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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 04:25 PM
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What do you guys think about this for a drill press:
http://woodworking.jettools.com/Prod...94&Part=354171

It is under woodworking at jettools.com, is there a problem with using it with metal? Reason being because it's normally $350 or so, on sale for $259 at menards.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 04:46 PM
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That is similar to what I have and mine does what I need it to do...and the price on that one is a good price..

Sam
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2007, 05:17 PM
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I have a JD2 bender and it works great. I have had it about 15 years. If you are planning on building more than one cage I would go with one of these with the hydraulic cyl on it. It can take a lot to bend all those parts for a complete car. You probably won't need more that 2 or 3 different dies. If you start doing jobs for other people then you can buy more dies as the money comes in.

http://www.jd2.com/
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
That is similar to what I have and mine does what I need it to do...and the price on that one is a good price..

Sam
What kind of work do you do? I am going to be drilling through some heavy guage steel. I noticed it had 3/4HP and a lot of steel drill presses through jet were at least 1.5HP. I wonder if that 's the reason.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 71gtx
What kind of work do you do? I am going to be drilling through some heavy guage steel. I noticed it had 3/4HP and a lot of steel drill presses through jet were at least 1.5HP. I wonder if that 's the reason.
The 1.5 HP is a production machine as far as I know..I have drilled 3/4 holes in 2" bar stock with mine as well as ran some 3 1/2 hole saws thru 3/16 metal..just be careful to use sharp tools lots of cutting oil and light feed pressure and let the tool do the cutting..Works for me..

Sam
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2007, 12:50 PM
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71-

I have a fully equipped shop, and honestly, I dont think I utilize 10% of it to its fullest capacity. I would hazzard a guess that maybe 1% of the guys with the tools use them effectively. (here comes the flame throwers...)

Here are the "must haves" for what you are doing. And doing it from the cheap seats (low $$ budget)

1.) 4" H-F grinder $9.99 on sale. BUY TWO!! Set one up for cutting, one for
grinding. (You'll graduate to flapwheels, and hit Nirvanna!)
2.) GOOD Variable speed REVERSABLE electric drill. Yeah, yeah, battery drills
are great, but they dont have the guts to keep up with you. I have a 18v
DeWalt, and it still wont keep up with a junk $20 electric drill. Air drills
are worthless, IMO.
3.) Rigid framed hacksaw. Again, from the low buck, but they work. For
$20.00, best money spent. Next best is a METAL CUTTING vertical. Jet
or even from Graingers, the Daytons.
They work awesome. Those $100 horiontals are junk IMO, and need
constant tuning to get square cuts. Most guys use it like a cut off saw.
Use a hacksaw, if thats all you use it for. Or an abrasive wheel chop
saw. Horrible Fright makes a circular saw for metal. That works
AWESOME, and goes on sale for $69. Its worth 3x what the bandsaw is.
Too bad they cant adapt that to a cutoff saw. Clean cuts.
4.) Tubing Bender: Dude, the cash you save here, you can put you through
the next semester. Make a posterboard template. Take it to your local
stock car fabricator. There are tons of them out there. If you bring the
tubing, most times the guys will do it for a case of beer. The template
assures the fit. You wont have to go any further, to find out of it works.
PLUS, the guy already blew through HIS tubing to learn the bend radius,
waste, etc., let alone keeping 2 opposing bends on the same plane. At
$3.50+/- per foot of 1.625 x .134 EWS Roll bar tubing, you dont want to
waste the extra cash. You will find that paper templates are PROBABLY
the BEST tool you can have in your shop.
5.) Old seaming pliers. If you need to do ANY tinwork, these are irreplaceable,
and you can get them for next to nothing. They come up to 24" wide,
and will turn a flange in seconds. I've seen them on EBAY with no bids
many times. The old roofers used to use them.


Dont get wrapped up in the tool you think you need. Use what you HAVE(That would be that mush under your ball cap). You will find that by using your mind, instead of your wallet, there is alot less useless "junk" sitting around doing nothing.

And being in college, buy the absolute BEST tool you can afford when buying. Its cheaper in the long run. You only will but it once.


Side note: On Metalmeet.com, there is a fellow from Pakistan, named Ersahnni(sp?). Absolutely incredible what he produces with a broken claw hammer, hacksaw BLADE. A broken file, broken drill bits, and general stuff you would find in the trash. He uses his FEET for a vice to hold his work. I'd love to see him in a decent shop.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2013, 02:29 AM
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I've taken a gander at some in stores yet am not certain what sort of HP or amps or whatever possible evaluations that will be sufficient for metal meeting expectations....
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2013, 10:16 AM
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plasma info

If you buy a plasma you NEED DRY AIR. My 5 hp verticle air compressor has an automatic drain, but a little bit of moisture did $ 100 damage to the tips in about 2 seconds. someone posted how to take an old propane bottle and fill it with kitty litter for the first stage moisture trap. I have the fittings on one but have been too busy on the farm and trying to get the retirement home we are building ready for winter.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 11-09-2013, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
someone posted how to take an old propane bottle and fill it with kitty litter for the first stage moisture trap.

Here's something similar that is used for the final moistute trap.
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