and not search the history. They then go and try what they read, and pay for it later.

Aaron

Z51, No sense in getting into a shouting match if you would take an honest look at what you are doing and check out the real info on what battery acid does to iron instead of just "I did it and it works" you might be shocked at what you will find. Even though this had been discussed here and in other threads and good reasons given for not doing this you came in and just said "mix battery acid with the solution" without giving any reasons why you disagreed with what had already been pointed out, so what kind of response did you expect? You yourself said that you simply came up with the idea of trying this stuff and you never said you did any research at all about the long term consequences which are well known to most people but which you choose to ignore. Have you any answer at all for why this stuff is not commonly used? Think about it, there must be some reason besides it not being discovered yet. Are you really disagreeing honestly or could it be that you are trying to justify to yourself a mistake you have made? I am not trying to be a smart@## it is just that you are insisting that well known chemical properties of battery acid be ignored and that kind of dangerous misinformation is bound to bring a negative response. Insults will not make your point so why don't you give us a good reason why this stuff is ok, if you can.

It's obvious this thread has pretty much run it's course. Any more ragging on each other and I'll lock it permanently.

I am trying to surface rust from my gas tank. I let the car sit for a while and now the tank iss filled with sediment and surface rust. I removed the tank but I can't really get in there and scrub it (the opening is very small), I was hoping some chemical could clean it out. Any ideas how I could do this other than just loading it with naval jelly and rinsing it over and over?

I guess that product called "acid rinse" (page 4 of this thread) would work best? Or some combination of diluted phosphoric acid?

Gas tanks should be replaced when they rust like that if they are available to buy new.

What kind of car?

Any of the companies that make a a gas tank rust removal kit, and just other people suggest putting a small piece chain(real chain not picture chain) or some rocks in the tank and shake the tank to remove the rust. You do this with your rust remover in your tank at this same time. You will need help to shake, flip the tank if it is any size.

You can get some radatior shops to remove the rust and repair the tank if needed too.

I used Metal Rehab in Arlington Texas. They dipped the 32 5W coup body in citric acid, washed, dried and primed. Worked great. No rust, no bleading of fluid afterwards and no sand left in hard to get to places.

Shortload