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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2011, 08:00 PM
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10% Ethanol won't hurt aluminum lines, but in your case I'd use steel lines. If you want to run it inside a boxed frame, just run it inside a rubber tube or hose, etc.

But you could just run it on the outside of the inside frame wall, holding it down with insulated adel clamps and self drilling hex-head screws. If you need to go buy some hot headers, look into something like this, it works well.

From the pump to the carb, I like stainless braided line and all AN fittings.
As stated by some one else, if you put a filter after the tank, use a valve up stream.

Good luck.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2011, 12:37 AM
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I filled the tank with high-test ... $100 did it.


AutoZone has the fuel pump I need in stock ($20) and a 25-foot roll of steel fuel line ($25) ... I'll be at it today.

Alan
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:23 PM
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fuel pump and fuel line

Quote:
Originally Posted by horvath
I filled the tank with high-test ... $100 did it.


AutoZone has the fuel pump I need in stock ($20) and a 25-foot roll of steel fuel line ($25) ... I'll be at it today.

Alan
What about the filter, the shut off, and Do you have a tube cutter, and double flare tool?

Bob
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Old 03-29-2011, 01:02 PM
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Thanks, Bob.

I have the tube cutter, the double flare tool, and the tube bender ... but it looks like I need a deburr tool and a chamfer tool; I tried to flare the steel tube without deburring or chamfering it and (like the instructions say) it didn't work -- it just pushed the steel down (and I had it clamped as tight as possible).

I still have tomorrow and Thursday to do the job ... great weather both days. I spent most of my day today, shopping for everything.

PS: I'm not sure what you mean about the filter and the shut off. I'm not going to put a gas filter back by the tank ... it's a brand new gas tank and, when I'm done, I'll have all new lines and fuel pump -- so I don't see it as necessary.

Alan
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Old 03-29-2011, 01:25 PM
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fuel pump and line

Quote:
Originally Posted by horvath
Thanks, Bob.

I have the tube cutter, the double flare tool, and the tube bender ... but it looks like I need a deburr tool and a chamfer tool; I tried to flare the steel tube without deburring or chamfering it and (like the instructions say) it didn't work -- it just pushed the steel down (and I had it clamped as tight as possible).

I still have tomorrow and Thursday to do the job ... great weather both days. I spent most of my day today, shopping for everything.

PS: I'm not sure what you mean about the filter and the shut off. I'm not going to put a gas filter back by the tank ... it's a brand new gas tank and, when I'm done, I'll have all new lines and fuel pump -- so I don't see it as necessary.

Alan
If you have a cutter bigger than those that are for tight places it should have a deburring knife on it. If you want to make a good deburring tool, take a three sided file, take a fine grinding wheel grind the teeth off of file, grind it to a point, without taking too much off, put three Sharpe corners on it a wooden handle and you have a deburring tool, I made mine 40 years ago and have not had to sharpen it once. If you don't want to go though all that a knife will work.

I thought you were going to put a filter on it, you know just because it's new doesn't mean there isn't junk in the tank. Every time you fill up after the big truck has filled the service stations tanks it kick up junk. You don't put the filter on because the tanks new you put it on because there is dirt in the gas.

Bob
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:12 PM
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Thanks, Bob.

I do have a deburring tool on a larger cutter I have -- I forgot about that.

What about the chamferring part of it ... is that important? Does it make flairing the tube easier?

PS: So far I'm not able to flair the steel tube. It just gets pushed straight down through the clamp/device. What am I doing wrong? It **must** need to be chamfered ... right?

Alan

Last edited by horvath; 03-29-2011 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:34 PM
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fuel pumps and fuel lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by horvath
Thanks, Bob.

I do have a deburring tool on a larger cutter I have -- I forgot about that.

What about the chamferring part of it ... is that important? Does it make flairing the tube easier?

PS: So far I'm not able to flair the steel tube. It just gets pushed straight down through the clamp/device. What am I doing wrong? It **must** need to be chamfered ... right?

Alan
Alan,

The flaring tool you have on the cutter will give you enough chamfer, just push hard.

Now make sure you don't have too much sticking up, what I do is when the tube pushes back I take a rod, screw driver, whatever and tighten the clamp down with that, most of them don't hold real well. try that it should work for you, and you can see if the burr is there or not.

Bob
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2011, 04:03 PM
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Thanks, Bob.

Man, I cranked it down with a wrench. It wouldn't go any tighter ... but the rod still slips.

I've never done this before ... and I only have one fitting that needs to be flared. I guess I'm not deburring it enough, eh?

PS: What's the difference between deburring and chamfurring?

Alan
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:41 PM
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fuel pumps and fuel lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by horvath
Thanks, Bob.

Man, I cranked it down with a wrench. It wouldn't go any tighter ... but the rod still slips.

I've never done this before ... and I only have one fitting that needs to be flared. I guess I'm not deburring it enough, eh?

PS: What's the difference between deburring and chamfurring?

Alan
deburring is when you cut metal you can leave a very fine piece of metal on the end at the spot where your tool last touched the metal, in other words it is so thin it breaks off, so you take a deburring tool and run it around the inside of the tube to get rid of that tiny piece of metal. a chamfer is when you bevel the end of the tube or on a solid piece of metal you put a angle on the outside edge.

Now are you sure you have the tube in the right size, or you don't have metric tube, or a metric flare, if you get it so both side of the flare are touching, it should not slip.

Bob

The burr or the chamfer, should not have anything to do with it slipping.
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:55 PM
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Thanks again, Bob. I appreciate your time, Brother!

No ... I have 3/8" tubing and it's in the 3/8" slot. It's cut square and there are no burrs, but the outside edge is *not* tapered -- is that the problem?

Alan
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2011, 05:08 PM
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I just flared the tubing effortlessly, by skipping the first part that makes the tubing bell shaped and going right to the anvil (step 2).

The tubing didn't slip and the anvil flared the end nicely.

Could I do it that way? Or does it have to be folded over, using both steps of getting the bell shape first and then flaring that?

Alan
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2011, 08:46 PM
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You don't need to double flare anything except brake lines. Deburr the inside of the tube before you try to flare. The tubing clamp needs to be tightened down till there is no gap between the two halves.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:02 PM
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fuel pump and fuel line

Quote:
Originally Posted by horvath
I just flared the tubing effortlessly, by skipping the first part that makes the tubing bell shaped and going right to the anvil (step 2).

The tubing didn't slip and the anvil flared the end nicely.

Could I do it that way? Or does it have to be folded over, using both steps of getting the bell shape first and then flaring that?

Alan
Alan, you are good, Like Overdriv said you only need that single flare. Brake lines you need the double. just check each one after you get gas in it to make sure it's not leaking a little and you should be good to go.

as far as outside tapered that is for a solid rod to deburr it just forget that as it was an example.

Bob

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Old 03-30-2011, 02:13 AM
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HalleluYah!

I'm good to go!

THANKS.

Alan
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:47 AM
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